50 posts tagged "Paris Fashion Week"
Lashes and cornrows—two of the trends we’ve seen time and again this season—were taken to breathtaking extremes backstage. One could say that pushing things to the max was a signature of the late Alexander McQueen: “This was something Alexander really liked—it feels like a classic code of the house,” said Guido Palau. The never-ending plait dreamed up by the mane master and executed by a team of braiders was no doubt “severe,” but the long, flowing extensions that caught the wind on the runway gave the “silhouette a certain softness.”
“It’s futurism mixed with nature,” Pat McGrath said of the two gasp-inducing looks she devised for the show. “We decided to do the owl world in a punk eye makeup way.” Black spiky feathers hand cut and designed by the face painter were painstakingly glued one by one onto the brows and top lashes. “When would I ever make it easy?” she quipped of the dramatic maquillage that took nearly four and a half hours to complete. Her second creation (worn by the majority of the models) played with shading and light in lieu of plumes—using brick red, silver, and gold metallic pigments to lend a “futuristic” feeling to the face. The end result not only incited a frenzy of flashes from photographers (particularly around the catwalkers with those phenomenal “mothlike” eyes), but also perfectly captured the “McQueen world of innocence, romance, and darkness” with a sensitivity and boldness that won’t soon be forgotten.
“We wanted to do something that wasn’t classic or as normal as a braid or pony, so I added another dimension to the Valentino woman,” said Guido Palau of the superlong tails (26 inches, to be exact) that cascaded down models’ spines. The “dimension” came by way of “little balls or bubbles” that were tied off with black elastic—”a very sort of seventies, late sixties kind of idea,” he noted. The strict center part, slight height at the crown, and hair pulled over the ears—all quintessential beauty signatures of the house—remained.
Face painter Pat McGrath played with light and shading again this season (using a pale powder on the outside of the cheeks and a pearly highlighter above the Cupid’s bow), but added a touch of “eccentricity” with a gray-blue liner on the top and bottom lash lines. Judging by the end result, a dash of whimsy was the perfect way to up the ante on the label’s no-fail hair and makeup recipe.
From double-C branded ketchup to white rubber dish gloves adorned with black camellia flowers, the aisles of the Chanel supermarché were abundant with color. The angular wings sketched onto the outer corners of the eyes reflected not only the range of shades in the collection (including pink, orange, green, and marine blue), but the bottles of fizzy, neon-hued “Tweed Bubble” soda lined up on shelves and ultra-ripe produce piled in the center of the set. The silver shadow base, however, played off the leather-and-chain-link shopping baskets that only this particular French grocery would have on hand.
The ponytails crafted by Sam McKnight were “blown up in proportion” and “exaggerated” courtesy of tweed rags, lace, and pearls that were braided and woven into crimped extensions. (Before being wrapped around the base of the pony, the faux strands were prepped with a combo of Fudge Salt Spray and Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray.) The motley mix of textures in back (somewhat reminiscent of dreadlocks) contrasted with the sharp and smooth center parts at the front. If filling my fridge and pantry was always such a feast for the eyes, I might be tempted to skip Fresh Direct and stock up in person.
Cuticle tattoos recently hit the mass market and the general public has fully embraced the midi ring concept (Chanel clipped glittery stacks around models’ fingers for Fall 2013 Couture). Backstage early this morning before Chanel’s supermarché-themed show, however, catwalker Ming Xi gave her Instagram followers a pound—the front of her fist stamped with Kawaii-style characters, designs, and thought bubbles. While this wasn’t part of the final look—instead, many of the girls sported fingerless gloves or had their hands shoved into jacket pockets—it appears nail art is still moving on up off the runway.
Manicurist Madeline Poole was on hand backstage at Stella McCartney to paint models’ nails with a flesh-colored polish—a task that seems quite simple, but is in fact rather challenging considering that nude does not in fact equate to light beige (a point Christian Louboutin and Clinique recently underscored with collections of shoes and makeup). Choosing a nail lacquer is similar to selecting a foundation in that you need to consider both the opacity and the color, Poole explained. Based upon the state of your nails, you may want to prep with a primer (an opaque formula) and layer it with a “tinted moisturizer” of sorts (a sheer pink). Poole coated fingertips with unique combinations of Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure in Cafe Au Lait, Nude Now, Shell We Dance, and Shore Enough according to each girl’s skin tone. And at $8 a bottle, you can afford to experiment and find your perfect match.