230 posts tagged "Pat McGrath"
“We wanted to do something that wasn’t classic or as normal as a braid or pony, so I added another dimension to the Valentino woman,” said Guido Palau of the superlong tails (26 inches, to be exact) that cascaded down models’ spines. The “dimension” came by way of “little balls or bubbles” that were tied off with black elastic—”a very sort of seventies, late sixties kind of idea,” he noted. The strict center part, slight height at the crown, and hair pulled over the ears—all quintessential beauty signatures of the house—remained.
Face painter Pat McGrath played with light and shading again this season (using a pale powder on the outside of the cheeks and a pearly highlighter above the Cupid’s bow), but added a touch of “eccentricity” with a gray-blue liner on the top and bottom lash lines. Judging by the end result, a dash of whimsy was the perfect way to up the ante on the label’s no-fail hair and makeup recipe.
“We really wanted the girls to look absolutely beautiful, but different,” explained Pat McGrath of the look at Givenchy. The “beautiful” half of the equation was achieved via skin highlighted to a “shimmery perfection,” pinky-peach blush dusted on cheeks, beige shadow washed around the eyes, and white liner run along the inner rims. The “otherworldly and surreal” element came courtesy of bleached brows and square-cut, crimson “face tapes” layered with a “plastic coating” on both temples. A string was secured underneath, pulled taut, and tied at the back of the head—gently tugging models’ faces upward. It was definitely not meant to mimic a facelift, however, McGrath noted when asked. After all, these are teenage girls (at least in the case of Kendall Jenner) we’re talking about. The tape—meant to be seen as a fashion accessory—was very much a “statement of today.” The conjoined pigtail braids by Luigi Murenu were as graphic and interesting as the maquillage and certainly otherworldly in that there is no way on earth you’re going to be able to DIY this double plait.
“I want to give them a look that isn’t a look—that’s Stella’s thing,” said Eugene Souleiman. “It’s like the hair real girls do before they go out and they’re in a rush.” (For the record, my hair has never looked like this when I’m running late.) After Souleiman made a center part, strands were misted with water to revive each girl’s unique and natural texture. The length was then scraped back into a low pony at the nape, the elastic pulled down for a more voluminous, billowy look. Some of the tails were then tucked into the pieces in the collection with high necks or underneath the collar of a jacket. “I don’t want them to look like models, because I think Stella designs beautiful clothes that real people buy,” Souleiman explained of the low-key, wearable style.
Pat McGrath received the same brief but was sure to account for the early morning call time. “It’s about no makeup, but just a little added freshness,” she said. After all, everyone—even those who are genetically blessed—needs a touch of foundation, a wash of taupe around the eyes, brown mascara, and a hint of blush before 9 a.m.
The “one, two, three” braid—it’s a plait hair pro Luigi Murenu has been making a case for this season. We saw a similar look at Emilio Pucci, but here he lost the elastic in favor of a more disheveled, “last moment feeling.” To achieve the dry texture, he worked Kérastase Mousse Bouffante through strands before blowing them dry and employing a curling iron for texture. Then he divided the length into three sections and wove them loosely together near the nape, finishing with a generous amount of hairspray to ensure plenty of hold. Forgoing the band was a feat in and of itself, and the finished product perfectly complemented the designers’ more accessible offerings.
Pat McGrath kept the makeup equally as attainable. Aside from beautiful skin, a slight flush, and “rich” brows, only a gray-brown shadow was washed around the eyes. “It looks like the street in there,” she said of the show space located in the Jardin des Tuileries. “The girls should just look like they are simply walking down the street.”
The always ingenious Pat McGrath dazzled with liquid latex yesterday at Dior, painting models’ lids with shades of brilliant blue and khaki green, then topping them with pigment in glitter. “When we were testing, we were doing it in layers with a hair dryer—mind you, we didn’t have to do it [backstage] because the room was so warm,” she noted. Judging by the trio of images on Hanne Gabbe Odiele’s Instagram, the eye-catching look took far less time to peel off than it did to put on.