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August 2 2014

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229 posts tagged "Pat McGrath"

Pat McGrath, Up Close & Personal

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In addition to their Italian Summertime color collection that just hit shelves at Saks this month, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and their go-to makeup guru, Pat McGrath, have unleashed something else onto fans of the brand this week. That would be The Animalier, a cheetah-print bronzer compact that blends into a gorgeous dark gold finish to give a glow to everything from cheekbones to décolletage. But rather than simply tell you about the chic packaging and perfectly designed powder palette, we got McGrath to show you how it works—on camera and on my face. Click here to watch the backstage regular work some summer sculpting magic with her newest release for the line while giving me perhaps the best bonus tip I’ve ever received: The woman who pioneered my favorite Fall beauty trend—spider lashes—performs a tutorial on the subject with Dolce’s forthcoming Secret Eyes mascara (look out for it in July). Let it be known: I kept that mascara on all day, through a baby shower and a late-afternoon barbecue. Were it not for a freak rainstorm that ruined both my day and my makeup, it would probably still be on my lashes.

The Makeup Queen Cometh

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Our Fall beauty report is officially up and running; if you’ve already perused it you’re aware that red is once again the pout color of the season. When mouths weren’t boyish and bare with nothing but a slick of balm to keep them moisturized, they were more often than not painted in glossy or matte incarnations of the sanguine standout. The few exceptions came at the hands of Pat McGrath. Remember that salmon-hued pout Arizona Muse and co. sported at Nina Ricci? Custom-blended by Pat. Ditto the “high maintenance” burgundy she crafted at Gucci, using a combination of liners and pigments around the lip line and filling in the center with CoverGirl Lip Perfection Lipstick in Hot. Our favorite non-crimson came at Loewe, though, where McGrath minted the chocolate brown lip. “It’s been so long since we’ve seen this color,” she pointed out yesterday when we had the pleasure of talking trends with her. Backstage in Paris, McGrath was too busy getting all of the models precisely pouty to discuss exactly what she was using on their lips, so the big reveal came yesterday. “Javalicious from CoverGirl’s new Queen collection,” McGrath explained. Available in 24 shades, the new range celebrates Queen Latifah’s 10th year as a CoverGirl and includes naturals, plums, roses, mauves, berries, and browns—all designed by McGrath, who serves as global creative design director for the brand. If you decide to experiment with any color other than scarlet this Fall, this one gets our vote.

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com; Courtesy of CoverGirl

Miu Miu’s Mass-Market Beauty Extravaganza

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In a departure from the abundance of sixties tributes we’ve seen this season, Miuccia Prada honed in on the forties at Miu Miu, which closed out Paris fashion week. Her glam squad of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau acted accordingly. “Modern vintage and forties elegance,” is how McGrath described the makeup, which consisted of two looks, one with a bare mouth and the other with a striking, matte red pout courtesy of a precise line of CoverGirl Lip Perfection Lipliner in Passion filled in with a mix of its Lip Perfection Lipstick in Hot—”the essential red shade”—and Eternal, a hot fuchsia. Both lips were complemented by porcelain skin, thanks to a light coverage of CoverGirl Natureluxe Foundation, groomed brows, and what will likely go down as McGrath’s signature for Fall 2011, spider lashes. “It’s an excessive lash,” she said of her heavy-handed application of CoverGirl NatureLuxe Mousse Mascara in Black, which was helped along by a few individual false lashes applied to the center of the top lash line.

Palau also went with his own adaptation of the era, focusing his attention on “a loose, naturally textured half updo,” that was prepped with Redken Wax Blast 10 high Impact Finishing Spray Wax for a piece-y effect and center-parted. The key to the style came from two simple hair combs—Goody hair combs, to be exact—which Palau used to sweep side sections from above models’ ears and secure on the top of their heads. Palau’s penchant for drugstore hair accessories, spotted here, at Prada, and McQueen, is an exciting development as far as getting properly (and affordably) coiffed come September.

Photo: Courtesy of Redken

Pretty Prevails, Backstage At Valentino

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Throughout Guido Palau’s ponytail tour this season, in which he has constructed the easy updo from New York to Paris, the coiffing star has stressed that the beauty of the familiar style is the way you can make it look different by implementing small changes. Said changes have come in the form of sleek severity, texturization, or in the case of Valentino, a girly sixties vibe. “It’s femininity and a nod to the sixties, but not in a retro way. More in reference to Valentino’s heritage,” Palau explained, coating strands in Redken Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel before fashioning middle parts and back-combing hair at the crown for a bit of height. Razor-cutting wispy sideburns (another Palau signature for Fall), he placed black ribbons around models’ heads for an added dose of pretty—a rare word in the wealth of borrowed-from-the-boys homages we’ve seen over the past month.

“She’s a perfect-skinned beauty,” Pat McGrath added of the Valentino woman, whose complexion was given a light base courtesy of CoverGirl’s NatureLuxe foundation. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli “wanted a cool girl—as if she’d done her makeup herself,” McGrath elaborated, dusting a gray/brown “smoke” onto lids and fashioning “perfected lashes” on both the top and bottom lash lines using CoverGirl’s NatureLuxe Mousse Mascara to complete the sixties homage. Spider lashes strike again!

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

At YSL, The Purple Lip That Never Was

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It was stunning. “You’ve really outdone yourself,” we effused of Pat McGrath’s ultraviolet lip when we saw the face painter backstage at Yves Saint Laurent. The pout was so perfectly applied and so utterly vivid, we even brought it up at dinner, calling it one of our favorite looks of the season. But it sadly never saw the light of the runway, as anyone who made it past the highly patrolled entrance at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild and inside the venue is well aware. In its place was a nude moisturized mouth. So, what happened? “The moment you saw it with all the different hair colors, you knew,” McGrath told us when we happened upon her later, explaining that the original makeup test done on Kinga Rajzak included a head wrap, thus leaving the question of whether purple would work when paired with blondes, brunettes, and redheads unanswered (it didn’t). We’ll admit that what remained of McGrath’s original look—the paled-out skin, the taupe-y eye, and the filled-in brows—registered better on their own; a graphic statement lip would have come across as theatrical and out of place with Stefano Pilati’s controlled Fall collection. But trust us, dear readers, when we tell you that in matters of makeup artistry, it was truly something to behold.


As for Guido Palau’s side-swept, “little boy” knots, they stayed in the picture from beginning to end. “It’s almost Twiggy-feeling,” the hairstylist said of the extra-deep parts prepped with Redken Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel and sprayed for hold with its Forceful 23 Hairspray. The masculine bit came in the form of sideburns, which Palau razor-trimmed on site from wisps above model’s ears, molding with an added bit of hair spray. “It doesn’t always have to be a huge statement,” Palau surmised of the simple coif—a commentary that was particularly apropos to the makeup miscalculation. “It’s the little things that give the big kind of chicness.”

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com