65 posts tagged "Paul Hanlon"
Subtle—it’s a word we’ve often heard backstage at Narciso Rodriguez, and this season was no different. Inspired by an iridescent, gray-green paillette on a slipdress from the collection, makeup pro Dick Page added a flash of sheer pink or mint from the forthcoming Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Static to the inner corners and lightly along the upper and lower lash lines. “The interference pigments in the green reflect gold, and for the pink, they reflect red-violet,” he explained. Arches were filled in and lips were topped off with Lacquer Rouge in Viola, a rose-brown. “There are a lot of really bold color choices in the collection—I would have been happy to swipe one of those for the face—but it just seemed to make more sense with what we’re doing to keep it open and transparent.”
To create the “controlled” but not “board-like” hair, Paul Hanlon saturated the roots with CHI Volume Booster and the mid-lengths and ends with Silk Infusion, then blew them dry with a round brush. A flatiron was glided through to smooth out any kinks before a hairspray was misted section by section across the crown and brushed through with a bristle brush to form a “graphic line around the hairline,” Hanlon explained of the sleek, center-parted strands. The length was then tucked behind the ears before a wax was glossed over the surface for shine. “The formality of the hair and the brow gives the face the structure—the rest is just decoration,” Page said of the finished product.
“When I saw the collection, it reminded me very much of who I was as a teenager,” said makeup artist Francelle Daly. Apparently, the face painter had Siouxsie & The Banshees, Nina Hagen, and Culture Club on repeat, as those were her references for the look at today’s show. Daly focused mainly on creating a squared-off eyebrow—taking the shape straight across and lending a bit of a curve to keep arches less “robotic” and more “feminine.” Lids were left naked, lashes were curled and coated with NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara, and a combo of Nico and Zen blush was lightly dusted in the contours of the cheeks with a powder brush. Nails were painted with Crossroads, an eggplant-like lacquer from the designer’s forthcoming polish collection with the beauty brand.
For hair pro Paul Hanlon, Bryan Ferry and David Bowie acted as inspirations, along with eighties Esprit catalogs and photos taken by Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber. Fellow stylist Didier Malige was also on Hanlon’s mind. “I’m a big fan of him,” he said. Hanlon began by working Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse through the mid-lengths and ends, and misted Root Boost in front before blow-drying. A generous amount of oil was used all over for separation and a “sweaty” effect. “I put a lot on the roots so that you see the comb marks,” he explained. A thicker curl cream was applied to the top section in order to mold the hair back off the face before it was pinned and fixed in place with strong-hold hairspray. “It’s what they used to do [in the eighties], but completely deconstructed,” Hanlon said. I think we can all agree that a literal interpretation of this particular era wasn’t missed.
The inspiration for Prabal Gurung’s collection started in Mustang, a “secluded kingdom” high in the Himalayas in Nepal where the designer went trekking during a visit home. “What I really loved about the whole place was the incredible colors and incredible way of dressing—it’s almost like sportswear, because they have to layer everything,” he explained. The spirit of Gurung’s woman, however, remains the same season after season, no matter where his travels take him: “It’s a femininity with bite,” he said. For Fall 2014 he moved away from the formaldehyde-dipped strands and neo-pastel pouts created for Spring, and opted for “great skin,” “beautiful hair,” and “tactile clothes.” That element of strength key to his aesthetic comes courtesy of “natural femininity and natural beauty.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept with the spirit of the clothes by using MAC Cosmetics Face and Body foundation to even models complexions, forgoing powder to create a dewy finish. Just the apples were flushed with a ruddy-colored cream blush, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate was dabbed along the tops of the cheekbones and across the center of the lids to highlight. Eye Kohl in Fascinating (a white pencil) was used on the lower waterlines to brighten, while Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut was used to contour the crease and hollows of the cheeks. Brows were brushed up, filled in with a corresponding shadow (like Omega, Bark, or Concrete) and set with wax for a “bushy” finish. To tone down any redness in the lips, Kendal applied a touch of foundation to models’ mouths.
Manicurist Jin Soon also focused on simplicity, using two of the three forthcoming Sally Hansen nail lacquers in the designer’s limited-edition polish line out in September: Himalaya (a nude) and Rupee Red (a bold burgundy). The majority of girls received clean, sand-colored paint jobs, while five had a straight, vertical line drawn down the pointer, middle, and ring fingers.
Directing my attention to the designer’s mood board at the hair and makeup test, mane master Paul Halon pointed out a photo of a Nepalese woman with straight, glossy, center-parted strands—his jumping off point for the style. To re-create it for the modern, urban consumer, he used Chi Volume Booster at the roots “to give hair guts” and applied Silk Infusion to the ends before blowing everything straight with a round brush. For movement, he pulled the length up into a loose bun, spritzed it with Infra Texture Hair Spray, heated the makeshift knot using a diffuser, and finally blasted it with a shot of cold air. “When you undo it you get a little kink, but I don’t want to use a tong because it [starts to] look cosmetic very quickly,” he said. The hair was then topped off with a silver chokerlike necklace designed by Gurung, or pulled back into a low ponytail with a black band. “When they walk, it’s very light, very airy,” he said of the final result—almost like a brisk mountain breeze was blowing down the catwalk.
“We’re incorporating the untouched world into the city,” Prabal Gurung explained of the beauty look for his Fall 2014 collection. For Paul Hanlon that meant straight, center-parted strands taken from a photo of a woman in Mustang, a district of Nepal. Makeup artist Diane Kendal used MAC Cosmetics to create “flushed” cheeks, dewy skin, and defined brows for that mountain-fresh feel. Here, how it is all came together at the hair and makeup test: click to view the slideshow.
For Prabal Gurung’s first print campaign, he revealed the image not in a glossy, but via social media—tempting his followers with pieces to the final puzzle on Instagram. So it comes as no surprise that he’s teasing his Fall 2014 collection in the same manner—posting a photo with the caption “Inspired by Mustang” (a village high in the Himalayas in Gurung’s native Nepal). “I go [home] once a year—it’s the only way to keep me grounded,” he said. The designer also blasted out a mood board (although it’s not the mood board), with another clue as for what’s to come: “Seeing red for Fall 2014.”
Thanks to MAC Cosmetics, who snuck me into the hair and makeup test, I got a preview of the look. Last season gave us retro pastel lips and formaldehyde-dipped strands, but today you’ll see hair (by Paul Hanlon) and makeup (created by Diane Kendal) that’s much more, as Gurung explained, “nonchalant.” The evening was over almost as quickly as it began, as both pros nailed the look right off the bat. “I can’t believe how fast it was!” he noted. I won’t spoil the surprise with any more insights, but I will say that after seeing the goods, I’d actually consider taking a trek just to see where this beauty and fashion journey began. And trust me, the only hiking I do is from show to show.
Get the full report here on Beauty Counter after the models hit the runway.