3 posts tagged "Paul Smith"
Peter Gray secured himself a place in Spring 2012′s hair hall of fame when he fashioned faux undercuts backstage at Paul Smith last season to help create the illusion of “cool, English rock chicks who shaved their heads for the summer.” Yesterday, the hairstylist was up to his old tricks, devising another optical illusion backstage at Smith’s Fall show, where there was a reason models’ faces looked particularly taut on the runway: “It’s a pulley system for cheekbones,” Gray said, taking a fine section of hair from above each ear and pulling it tight against the scalp before securing in the back of the head with a few spritzes of Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray and a piece of elastic. A back-combed top section that Gray fashioned into a side-parted, soft bouffant ultimately hid the flattened panels from view. “It forms a secret winch, tugging on the skin for an instant facelift effect,” he explained, pointing out that the technique is “one step on from the tight ponytail.” It sure beats Botox.
Last season, while making the international rounds for the Spring shows, something happened. I was backstage at Paul Smith in London, talking shop with makeup artist Petros Petrohilos, when he produced a small glass tub of bright red pigment and proceeded to apply it onto models’ lips and directly underneath their cheekbones for a sheer, glossy flush. It was one of the more vivid memories I have of LFW, mostly because I had never seen anything that applied like that. One part stain, one part balm, the jellylike substance wore so sheer yet managed to have so much subtle impact. “They’re called Tendertones,” Petrohilos told me about the multipurpose salves that MAC would be re-releasing for the spring after debuting them in a limited range of shades a few years back. Needless to say, I’ve been infatuated with them ever since. As I moved from London to Paris, I asked every MAC makeup artist I encountered if they had any extra pots to spare so I could start implementing the highly versatile product into my daily routine. I only recently procured my very own stash, but it was totally worth the wait. Four new shades of Tendertones are about to debut with MAC’s Shop MAC / Cook MAC collection next month, and if I were you, I’d be on the look out for Purring, a sheer tangerine, and Hot ‘n’ Saucy, the original transparent cherry I first fell in love with four months ago. Smooth over lips, dab onto cheeks, and get ready to reap the rewards.
$15, available February 9 at www.maccosmetics.com.
Since Alice Dellal and her cohorts revived the side shave a couple of years ago, the popular punk practice of taking razor to scalp has been reinstated as a favorite Brit girl pastime. And so it went at Paul Smith, where hairstylist Peter Gray was prepping locks with Morrocanoil Styling Cream and coiffing “cool, English rock chicks who shaved their heads for the summer.” It wasn’t the side shave but the undercut that Gray was after, though. Rather than actually shearing models backstage, he divided hair into a top and bottom section, weaving a coiled braid and pinning it above the nape of the neck, letting slightly textured “accidental” strands hang over from the top for an “airy” effect. To get a shiny finish, Gray coated his hands in Morroconoil’s Oil Treatment Light and pulled sections through his fingertips for a bit of soft separation.
Staying in line with the designer’s “young, cool” directive, makeup artist Petros Petrohilos layered on a thin coat of MAC Face + Body Foundation for dewy coverage that looked as though the girls had been “out all night.” To further that party-till-dawn feel, Petrohilos rimmed the upper and lower lash lines with MAC Eyeliner in Ebony and then promptly removed it, leaving a slight trace of pigment that was given a lived-in look courtesy of a swipe of its glossy, Mixing Medium Shine across lids. As a final touch, Petrohilos dotted MAC’s new Tender Tones—a highly versatile balm-cum-stain that’ll be out in February—in Hot & Saucy, a sheer red, onto lips and directly underneath cheekbones for a faint rosy flush.