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July 25 2014

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124 posts tagged "Peter Philips"

At Chanel, Peter Philips Paints It Black

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Peter Philips, Chanel’s creative director of makeup, has a knack for pulling out specific elements of Karl Lagerfeld’s sartorial vision and reinterpreting them in beauty terms. Who could forget Philips’ ivory-coated lash lines and pearl-tipped fingers to complement the house’s all-white Spring ’09 Couture show, or his jade nail from Fall ’09, a shade that was plucked directly from the similarly colored tweeds and accessories that Lagerfeld sent down the runway? For Fall ’10, Philips was at it again, although this time, he focused his attention solely on the eyes. “I kind of re-created a paint/print texture that Karl used in some of the handbag and shoe designs for the show,” Philips said yesterday backstage at the Grand Palais, where he was crafting an elongated, oblong shape on lids with tiny brushstrokes of La Ligne de Chanel in Noir Lamé placed on top of a sparkly taupe pigment from Enigma, a new eye shadow quad that will be part of Philips’ fall color collection. In addition to having a steady hand to get that perfectly haphazard liner application, Philips recommends applying the eye shadow wet to amp up its intensity. Otherwise, skin was kept clean and fresh, lips were nude, and cheeks were given a slight contouring with a lovely new shade of Joues Contraste Blush in Pink Cloud, which imparts an ever-so-slight luminescent flush. For you fellow nail junkies out there waiting to see what Philips would come up with next, he gave his limited-edition Jade Rose—a subdued pink color that was released last fall but was overshadowed by its pure green counterpart—a second go-around this season, which means you’ll have another chance to get your hands on it when it bows this summer, if you missed out on the opportunity last year.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com; Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com

Leigh Lezark Lightens Up

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Yup, that’s Leigh Lezark at left, but we can understand your confusion. Gone is her signature severe, side-parted bob, and in its place, long soft waves—with an almost recognizable pink cheek and a beautiful rosy lip. It was definitely a much girlier side of the MisShapes frontwoman than we’re used to seeing front row at Chanel, but Lezark was pulling it off at Karl Lagerfeld’s extravaganza this morning and showing some love for Peter Philips’ new Rouge Coco lipstick collection in the process (the shade she’s wearing is called Cambon)—good form for the Chanel brand ambassador. What do you think about her departure from the dark side?

Photo: Eric Ryan / Getty Images

Backstage At Dries, The Best Kind Of Minimalism

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With the Paris shows officially under way, our one burning beauty question has been answered: Yes, nineties minimalism has in fact made the trip from Milan, where it was a carryover effect from both London and New York. Despite a few dips into sixties hair territory at Rochas and Giles yesterday, barefaced looks reigned at Nicolas Andreas Taralis and Limi Feu—not to mention Dries Van Noten, where makeup artist Peter Philips has perfected the no-frills face over the past few seasons. But leave it to Philips to stake his claim on the familiar territory for Fall by adding a dash of extraordinary to what has become a general trend toward the ordinary. Like Linda Cantello at Armani, Philips chose to make his statement with the brow, adding an extra element to an otherwise plain approach by penciling in a sharp, short black line and blending it seamlessly into the natural curvature of models’ arches. You could barely see the precision of his handiwork on the runway, where the additional step served to bring a subtle strength to the face, without detracting from the clothes. And that’s what’s great about Philips’ work: Even his simplest ideas have impact.

Photo: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse / FirstView.com

Backstage At Fendi, A Soft And Girlie Déjà Vu

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There was a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll vibe backstage at Fendi yesterday, where the hair and makeup team of Sam McKnight and Peter Philips combined to create a pretty, feminine take on a masculine idea. McKnight loosely worked off the concept of a greaser-era pompadour, although his coifs were far looser than those worn by 1950′s bad boys—not to mention messier. While McKnight gathered models’ hair into high ponytails, rolling them over themselves and pinning them to hold, he made sure to use a light hand, letting rogue wisps and flyaways help shape the end result. It was quite similar to his ingenue-inspired topknots from Spring, come to think of it—and the nostalgic reference wasn’t lost on makeup artist Philips. His signature peachy cheek, which we have become so accustomed to seeing on this runway, was in full effect for Fall as he once again turned to Chanel’s Joues Contraste Blush in Fresque, applying it to the apples of models’ cheeks and adding a mauve-y gloss to their lips for some sheer shine. To better serve the softness of the overall look, Philips used a few strokes of a beige eye shadow for slight contouring but chose to skip the mascara and eyeliner altogether—a decision that is gaining popularity at the Fall shows in general. Could last season’s lash-loving be coming to a premature end? Stay tuned.

Photo: Greg Kessler / FirstView.com

Vanessa Paradis Endorses Bolder, Better Lips

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To celebrate her new role as the face of its Rouge Coco lipstick collection designed by makeup artist Peter Philips, Chanel threw a lavish dinner for model/actress/chanteuse Vanessa Paradis last night in New York. What to wear for the occasion? Gabrielle, of course, a creamy matte red pigment from the new range. Flawlessly powdered skin and soft tendrils pinned into a loose updo completed the look. If this doesn’t make you want to dabble in high-opacity pout perfecters, nothing will. Thoughts on the color?

Photo: Sherly Rabbani and Josephine Solimene