124 posts tagged "Peter Philips"
There were no little black dresses at the Chanel Couture show today, and no thick black cat-eyes courtesy of Peter Philips, either. Three little word combinations that came directly from Karl Lagerfeld—”liquid silver,” “neon baroque,” and “chemical pastels”—inspired the models’ brightly painted lips and metallic pewter eyes and nails. Philips used Rouge Allure in Genial, an as-yet-unreleased product from the brand’s summer Les Pop-Up collection, to get the “chemical coral” pout he was going for. He created an elongated silver/gray eye with Chanel’s new Ombres Contraste eye shadow duo in Gris-Subtil, and subtly contoured cheeks with its Les Tissages de Chanel in Tweed Corail. As for the makeup guru’s knack for sparking nail varnish fads, there might be a lull in the madness—at least for the Euro set. He revived Chanel’s Duo Platinum Silver today, which was only available across the pond when it launched in 2007. Mr. Philips, if you’re reading this, a relaunch in the U.S. would not be frowned upon.
Don’t let the snow that dusted New York City in the wee hours this morning fool you; spring is officially here—in beauty terms, that is, and a host of anticipated new launches is beginning to arrive in stores. As per usual, Chanel’s latest makeup collection is at the top of the list, with a selection of sheer neutrals, including Soleil Tan, to add warmth and brightness to your winter skin, as well as some new additions to Peter Philips’ increasingly impressive nail arsenal. The mauve-y grayish Particulière is already sold out on the brand’s Web site. But premature lacquer insanity aside, the real craziness at the counter is yet to come. Word on the street is that Philips has produced a limited quantity of the temporary tattoos he designed for the show in October, which are slated to go on sale February 15. Mark your calendars.
Bleached brows may have ruled the Spring 2010 runways, but at Karl Lagerfeld’s pre-fall spectacular in Shanghai last night, the fuller the brows, the better. Under the direction of makeup artist Peter Philips, models were given thin black cat-eyes and filled-in forehead fringe to add to the general opulence afoot on the barge-cum-catwalk that was docked in the Huangpu River for the night’s festivities. If you’re interested in achieving a similar look at home—you know, when dreaming up your own cinematic version of “Coco Goes to China”—create a slight flick that extends beyond the upper lash line using Chanel’s Automatic Liquid Eyeliner and draw in your arches with its Precision Brow Definer, straying outside your natural shape to create an exaggerated thickness. As for the fine-jewelry hair pins, we advise going with some bedazzled bobby pins and really trying to suspend your disbelief.
As readers of this blog know, we are somewhat nail obsessed. Certain shows during fashion month provide more excitement in this arena than others, but we particularly hold our breath for Chanel, where artistic director of makeup Peter Philips never disappoints. Philips’ Jade color from Fall had the blogosphere abuzz long before he even decided to put it into production (it hits stores this month). For Spring, it appears he has gone gray. We noticed the warm, mauve-y polish—dubbed Particulière—during Karl Lagerfeld’s hoedown yesterday, but when we spotted it on Dree Hemingway later in the night, it was somehow that much more lust-worthy. Hemingway, who walked in the show, chose to keep the lacquer on post-presentation and rocked it with a cropped fur jacket to the Fendi’O party for Pixie Lott. It bows in January and will fit in well with next season’s neutral nail palette. Thoughts on the color?
There are times when conceptual art, rather than actual wearability, can resonate backstage as much as on the runway. Yesterday was one such occasion, when Alexander McQueen presented his Plato’s Atlantis collection, enlightening his hair and makeup team on the wonders of alien movies, Art Nouveau, and Darwinism—all of which informed his Spring presentation. In response, Redken’s Guido Palau and makeup artist Peter Philips crafted looks that were more about a feast for the eyes than anything else. “Some things are like couture,” noted Palau of his intricate amphibious coifs. “It’s a fantasy that’s there to inspire people.” Setting any notions of at-home duplication aside for a moment, Palau’s winged ‘dos and interwoven braids were awe-inspiring for their theatrical nature, which could place them comfortably in a sci-fi super-production—less so in real life. The makeup story unfolded in a similar manner, progressing from a uniform beige base to full-on prosthetics for an homage to otherworldly (or, rather, underworldly) creatures. To capture a certain extraterrestrial allure, Peter Philips started with shiny foundations to even out skin tone and to blank out brows, as is popular practice these days. He followed that up with varying warm and cool shades of Chanel and MAC pigments to conjure “evolutionary” skin tones and shapes. Not necessarily everyday wear, per se, but definitely handy inspiration with All Hallows’ Eve just around the corner.