111 posts tagged "Peter Philips"
“I was told by Karl [Lagerfeld] that the collection mainly included black, white, pink, and a dash of jade,” creative director of makeup Peter Philips said of the inspiration for the look he created backstage at Chanel yesterday. Keeping models’ faces “graphic but soft at the same time,” Philips translated these colors into cosmetic terms, designing black and white lash embellishments brought to fruition by artisans at the Lesage embroidery atelier in Paris, adding coral pink accents to eyes and cheeks, and applying a few coats of a jade nail color to fingertips. “I love to work very soft around the eye with gray-green or light pink shadows, putting the focus on the nails with a red or a dark jade,” Philips divulged, adding that the flip side of this technique also works well: “You can also go for something strong around the eye, like a dramatic gloss, with a subtle nail in pearl or soft jade.” Luckily, both options will—fingers crossed—be available when his new Fall color collection launches this summer. On tap: an eye gloss quad that features four iconic shades associated with the brand in black, rouge-noir, pearl, and gold (a palette for which Philips admits to having a “soft spot” that we will no doubt develop, too). And while the green nails he sent down the runway were created just for the presentation, Philips is known for using the catwalk as a preview for limited-edition cult nail colors to come (the Moscow collection, anyone?) so we can only hope a lacquer in vert is in the works for public consumption.
The editors at i-D magazine essentially dedicated January’s “Beautiful Issue” to cover girl Eniko Mihalik, the Hungarian model and Gucci campaign star whose otherworldly cheeks and generally perfect, Daria Werbowy-like visage are garnering her It girl status. An It team was thus assembled to prep and photograph her for the shoot, including Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin behind the lens, Oribe on hair, and one Peter Philips on makeup duty. Occasionally taking off his creative director of Chanel makeup hat for the right editorial engagement, Philips applied a precise coat of what we’re assuming is one of Chanel’s new goth-inspired Rouge Allure lip colors due out in February (Hysteria is a phenomenal shade of black with a hint of violet) to Mihalik’s doll-like pout while utilizing actual jewels, rather than jewel tones, to make her lower lashes, er, stand out. A strange accessory to be sure, although one that could potentially have a shot at retail success. (Chanel devotees are generally cut from an exceedingly loyal cloth.)
At Karl Lagerfeld’s “Paris-Moscou” themed Chanel Pre-Fall show earlier this month, homage was paid to a myriad of Russian inspirations for a collection of clothes and accessories that we called an “excursion into Coco Chanel’s exotic history with men.” But the detail-oriented among you, those who made it past the chain headdresses and elaborate heels, likely noticed sparkling nails inspired by, get this, the beauty of women. “Russian women,” said Peter Philips, Global Creative Director for Chanel makeup, who created a new, limited edition collection of lacquers for the occasion. Philips added a different glimmer to each of the three black-based metallic shades, using flecks of shimmering red (Feu de Russie), gold (Or de Russie), and blu (Nuit de Russie) to distinguish one from another. Available through January 2009, visit www.chanel.com to get yours while supplies last. And remember, once they sell out, there’s always eBay.
When Peter Philips took over as creative director of makeup at Chanel this past year, his first project was a huge, overwhelming success. If you dabbled in bright nail polish colors this summer, it is because of the trickle-down effect of Philips’ limited-edition Robertson Boulevard collection, which included hot pink, hot orange, yellow, and purple colors that were so wildly popular, they sold out many times over and inspired more than a few imitations. When he followed this up with Gold Fiction, an 18-karat gold-flecked lacquer, it became clear that Philips intended to keep up Chanel’s tradition of creating collectible—and limited-edition—nail colors to send product fiends into a tizzy. “I love nail polish,” Philips confirms. “I feel like I’m a kid in a candy store when I get into the laboratory.” For his next trick, he’s releasing two limited-edition colors in January: a pink/Champagne offering previewed at the RTW show last week, as well as a shade that has the candy man himself a little excited. As part of his Gypsy-themed Spring collection, Philips has created Vendetta—a deep aubergine polish in the same vein as last year’s best-seller, Blue Satin. Ladies, set your homepages.
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
“Mis en beauté,” said Peter Philips, Chanel’s creative director of makeup, in reference to the look he created behind the Rue Cambon storefront facade constructed inside the Grand Palais. The Frenchism, which translates closest to “bringing out the best in a woman,” meant an all-natural palette, intended to exude an image that was “chic, sophisticated, but not too made up.” In other words, very Lee Miller, who Karl Lagerfeld referenced as an inspiration. To achieve the look, Philips gave light, translucent skin just a touch of warmth while keeping lips nude, using standout products from his spring cosmetics collection like Chanel Joue Contraste blush in Fandango and Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Color in Mythic. A darkened brow, mascara just at the roots of lashes, and a bit of shading on the eyes courtesy of a metallic gray color that fell somewhere in between silver and gunmetal added subtle drama. Also previewed at the show was a new soft pink/Champagne nail lacquer, which will likely fly out of stores come January as quickly as headset-clad producers herded models down the sidewalk, er, runway.
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel