111 posts tagged "Peter Philips"
When news broke before the shows started last season that makeup artist Peter Philips would be giving up his title as Chanel creative director of makeup, we took some solace in the fact that he’d still be the brand’s go-to face painter on campaigns and backstage at runway shows. It was when we realized that he’d no longer be lending his singular vision to its product creation that the pangs of sadness set in, though. There will be life at Chanel’s prestigious labs after Philips, of course, but his five-year tenure there has truly produced some of the brand’s biggest hits, including Rouge Coco, Philips’ brilliant reimagining of Chanel’s lipstick offerings; Perfection Lumière, his foundation update; and all the twists and turns in between, which have included haute couture temporary tattoos, limited-edition nail varnishes galore, and Illusion d’Ombre, the metallic eye shadow mousse by which all other metallic eye shadow mousses will forever be judged.
The makeup maestro did have one last treat for us, however, which just started hitting shelves this month. Dubbed Les Beiges, the six shades of this gloriously lightweight powder are way more than mere mattifying tools to be worn on top of foundation, although they definitely serve that purpose, too. What’s more impressive is the way they work to very subtly contour the high planes of the face when you employ a compact that is one or two shades darker than your natural complexion; act as a lipstick or eye shadow primer when brushed on before additional makeup; or very easily add a velvety, shine-free finish to any pared-down look. Simply put, they’re incredibly multitalented, much like the man who created them.
Peter Philips has said it before, and he all but screamed it on Chanel’s Cruise runway in Singapore yesterday: Karl Lagerfeld loves an eye. In fact, backstage-beauty watchers will have to look all the way back to the house’s Fall 2010 Couture show to find evidence of the last time Lagerfeld ordered up a statement lip—which might be why Philips is in his comfort zone when it comes to lids; no matter how many times he reimagines them, they never fail to impress.
For Resort, the makeup artist’s handiwork was even more noteworthy than usual, considering the hot and humid conditions of the Southeast Asian summer—and because rather than expand the definition of the word makeup with pieces of tulle, lace, jumbo glitter, and rhinestones, as has become his signature, Philips used plain old pens and pencils, to no less impactful an effect. “We combined an exaggerated graphic black eyeliner on the eyelid, with an electric-blue kohl underliner,” he explained drawing a thick black flick through the crease of the eye with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Noir Intense before using the same crayon in True Blue to create an equally elongated stroke beneath the lower lash line. “I also used lots of black mascara on the top lashes and applied a gently enhanced eyebrow,” the face painter continued, swiping on multiple coats of its Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Noir. Skin was kept luminous with a touch of Chanel Joues Contraste Blush in Frivole, a warm peach, its Éclat Lumière Highlighter Face Pen, and some expert contouring courtesy of Chanel Les Beiges, an inventive array of sculpting powders that debuts next month. To not distract the attention from the eyes, which were dusted by Sam McKnight’s side-swept faux fringes—the ends of precisely pinned French twists that had been carefully arranged over the forehead—mouths were kept bare, albeit moisturized. “We kept the lips natural, only using [Rouge Coco Baume] lip balm,” Philips elaborated. He did allow for a little distraction on the nails, though, which peeked out of a series of fingerless gloves to reveal two glimmering coats of the cult-favorite Le Vernis de Chanel in Black Satin.
It was only a matter of time. Ever since Peter Philips glued chunky pieces of jumbo glitter onto models’ eyelids at Chanel’s Fall show in lieu of actual liner, we’ve been waiting for someone to reprise the look on the red carpet. And it looks like Hanneli Mustaparta is that person. The model-turned-blogger/photographer/stylist showed up to the Whitney’s annual Art Party last night in New York sporting a near-identical application of the sequins Philips painstakingly applied backstage at the Grand Palais back in March, which earns her a very enthusiastic golf clap from us. You, too?
Throwback Thursday is a new feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Nadja Auermann
The Moment: Ear painting
The Motivation: Following a few seasons of 3-D makeup on the runway that has seen everything from sequins, rhinestones, paper cutouts, lace, and tulle double as eyeliner, mascara, and brow pencils, we’ve been semi-conditioned to think outside the box when it comes to defining the medium of makeup. But Peter Philips further expanded on the traditional idea of “face painting” by bedazzling nine models’ ears backstage at Dries Van Noten for Fall. You could say an emphasis on ear embellishment started last season, when side-slicked hair turned up at Rodarte to show off Game of Thrones-inspired dragon cuffs—although Stéphane Marais might beg to differ. The famed makeup artist gave model Nadja Auermann the silver treatment two decades ago for a 1994 issue of Harper’s Bazaar. What’s that they say about fashion—and beauty—being cyclical?
Peter Philips’ beauty look at Chanel is almost always a highlight of our fashion month. The makeup artist, who is known for the way he frequently expands upon the traditional idea of face painting with unexpected materials—like rhinestones as eyebrows and pieces of woven-fabric-turned-eyelashes—chose sequins as his makeup medium of choice for Fall. Using “jumbo” pieces of art-supply glitter instead of run-of-the-mill eye pencils, Philips applied single pieces of sparkle along the lash line and in the lashes to make sure models’ faces registered in the show’s gigantic venue (and to add that classic Philips-ian touch we have come to admire, of course). If you’ve been marveling over the “how’d he do that?” quality of the effect since the show on Tuesday, Style.com went backstage and shot Philips in action to help answer some of your burning questions. Click above to watch.