13 posts tagged "Peter Som"
The sixties are alive and well this season and everyone, from New York to London to Milan, is getting in the spirit. Eugene Souleiman channeled Françoise Hardy at Peter Som; Pat McGrath was inspired by Britt Ekland at Gucci; Mia Farrow was the icon on Paul Hanlon’s mind at Moschino; and today at Versace, Guido Palau crafted a slight bump in the hair—a surefire marker of the very groovy decade. When it comes to appliances, however, we don’t usually expect a throwback. White Sands, a haircare company, developed an attachment for your blow-dryer that acts like the “salon hoods or bonnets” of yesteryear, setting curls or locking in moisture from treatments, hands-free. Model Doutzen Kroes even appeared to be wearing a similar contraption on set this week. Will the concept take off like Mary Quant’s miniskirt or the bikini post-Beach Party? If the runways are any indication, going back in time just may be the wave of the future.
I first noticed the extreme hair color trend backstage at Prabal Gurung, where model Natalie Westling’s flaming red, Manic Panic hue stood out in a sea of brunettes and blonds. Even if it was a one-off, I found it refreshing to see someone taking a permanent beauty risk. As NYFW progressed, however, it became clear that dye jobs with personality are more of a help than a hindrance when getting cast for Fall 2014. Ola Rudnicka sports the ever-popular platinum this season, but setting her apart are hot-pink highlights. A rainbow of dye jobs ran rampant at DKNY, where gray, lavender, cobalt, and highlighter-yellow strands made their way down the runway. Peter Som also incorporated color, adding in stonewashed purple and coral extensions painted by Wella pro Alexandra Matiz. Singer Annie Clark (aka St. Vincent) arrived backstage at Diane von Furstenberg with lilac curls. Catwalker and fellow performer Karen Elson exclaimed, “Annie, your hair!” when she sat down in the makeup chair across from her at the show. I’m as equally exuberant about the trend.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux “believes in green” this season. And it all started with a velvet chair (shown here) posted by fellow face painter Gucci Westman. He used various iterations of the shade at multiple shows already—including Peter Som, Altuzarra, and Derek Lam. At Som it was an olive green (MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Au Nature). “This eyeshadow is so disgusting, but I love it,” he said. The same went for the lipstick in Siss, a yellow-based nude: “I call it like a bird poo color, but if you look at the two [products] together, how chic is that?” He rimmed the eyes with a peacock green liner pencil before blurring it with gloss to lend a lived-in look to the makeup (similar to the sixties-inspired hair created by Eugene Souleiman, which Pecheux described as a “perfect hairdo” that a girl has slept on for a week). At Altuzarra, he sprinkled glitter with green undertones on models’ lids, and for Lam he created a green-gray hue that was “organic” but “intense.” Pecheux proclaimed green the new black in a message to Westman on Instagram, but now he’s making his flippant comment a serious statement for Fall 2014.
Pastel-colored hair streaks have enjoyed a longer stay of execution on the runway then some members of the style set (this one included) are willing to believe. So when we arrived backstage at Peter Som this morning only to see that they would be making another appearance here for Spring, we definitely took pause. And Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman noticed. “It’s good clothes, bad hair,” he admitted, explaining that his goal was to counterbalance Som’s “very rich-looking” collection with something deliberately “distressed, vintage…and patchy.” So he collaborated with Wella color ambassador, Aura Friedman, to work mineral-hued dyes—tourmaline, amethyst, teal, denim, and dusty rose—into a series of long weaves. “I wanted it to feel very spontaneous,” Souleiman said, gluing the hairpieces into “unusual” parting patterns while prepping strands with Wella’s Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray to create a matte feel. “It’s meant to be visual, not technical,” he insisted, pointing out that application is key when it comes to keeping pops of color from looking less contrived, and more “tough and cool.”
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux also had juxtaposition on his mind. Describing Som’s clothes as “more grown up,” Pecheux was intent on keeping faces playful. “When you become an adult, you do everything for a reason; kids do everything for no reason. Like, [their] drawings are amazing,” he said, explaining the thought process behind the finger-painted, “innocent” pastels he used on models’ eyes. Dusting lids with MAC’s forthcoming Eyeshadow in Sunshine, a sunny yellow, Pecheux applied another wash of pigment through the crease in varying shades of orange, blue, green, pink, and mauve. As a finishing touch, he left a darker thumbprint right below brushed-up brows, using a more concentrated dose of one of five corresponding MAC Paintsticks. Mouths were kept nude with varying slicks of MAC Lipstick in Luxe Natural and Posh Tone. As far as who got what eye-shadow combination, Pecheux left that to models’ whims. “As soon as it becomes too studied, it loses the innocence.”
“Nail art is not going away,” Deborah Lippmann told us last season, and if there’s one thing we can already report from the backstage trenches after two days of shows, she continues to be correct for Spring. Lippmann brought her own high-design touch to Kate Spade today, where she churned out a series of multicolored gingham prints with polish, but it’s a continuation of the artful French manicure that she previewed at Donna Karan for Fall that seems to have staying power. A mattified, black-on-cream iteration stole the show at Tanya Taylor yesterday, and this morning at Peter Som, it was an orange-on-mint green version that had everyone talking. Custom-created for Som, two coats of Zoya’s pastel lime Neely were topped with a bold stroke of the mandarin Sharon. Both will be sold in a trio kit with Jacqueline, a creamy beige, starting…now: The limited-edition collection launched right after Som’s 10 a.m. show and will be available at www.zoya.com while supplies last.