4 posts tagged "Petros Petrohilos"
Last season, while making the international rounds for the Spring shows, something happened. I was backstage at Paul Smith in London, talking shop with makeup artist Petros Petrohilos, when he produced a small glass tub of bright red pigment and proceeded to apply it onto models’ lips and directly underneath their cheekbones for a sheer, glossy flush. It was one of the more vivid memories I have of LFW, mostly because I had never seen anything that applied like that. One part stain, one part balm, the jellylike substance wore so sheer yet managed to have so much subtle impact. “They’re called Tendertones,” Petrohilos told me about the multipurpose salves that MAC would be re-releasing for the spring after debuting them in a limited range of shades a few years back. Needless to say, I’ve been infatuated with them ever since. As I moved from London to Paris, I asked every MAC makeup artist I encountered if they had any extra pots to spare so I could start implementing the highly versatile product into my daily routine. I only recently procured my very own stash, but it was totally worth the wait. Four new shades of Tendertones are about to debut with MAC’s Shop MAC / Cook MAC collection next month, and if I were you, I’d be on the look out for Purring, a sheer tangerine, and Hot ‘n’ Saucy, the original transparent cherry I first fell in love with four months ago. Smooth over lips, dab onto cheeks, and get ready to reap the rewards.
$15, available February 9 at www.maccosmetics.com.
Since Alice Dellal and her cohorts revived the side shave a couple of years ago, the popular punk practice of taking razor to scalp has been reinstated as a favorite Brit girl pastime. And so it went at Paul Smith, where hairstylist Peter Gray was prepping locks with Morrocanoil Styling Cream and coiffing “cool, English rock chicks who shaved their heads for the summer.” It wasn’t the side shave but the undercut that Gray was after, though. Rather than actually shearing models backstage, he divided hair into a top and bottom section, weaving a coiled braid and pinning it above the nape of the neck, letting slightly textured “accidental” strands hang over from the top for an “airy” effect. To get a shiny finish, Gray coated his hands in Morroconoil’s Oil Treatment Light and pulled sections through his fingertips for a bit of soft separation.
Staying in line with the designer’s “young, cool” directive, makeup artist Petros Petrohilos layered on a thin coat of MAC Face + Body Foundation for dewy coverage that looked as though the girls had been “out all night.” To further that party-till-dawn feel, Petrohilos rimmed the upper and lower lash lines with MAC Eyeliner in Ebony and then promptly removed it, leaving a slight trace of pigment that was given a lived-in look courtesy of a swipe of its glossy, Mixing Medium Shine across lids. As a final touch, Petrohilos dotted MAC’s new Tender Tones—a highly versatile balm-cum-stain that’ll be out in February—in Hot & Saucy, a sheer red, onto lips and directly underneath cheekbones for a faint rosy flush.
While we’ve seen our fair share of seventies heroines thus far in London—the disco queen (Unique, Giles); the South Beach jet-setter (House of Holland); and the low, loose ponytail-wearing girl-next-door at Jaeger—one archetype from that decade has thus far been left untouched. That would be the burgeoning female rocker. Thankfully, Marios Schwab righted that wrong, adding Joan Jett—and her image-defining spiky shag—to the inspiration mix at his show this morning, enlisting the services of hairstylist Luke Hersheson and his trusty wig-trimming shears. Hersheson and his team set to work cutting wigs into Jett’s signature short-in-back, wispy-at-the-neck crop before saturating strands in L’Oréal Professionnel’s Texture tonic to give them a slightly grimy, I-just-rolled-off-of-the-tour-bus look. Jett’s black-rimmed eyes were also in full effect, thanks to makeup artist Petros Petrohilos, whose lid lining was not contained to raven-haired models alone. A few blond hairpieces also showed up on the runway, giving Cherie Currie a well-deserved shout-out for Spring as well.
The “skin-finishing product” industry is set to make billions this year, but Sass & Bide’s Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton are keeping it real. While the rest of the pasty-skinned masses slap on a spray tan, bronzer, or body gloss at the faintest imperfection, the Aussie designers seem out to prove that embellishment definitely belongs on clothes—and not on the body. At their Spring 2010 show this past weekend, makeup artist Petros Petrohilos was instructed to leave the limbs alone, despite the cutaway tops and exposed midriffs that hit the runway. The only statement makeup was generous lashings of mascara. “Petros was going for high drama, but in a fresh way,” Revlon’s Nicola Thornton reports. “He let each application of mascara dry and did loads of reapplications—then just flesh-toned lipstick.” The body, however, was bronze- and goop-free. And yes, that did mean that under harsh lighting and being two feet away from the runway, I did spot some moles, a few faint stretch marks, and a spider vein here and there. But in a world where every minute blemish is sprayed, blended, or glossed to death, it was actually liberating to see that a real woman—16 years old as she may have been—does in fact exist, and she is no less beautiful without the cover-up. Would it be so bad if we all put away our spray tans, bronzers, and oils for a bit and let our bodies breathe? Just don’t suggest it to Roksanda Ilincic, whose premiere swimsuit collection, which shows this week, is being sponsored by St. Tropez.