10 posts tagged "Phillip Lim"
MAC may have nabbed Proenza Schouler (announced during the Spring 2014 collections), but NARS Cosmetics is teaming up with Phillip Lim to produce nine nail lacquers (available in August)—one of which will be used at the show today. Serving as the brand du jour backstage for the past fourteen seasons, it’s safe to say the cosmetic company understands the designer’s aesthetic. Face painter Francelle Daly created a “monochromatic techno look” to complement the “geode-inspired embroidery” in September. And in just a few short hours, I’ll get a first look at Lim’s limited-edition line of polishes and what Daly has dreamed up for Fall.
Beauty And The Beat: Eight-Day-Old Hair, Phillip Lim Shorts, And More Coachella Prep From St. Vincent’s Annie Clark
This year’s Coachella lineup is packed with women who know how to command a crowd, wield a mascara wand—and wear a blue sequined pantsuit with gusto. Feist, Cat Power, and Florence Welch will all be flexing their vocal chords this weekend (and next) in Indio, California. But when it comes to subtle beauty, few can top Annie Clark, a.k.a. St. Vincent. The multi-instrumentalist has captivated audiences with her small but powerful voice, delicately painted lips, and raven-hued ringlets since releasing her first solo album, Marry Me, in 2007—the fashion world included; Clark has performed at Rachel Comey’s Spring 2010 show and frequently sits front-row at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Five years and two albums later (her most recent, Strange Mercy, came out last fall) and Clark is just as luminous. But how will her halo of curls and porcelain skin fare in the desert? Style.com checked in with the art-pop musician to find out what festival-ready hair products she’s stocked up on, her enviable suitcase of designer duds, and why you should never, ever eat the catering backstage.
You’ve got an amazing mess of curly hair. How do you keep it in shape when you play outside?
Gone are the days of haphazardly cutting my own hair in a dorm room. Now I go see Peter Gray every three to four months and he keeps me on track. Then I usually just run some Bumble and bumble Deeep into it when it’s wet, then let it air-dry. Hair starts looking its best when it hasn’t been washed for approximately seven to 10 days. I should be at day eight on the first weekend [of Coachella]!
You’re practically a fashion week regular at this point. Does it make you feel like you need to step up your game when it comes to choosing onstage outfits?
I was raised by jazz musicians who wouldn’t dream of stepping onstage unless they looked “proper.” It was a show of respect to the audience in those days: If you’re onstage asking people to look at you, you ought to look put-together. I tend to abide by this philosophy.
Behind the makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
There’s detail oriented, and then there’s Phillip Lim. “I’m really hands-on,” Lim admitted last weekend when he summoned longtime collaborators, Nars brand ambassador Francelle Daly and hair stylist Odile Gilbert to his studio to talk beauty for his Fall collection. The meeting of the minds was truly something to behold: Lim took Daly and Gilbert through his designs piece by piece, shared his “neo-noir” inspiration with them presenting a Roy Lichtenstein photo as a starting off point for the makeup, and then sent them on their way to “search for magic,” as Gilbert eloquently put it. And the magic came…slowly. At fist, there was too much red in the “superhero” eyes Daly drew onto lids using NARS Lip Liner in Jungle Red and its Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches, which she dotted with a “special effect” in the form of its Triple X Gloss for an illustration-caliber shine. And the hair? Well, the hair vacillated between too soft and too sleek, until Lim actually took out a pen and a marker and drew the shape he was after. “I don’t speak the language [of beauty] so sometimes the only way to get there is to paint a picture,” he explained. When everything was said and done, Daly had used almost an entire tube of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, which she had slicked onto custom-cut fake lashes, and Gilbert won Lim over with a texturized updo that she prepped with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and then fashioned into a curled under faux bob on one side with a long, straight section hanging down in the back—for the short term at least. When we arrived backstage at Lim’s show yesterday, he asked her to change the look one last time. “I had to do all 42 girls, in 45 minutes,” Gilbert exclaimed after the presentation. Magic, indeed. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.
Back in the old days—before nail decals, Minx, neon lacquers, and crackle topcoats—women frequently wore their nails in the buff, rubbing a rose cream into the nail bed that, when polished and shined, produced a red-hued finish. “A raincoat of color” is how CND nail tech Angie Wingle explains the effect, which she reinvigorated backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim (more on that in a bit). “The purpose is to enhance the nail bed rather than the skin around it,” Wingle pointed out of what amounts to a stain—a thin, watery varnish that applies like a transparent veil of pigment. To create the customized color Lim wanted for Spring, Wingle and her cohorts mixed CND Speedy Topcoat with a few drops of its Raspberry Parfait, a bright cerise, and its Guava, a pale warm coral, yielding a pinkish-hued glaze. It’s an easy way to make well-groomed nails look instantly healthy and a novel idea for the ever-booming nail industry—one that the sisters behind Rococo Nail Apparel have already capitalized on. Ange and Vernice Walker have a sheer Bordeaux stain to wear alone or over other lacquers that’s due out for the holidays.
Tao Okamoto has officially reached It model status. Forget the fact that the catwalker has been Phillip Lim’s arm candy for the past few seasons or that he had every girl who walked in his Fall 2009 show wear cropped wigs in homage to Okamoto’s signature coif. No, her “I’ve made it” moment came this month with the release of the “All Tao, All the Time” November issue of Vogue Nippon. Paris Vogue gave similar solo honors to both Daria Werbowy and Lara Stone this year, which puts Okamoto in particularly good company. The Japanese glossy features spreads from Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Søolve Sundsbø, Daniel Jackson, and Mark Segal, but we are particularly fond of photographer Glen Luchford’s work, entitled “My Colorful Furry Friend,” which shows the model in one of Fall’s biggest nail color trends. With everything from Chanel’s pale, shimmery Jade and Envy the deep moss hue from Zoya’s Truth or Dare collection to Oilslick, the blackened forest shade from CND’s new Colour & Effects line, it’s easy being green. Or at least Okamoto makes it look that way. Do you think the color is best left to professionals, or are you considering giving it a real-life test run this season?