14 posts tagged "Phyto"
Maybe it was the fact that last season’s big, sixties-era undone bouffants met with mixed reviews—or that Spring’s general, minimal-minded beauty mantra is spreading. Whatever it was, Orlando Pita kept the hair backstage at Derek Lam incredibly simple—”relatable,” even, he offered.
The technically gifted hairstylist was more inclined to blame the move toward minimal on the wavering economy—”it’s not really the time to be flashy”—not to mention the state of fashion. “There are all these people now who are practical in the way they design,” he said, running off the list of sartorial stars responsible for the marked change, in his opinion. “Raf Simons is at Christian Dior now; Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent—and Jil Sander is back at Jil Sander.” Then, of course, there’s Lam—a master in his own right at the simplicity of sportswear. “Derek wanted something that wasn’t referenced,” Pita shared, as he coated hair with Phyto Intense Volume Mousse, blowing it dry for texture and then coating his hands with its Workable Holding Spray before slicking down front pieces from an imperfect side part. Pita used T3′s straightening and styling iron to create loose waves through the lengths, deconstructing them a bit to ensure that the hair never looked “worked on.”
Estée Lauder creative director of makeup Tom Pecheux was going for a similar light-handed approach, despite using a bounty of product. “The only thing we’re not using is mascara!” he said of the fully made-up face that still managed to avoid looking heavy, thanks to Pecheux’s focus on a “see-through,” transparent finish. Prepping skin with Lauder’s Re-Nutriv Intensive Age Renewal Creme, his trusty bottle of its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and the new-for-spring Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion, Pecheux created a base with its Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. Contouring with Lauder’s Pure Color Blush in Brazen Bronze instead of a sculpting product, Pecheux moved his focus to the eyes, which were layered with a selection of the brand’s forthcoming Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints in Cosmic, Extreme Emerald, Halo, and Steel, a sheer teal/sandy-gold palette Pecheux described as “aqua—like the reflection of sunrise on a lake.” Lips were toned down and arches were beefed up, in accordance with Pecheux’s preference for big, full brows—”I can’t help it,” the face painter joked. As Lam made his way around the room, checking on the pre-show progress, he stopped by Pecheux’s station for a quick hello. “The girls look pretty!” he said. Indeed.
With the proliferation of one-stop blow-dry shops saturating major metropolitan areas, how does a newcomer set itself apart from the well-coiffed pack? For Matthew Preece, owner of Santa Monica’s Fred Segal Salon, the answer revealed itself through proxy—the just renovated reception space of his already established salon was a prime location for his newly opened Blow Dry Lounge—and partnership; Preece has teamed up with PHYTO to exclusively offer the line’s plant-based products and botanical treatments, a coup no other blow-dry destination has managed to secure, and a score for Los Angeles’ eco-obsessed. “It was a perfect time to work with PHYTO because they’re going through a bit of a resurgence now with everyone looking for all-natural products,” Preece explained of the serendipitous timing.
In the name of staying competitive, all blow-outs are $35, with five different styling options to choose from. But the lounge also features two updo options and select PHYTO treatments (scalp exfoliation and moisture repair) that you can add on to any service. Preece is also banking on another important differentiator: quality of service. “Our stylists are stylists from the salon, so you’re not just getting people who become licensed to just do blow-drys. You’re getting the full Fred Segal Salon service here,” he says. And then there’s the vibe of the four-station destination, which is a bit less hustle and a little more flow; just a few short blocks from the Pacific, the energy is decidedly more relaxed, an atmosphere that’s helped along by the yoga studio Preece opened off the reception area in 2011. “I just didn’t want to be the same as everybody else,” he explains. Mission accomplished.
The Blow Dry Lounge at Fred Segal Salon, 420 Broadway, Santa Monica, CA; 310-907-4022.
“She’s a little naughty—she likes to break the rules a bit,” coiffing star Orlando Pita said backstage at Derek Lam of the designer’s sixties-era, college coed muse. What kind of rules does she like to break? The decade’s rigid coiffing norms, for starters. “It’s a little bouffant, but not perfectly done,” Pita explained of the high hair, which he slathered with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and spritzed with its Workable Holding Spray before blowing dry, back-combing, and crafting two different variations on the style, including a faux bob and a low, messy ponytail. “There’s no uniformity,” Pita reaffirmed.
“She has a twisted mind,” Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said, adding to the character profile. Like Pita, Pecheux chose to keep things almost perfect—creating a flawless base with Lauder’s forthcoming Invisible Fluid Makeup and carving out an “oval” eye using the burgundy and black shades from its new-for-fall, limited-edition Pure Color Eye Shadow Palette, which he emphasized with black mascara on the top lashes and brown on the bottom using his brand-new, dual-ended Sumptuous Two Tone Eye-Opening Mascara. Cheeks were given a pretty wash of rosy-beige pigment with a mix of Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Blush in Alluring Rose and Brazen Bronze, which was dusted below the apples of the cheeks, rather than on top, to slightly contour and prevent a feeling that was “too teen,” according to Pecheux. Lips were painted a similar shade using a blend of its Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Pink and its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle that Pecheux matted down—as he’s been wont to do this week—with a finger patting of white powder. But there was one slightly “off” element that helped convey the bad-girl directive Lam had given his glam squad: Pecheux drew lashes onto the skin below the lower eyelid so that the models looked like dolls—”twisted dolls,” he asserted.
Backstage at Derek Lam, makeup artist Tom Pecheux was looking west—to California specifically, with its sun-kissed hills and the outstanding homes that dot them. “We talked about Richard Neutra,” Pecheux said. “It was the beginning of that time in architecture when they let the outdoors come in with big windows. That’s what I wanted to translate into the makeup.” As such, Pecheux brushed on a “strong, architectural brow,” with Estée Lauder Cyber Eyes Eyeshadow in Cyber Green and Cyber Copper, which he dusted beneath the brow bone and up through individual hairs, pointing out that powders create a softer look than pencils. Underneath was a wash of sheer canary yellow eye shadow in Rainboots, from a forthcoming five-pan palette. “That comes from the California sun,” Pecheux said of the color, adding a thin black line of pigment along the upper lash line with Lauder’s Intense Kajal Eyeliner in Blackened Olive. Skin was sculpted and bronzed with its new-for-Spring limited-edition Gelée Bronzer, while lips were given a high shine courtesy of a new Pure Color Lipgloss in Citron Kiss, a sheer yellow. “It takes away the pink,” Pecheux said, adding that it can also brighten up any darker, fall lipstick.
Coiffing star Orlando Pita was also drawn to Neutra’s “clean, crisp” lines, which inspired his sleek ponytails. Prepping hair with Phytovolume Actif Spray, Pita created deep side parts and blow-dried with his trusty T3 Featherweight blow-dryer before applying Phyto 7 Daily Hydrating Botanical Cream on the ends to smooth out any jagged tips. Then, gathering hair into a high ponytail, he flat-ironed the lengths, coating them in Phyto Shine Defining Wax for intentional severity. The sheen came from a spritz of Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray—”I didn’t want to do a gelled wet look,” Pita said. “Who wants to wear their hair like that?”
News flash: I am growing my hair back out. After sporting a super-stylish graduated bob for a year and a half, I’ve decided to return to my former, waist-grazing length, partly influenced by the easy seventies hair at shows like Roberto Cavalli and Paul & Joe, and partly because, well, I want long hair again. But gaining six inches of length is easier said than done, and in the grow-out period, you face awkward stages (which I am currently in, as my strands just graze my collarbone) and a lot of split ends. I’ll admit that the split ends are partially my own fault (I haven’t gotten a trim since May—sorry, Thomas Heinz). But the winter weather is also to blame, as cold winds and artificial heat have left my hair somehow both flat and dry. I’ve tried a few deep conditioners to combat the latter issue, but most of them just seem to worsen the former. The latest from Phyto offers up an intriguing alternative, however. Its new Phytolisse Mask features pine pulp extract, an impressive natural ingredient that softens, hydrates, and detangles without weighing hair down. Its other talents include expediting the blow-dry process by straightening the hair shaft and pulling double duty as a shield against environmental aggressors like humidity. Red and brown algae and apricot kernel oil add to the nourishing effort. I will ultimately break down and get a trim. But until that day should come, it looks like I will not be relegated to buns and braids.