5 posts tagged "Polly Osmond"
Banana liner—or banane, as François Nars often refers to the single arched pencil etching that is customarily drawn through the crease of the eye, en Français—is a classic sixties-era makeup mainstay. You may remember seeing it last season at Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Moschino, when the decade experienced its latest resurgence. But there is a way to modernize the popular lid embellishment, as we learned from Gucci Westman at Rag & Bone’s Fall show—and makeup artist Polly Osmond in the new issue of Numéro. “The typical sixties shape starts closer to the nose,” Westman explained backstage in New York, choosing to start her stroke toward the center of the eye and drag it straight out toward the temple, rather than in a more perfect crescent shape. For her part, Osmond went the other direction, starting her line almost on top of model Nadja Bender’s nose and keeping it soft and slightly diffused. “This feels more obscure,” Westman said of the benefits of experimenting with newfangled approaches to old techniques—and making them seem new again in the process.
Between the nonstop shows, the potential for inclement weather, and a party schedule that can make you tired just looking at it, fashion week is an incredibly grueling seven days—no matter who you are. From makeup artists and designers to front-row regulars and street-style hopefuls, everyone needs a little pick-me-up when the Fall collections descend upon New York. Here, ten of our favorite insiders open up their makeup bags to reveal the beauty essentials that help brighten up even the darkest moments.
To elaborate on the short-story theme Tuleh designer Bryan Bradley penned for his Spring presentation yesterday, he chose one of history’s more fascinating characters as backstage muse. That would be Marilyn Monroe, albeit a slightly disheveled version of the iconic actress—”Or me, doing a teenager’s take on Marilyn,” explained makeup artist Polly Osmond. That translated to matte skin and layered pink lids courtesy of MAC Eye Shadows in Rosy Outlook and Perky, which were rimmed on top with MAC Fluidline in Dipdown, a chocolate brown gel that looked infinitely more modern than the Some Like It Hot star’s signature black liquid flick. A similarly rosy pout, painted on with MAC’s forthcoming Lipstick in Victorian—a vivid light pink color that’s a softer, more wearable version of cotton candy—kept this Marilyn firmly in the twenty-first century. For better or worse, Osmond can really only do pure perfection, so the disheveled bit came from the hair department, where R-Session Tools’ Kevin Ryan was running the show. Applying generous amounts of Aveda Volumizing Tonic and Pure Abundance Hair Potion on sections before winding them around a one-inch curling iron, Ryan rolled brushed-out, back-combed tresses and pinned them under to create a “beat-up version” of Monroe’s famous bob. “It’s a bit messed up, not too perfect—Marilyn the morning after, though hopefully not her last morning,” Ryan said. More sexy, less tragic in 2010.
In addition to getting an opportunity to watch some of the best makeup artists in the world play with a selection of as-yet-unreleased cosmetics this week, we got word of a few new launches that we think you might find very interesting. MAC Cosmetics has big plans for black; it will release a still unnamed collection of black lip glosses, lipsticks, eye shadows, and greasepaint sticks later this year, all of which are as versatile as they are straightforward. Cases in point: Polly Osmond used the black lipstick from the new line to create maybe the best gray lip of the week at Tuleh; Charlotte Tilbury applied the new gold-flecked black gloss to eyes for a wet shimmer
at Donna Karan; and Tom Pecheux combined the metallic black Mineralize Eye Shadow with shades of blue and gray for a more complex smoky eye at Badgley Mischka. We were even more intrigued by a tip we got backstage at Doo.Ri, where we learned that manicurist and nail polish creative genius Jin Soon is reportedly partnering with MAC to launch a line of matte nail polishes due out in September. (Like we’ve said before, matte nail polish: huge for fall.) You heard it here first.
Call it a reflection of the somber times, but almost halfway through fashion week, gray is emerging as the makeup color for Fall. It’s popped up on eyes and nails, but we’re most fascinated with its appearance on lips—odd, yes, but also timelessly beautiful, in an accessible way that last Fall’s black glosses never managed to be. We’ve already discussed Dick Page’s eye-liner experiments in this blog. Well, they were trumped by Polly Osmond’s handiwork last night at Tuleh. Channeling the vampy elegance of thirties Paris, Osmond blanked out lips with a concealer and then dabbed on MAC’s Black Night lipstick, a new shade for Fall, but ever so slightly, leaving a mere remnant of the opaque pigment. If the subtle achromatism is still too morbid for your liking, Osmond recommends adding a touch of a berry on top of the gray (she had MAC’s Dark Side on hand last night).