29 posts tagged "Prabal Gurung"
I first noticed the extreme hair color trend backstage at Prabal Gurung, where model Natalie Westling’s flaming red, Manic Panic hue stood out in a sea of brunettes and blonds. Even if it was a one-off, I found it refreshing to see someone taking a permanent beauty risk. As NYFW progressed, however, it became clear that dye jobs with personality are more of a help than a hindrance when getting cast for Fall 2014. Ola Rudnicka sports the ever-popular platinum this season, but setting her apart are hot-pink highlights. A rainbow of dye jobs ran rampant at DKNY, where gray, lavender, cobalt, and highlighter-yellow strands made their way down the runway. Peter Som also incorporated color, adding in stonewashed purple and coral extensions painted by Wella pro Alexandra Matiz. Singer Annie Clark (aka St. Vincent) arrived backstage at Diane von Furstenberg with lilac curls. Catwalker and fellow performer Karen Elson exclaimed, “Annie, your hair!” when she sat down in the makeup chair across from her at the show. I’m as equally exuberant about the trend.
Model Natalie Westling opened Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 bombed-out beach show and went on to walk Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, among others. She also recently appeared alongside Miley Cyrus in Jacobs’ latest campaign. Backstage at Prabal Gurung, however, was the first time we got to see her new Manic Panic dye job in all its fiery glory. She went bright red about a week ago for yet another MJ ad lensed by David Sims—this time for his extensive line of beauty products. “No one has this hair color, so it’s cool to be able to rock it,” Westling said. Asked what she calls this vibrant hue: “Ariel red.” Little Mermaid, we love that you’re a part of our NYFW world.
The inspiration for Prabal Gurung’s collection started in Mustang, a “secluded kingdom” high in the Himalayas in Nepal where the designer went trekking during a visit home. “What I really loved about the whole place was the incredible colors and incredible way of dressing—it’s almost like sportswear, because they have to layer everything,” he explained. The spirit of Gurung’s woman, however, remains the same season after season, no matter where his travels take him: “It’s a femininity with bite,” he said. For Fall 2014 he moved away from the formaldehyde-dipped strands and neo-pastel pouts created for Spring, and opted for “great skin,” “beautiful hair,” and “tactile clothes.” That element of strength key to his aesthetic comes courtesy of “natural femininity and natural beauty.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept with the spirit of the clothes by using MAC Cosmetics Face and Body foundation to even models complexions, forgoing powder to create a dewy finish. Just the apples were flushed with a ruddy-colored cream blush, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate was dabbed along the tops of the cheekbones and across the center of the lids to highlight. Eye Kohl in Fascinating (a white pencil) was used on the lower waterlines to brighten, while Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut was used to contour the crease and hollows of the cheeks. Brows were brushed up, filled in with a corresponding shadow (like Omega, Bark, or Concrete) and set with wax for a “bushy” finish. To tone down any redness in the lips, Kendal applied a touch of foundation to models’ mouths.
Manicurist Jin Soon also focused on simplicity, using two of the three forthcoming Sally Hansen nail lacquers in the designer’s limited-edition polish line out in September: Himalaya (a nude) and Rupee Red (a bold burgundy). The majority of girls received clean, sand-colored paint jobs, while five had a straight, vertical line drawn down the pointer, middle, and ring fingers.
Directing my attention to the designer’s mood board at the hair and makeup test, mane master Paul Halon pointed out a photo of a Nepalese woman with straight, glossy, center-parted strands—his jumping off point for the style. To re-create it for the modern, urban consumer, he used Chi Volume Booster at the roots “to give hair guts” and applied Silk Infusion to the ends before blowing everything straight with a round brush. For movement, he pulled the length up into a loose bun, spritzed it with Infra Texture Hair Spray, heated the makeshift knot using a diffuser, and finally blasted it with a shot of cold air. “When you undo it you get a little kink, but I don’t want to use a tong because it [starts to] look cosmetic very quickly,” he said. The hair was then topped off with a silver chokerlike necklace designed by Gurung, or pulled back into a low ponytail with a black band. “When they walk, it’s very light, very airy,” he said of the final result—almost like a brisk mountain breeze was blowing down the catwalk.
“We’re incorporating the untouched world into the city,” Prabal Gurung explained of the beauty look for his Fall 2014 collection. For Paul Hanlon that meant straight, center-parted strands taken from a photo of a woman in Mustang, a district of Nepal. Makeup artist Diane Kendal used MAC Cosmetics to create “flushed” cheeks, dewy skin, and defined brows for that mountain-fresh feel. Here, how it is all came together at the hair and makeup test: click to view the slideshow.
For Prabal Gurung’s first print campaign, he revealed the image not in a glossy, but via social media—tempting his followers with pieces to the final puzzle on Instagram. So it comes as no surprise that he’s teasing his Fall 2014 collection in the same manner—posting a photo with the caption “Inspired by Mustang” (a village high in the Himalayas in Gurung’s native Nepal). “I go [home] once a year—it’s the only way to keep me grounded,” he said. The designer also blasted out a mood board (although it’s not the mood board), with another clue as for what’s to come: “Seeing red for Fall 2014.”
Thanks to MAC Cosmetics, who snuck me into the hair and makeup test, I got a preview of the look. Last season gave us retro pastel lips and formaldehyde-dipped strands, but today you’ll see hair (by Paul Hanlon) and makeup (created by Diane Kendal) that’s much more, as Gurung explained, “nonchalant.” The evening was over almost as quickly as it began, as both pros nailed the look right off the bat. “I can’t believe how fast it was!” he noted. I won’t spoil the surprise with any more insights, but I will say that after seeing the goods, I’d actually consider taking a trek just to see where this beauty and fashion journey began. And trust me, the only hiking I do is from show to show.
Get the full report here on Beauty Counter after the models hit the runway.