24 posts tagged "Prabal Gurung"
If you’re unfamiliar with Japanese artist Nobuyoshi Araki’s work, the retina-burning ombré pink lips at Prabal Gurung were likely a bit of a jarring site. But put in the context of the photographer’s vivid images of exotic blooms, the mouths made perfect sense. “It’s like there is an intoxicating flower coming out of her mouth,” makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury said of the different shades of MAC Lipmix she applied in gradation from deep purple to magenta to fuchsia. “Its a play on darkness and light.” Pouts were kept matte to contrast with dewy, highlighted skin and purposely overdrawn at the corners “as though she’s been snogging,” said Tilbury, pointing out that the key to coloring outside the lines is to use a soft, melted pencil without a sharp tip so you “keep from looking like a drag queen.” To further acheive that delicate balance between looking “sensual, but strong and powerful” at the same time, Tilbury swept an elongated stroke of silver gray cream eye shadow across the crease of models’ lids.
Coiffing star Didier Malige was happy to hone in on the strong and powerful end of that dichotomy, slicking back hair into a middle-parted wet look. “The [Prabal Gurung] woman is super confident. She has nothing to hide,” Malige said, prepping strands with Frederic Fekkai Coiff Extra Control Styling Gel and finger-combing it backward before adding a generous helping of its Brilliant Glossing Sheer Shine mist for added glisten. To set the sleek look, Malige spritzed on Fekkai’s Coiff Sheer Hold Hairspray.
The piece de resistance came by way of Jin Soon Choi’s tasteful touch of nail art. Starting with a base coat of Sally Hansen’s Lacy Lilac lacquer, Choi added a centralized stroke of its Loves Me Not, a shimmering aubergine that’s part of Gurung’s latest polish collection for the nail giant (the three piece range hits stores in April). “I’m calling it a slim silhouette–not a reverse French manicure,” Choi clarified. “I hate that!”
Prabal Gurung’s Great Expectations-inspired collection made for an interesting backstage beauty muse. “She’s a lovely, romantic girl on her way to becoming a nasty witch,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux. This meant buffed, porcelain skin and what Pecheux described as a “mean eye,” which centered on a diffused smokiness that was much more concentrated on the inner corners of the eye and dragged up toward the brow bone using MAC’s forthcoming Pro Longwear Eye Shadow in Legendary, a black powder with a hint of gold shimmer. Brows were filled in and left full while lashes were kept natural and devoid of mascara. The finishing touch came via MAC Lipstick in One of a Kind, a nude pink that’s new for fall, which Pecheux applied to models’ mouths and on top of eyelids. “It catches the light and looks romantic, but it could also look like she has an eye infection,” he quipped. Frédéric Fekkai hairstylist Didier Malige was going for something unkempt and “bohemian” with accents of pink or blue streaks buried beneath a mass of texture—a look he made famous back in 2009 when it first premiered at Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2010 show.
Prepping hair with Fekkai’s Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray, Malige added larger waves up front while keeping the back slightly ratted, as though “she’d slept on it last night.” It was a big departure from last season’s sleek silhouette, but one that worked surprisingly well with the déshabillé feel of Gurung’s clothes.
Last year was the season of the nail, as far as we’re concerned, and with three days of shows under our belts so far this week, it’s safe to say that pro tips will continue their dominance for Fall. Prabal Gurung can consider himself among the vanguard when it comes to fashion’s collective lacquer love as the designer partnered with Sally Hansen on a high-profile polish collaboration back in September. To show his continued dedication to the cause, Gurung has decided to go for round two with the mass market nail giant, debuting his second varnish collection at his show this afternoon. Among the five-piece range are Dorian Grey (a muted slate); a palette of pinks, reds, and oranges in Madame X, Ballet Rouges, and Courtesan; and Crinoline, a creamy pale pink that manicurist Jin Soon Choi used as a base at the show. But it’s what she put on top of it that really impressed us. “It’s inspired by Asian painting styles and calligraphy,” she said of the speckled black ink spills she hand scrawled onto individual nails with Sally Hansen’s Midnight in New York. “We thought about doing moon manicures but many people have done that already,” she explained of the printed polish’s inception, adding that she “wanted the nails to be as creative as [Prabal's] clothes.” To which we say, mission accomplished.
Sand, flesh, taupe—whatever you want to call it, the nail color that cropped up on many a fingertip at the Spring 2011 collections wasn’t much of a color at all. At Marc Jacobs, Creative Nail Design crafted foundation-hued manicures; at Narciso Rodriguez, Deborah Lippmann topped beige nails with a coat of shiny shimmer; at Erin Fetherston, the polish of choice was Dashing Diva’s Chelsea in the Buff; and at Prabal Gurung, the glimmering nude Without a Stitch from the designer’s collection for Sally Hansen was accented by a narrow stripe of coral. This new breed of nail lacquers is a big departure from Spring’s traditional candy colors, but after many months of crimsons, purples, and grays, it’s a welcome palette cleanser. Along with go-to barely-there shades like NARS Candy Darling and Butter London’s Yummy Mummy (Alexander Wang’s backstage favorite), there are three new options to consider. Deborah Lippmann’s Naked is, as the name implies, a clean beige; it graced nails at both ADAM and Richie Rich, where it received a black accent nail (obviously). Creative Nail Design’s Perfectly Bare Pair is a limited-edition duo of perfect, peach-tinted lacquers in cream and shimmering finishes that can be worn alone or in tandem. And Essie’s Sand Tropez is a warm limestone that will no doubt prove to be an easy transition for all you greige devotees. Sometimes, it’s the most subtle statements that speak the loudest.
Deborah Lippmann Naked lacquer, $16, www.deborahlippmann.com; Creative Nail Design Perfectly Bare Pair, $20, www.cnd.com; Essie Sand Tropez, $8, at salons nationwide.
Not so long ago, we lived for barrettes. In seventh grade, it was plastic baby clips in the mold of ducks, birds, and other similarly infantile shapes, and then it was barrettes of the multicolored, mini-sized Goody variety, which have since been discontinued and which we buy in bulk should we happen upon them at an outdated pharmacy. So, you can understand why we’re quite pleased to see the youthful hair accessory having a major moment for Spring. We’ve already mentioned the chunky plastic pieces Cynthia Rowley whipped up for her show this weekend and the plain silver metal bars hair stylist Odile Gilbert used to create a sleek, graphic silhouette at Prabal Gurung. And it just keeps getting better! Orlando Pita and his crack team of coif masters assembled barrettes covered in actual hair to hold and seamlessly blend into models’ own tresses at Carolina Herrera on Monday, mimicking the silhouette of fluid, belted Korean robes. Then yesterday, Peter Gray strung up bejewled golden charms onto bobby pins and inserted them into big, soft, Seventies-era coifs at Badgley Mischka before a rousing Rodarte show where Gilbert was called on yet again to insert ten different barrettes the Mulleavy sisters made with their own hands into sixties-style, rough-dried, easy, California-girl hair. It was cute, it was classic, and it looked amazing with their gold dresses, which we definitely wouldn’t have appreciated back in middle school, but would love to slip into now. Some things change, some stay the same.