39 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Renée Simonsen
The Moment: Going Back to the Basics
The Motivation: If New York’s Spring 2014 collections are any indication, over-the-top color—with the exception of a statement lip in vibrant shades of orange, pink, and lilac—is taking a backseat to pristine skin and barely there makeup. From Donna Karan to Proenza Schouler to Narciso Rodriguez, an au naturel finish was the goal, and it’s a look that has stood the test of time. When we spotted this image of model Renée Simonsen, we were struck by her fresh face in a time of serious excess (sure, a slightly smoky eye is present, but it doesn’t overpower her porcelain skin and pared-down pout). It seems that even in 1988—when blue eye shadow, rouged cheeks, and frosted lipstick ran rampant—less was more.
The underlying beauty theme at Proenza Schouler: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. For hairstylist Paul Hanlon, that meant adding a central—but not perfect—part and keeping the gentle fuzz intact at the top of the head. “What you’d normally control, we’re not,” he said. Since the show was in the morning this season, Hanlon didn’t have to worry about product buildup; instead, he used Fekkai Glossing Conditioner (normally rinsed out) as a leave-in treatment and applied Coiff Controle Ironless Straightening Balm from mid-length through to the ends to weigh down strands. (His inspiration for the lank look came from Dogtown and Z-Boys, a documentary about a posse of seventies skater and surfer boys in California, and photographer Joseph Szabo’s book Teenage.) He then blew hair dry with fingers, as a brush would make it too even, and flat-ironed the underlayers around the ears and nape of the neck to eliminate volume, leaving the texture on the surface untouched.
Makeup artist Diane Kendal took an even more minimal approach, brushing brows up and filling them in only when necessary, and curling the lashes but not adding mascara. MAC Lip Conditioner (a clear balm) was used on both lips and lids for a hint of shine, while Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder was dusted on the T-zone to mattify. The only color on the face was Pleasure Model Extra Dimension Blush (available spring/summer 2014), which Kendal tapped onto the apples of the cheeks with her fingertips. “We’re keeping the girls as they are,” she said. Refreshing.
While a natural, beige nail seems to have won out this season at New York fashion week (appearing at Derek Lam, Vera Wang, and Michael Kors among many others), the manicurist at Proenza Schouler has no intentions of going bare:
“Nail art has been alive for years—Brooklyn, Queens, Harlem, Detroit—for me it never dies. It may go down to a solid [color] or something more mild [for Spring 2014], but I’m always going to have a party.”
And to that, we say: Lacquer up and dance like nobody’s watching.
When it comes to hair color, model Heather Marks has run the gamut—from blond for Resort 2013 to auburn for Fall 2012 and brunette for Fall 2009. Only hours ago, I spotted her backstage at Proenza Schouler making a last-minute shade change (a direction given by the designers). “They’ve got a little section with two or three girls with red hair,” said hairstylist Paul Hanlon. (The other gingers on the runway included Irina Kravchenko and Magdalena Jasek, all wearing crimson—whether it was a suede dress, cropped trousers, or threaded throughout a shaggy jacket.) Although many girls have gone for varying shades of platinum and champagne for Spring 2014, I’m excited to see someone finally venture into more fiery territory.
The typically glossy-haired and polished Miranda Kerr shows that she can get down and dirty—at least for Mango’s Fall punk-inspired campaign. Her bed-head-y waves, created by hair legend Christiaan, are reminiscent of the “skinny” strands we saw this past season at Proenza Schouler. And the barely there makeup—lived-in and slightly greasy shadow, smudgy liner, natural lipstick, with a focus on strong brows—also made us think of face painter Diane Kendal’s approach at the same Fall show. Kerr recently revealed to Marie Claire UK that she felt just as sexy working this pared-down look as she does a bedazzled bra and a blow-out: “I loved that Inez and Vinoodh [the Dutch photographers who snapped these incredible images] kept the look of the campaign very raw and natural, and I think it complements the collection very well.” Bottom line: We love when an Angel goes grunge.