37 posts tagged "Proenza Schouler"
While a natural, beige nail seems to have won out this season at New York fashion week (appearing at Derek Lam, Vera Wang, and Michael Kors among many others), the manicurist at Proenza Schouler has no intentions of going bare:
“Nail art has been alive for years—Brooklyn, Queens, Harlem, Detroit—for me it never dies. It may go down to a solid [color] or something more mild [for Spring 2014], but I’m always going to have a party.”
And to that, we say: Lacquer up and dance like nobody’s watching.
When it comes to hair color, model Heather Marks has run the gamut—from blond for Resort 2013 to auburn for Fall 2012 and brunette for Fall 2009. Only hours ago, I spotted her backstage at Proenza Schouler making a last-minute shade change (a direction given by the designers). “They’ve got a little section with two or three girls with red hair,” said hairstylist Paul Hanlon. (The other gingers on the runway included Irina Kravchenko and Magdalena Jasek, all wearing crimson—whether it was a suede dress, cropped trousers, or threaded throughout a shaggy jacket.) Although many girls have gone for varying shades of platinum and champagne for Spring 2014, I’m excited to see someone finally venture into more fiery territory.
The typically glossy-haired and polished Miranda Kerr shows that she can get down and dirty—at least for Mango’s Fall punk-inspired campaign. Her bed-head-y waves, created by hair legend Christiaan, are reminiscent of the “skinny” strands we saw this past season at Proenza Schouler. And the barely there makeup—lived-in and slightly greasy shadow, smudgy liner, natural lipstick, with a focus on strong brows—also made us think of face painter Diane Kendal’s approach at the same Fall show. Kerr recently revealed to Marie Claire UK that she felt just as sexy working this pared-down look as she does a bedazzled bra and a blow-out: “I loved that Inez and Vinoodh [the Dutch photographers who snapped these incredible images] kept the look of the campaign very raw and natural, and I think it complements the collection very well.” Bottom line: We love when an Angel goes grunge.
This time of year, all I have to do is walk out the door for a halo of frizz to spring up. My naturally curly shoulder-length cut is super-reactive to the humidity. When our beauty editor Celia Ellenberg (who has now left us to freelance—good for her, bad for me) mentioned Julien Farel’s new Zero Frizz Quickie Treatment, it was a fairly easy sell. I liked the fact that it wasn’t a straightening process. Despite the positive feedback I usually get after a visit to Drybar, I’m not a blow-out kind of girl. Where my hair is concerned, at least, I’m a pretty firm believer in “work with what you’ve got.” The service, which combines hydrolyzed keratin and Farel’s Zero Frizz Restore serum, is designed to smooth and soften hair without eliminating body and volume. It’s formaldehyde-free and fairly odorless, which means there were no respiratory masks or teary eyes involved, and I was in and out the door in an hour and a half. Another couple of perks: You don’t have to wait the traditional seventy-two hours to wash your hair, the way you do with a true Keratin treatment, and at $200, it costs significantly less than a Brazilian Blowout. Farel said the effects would last six to eight weeks, practically until Labor Day. Not quite straight but significantly softer, my relaxed waves got a couple of nods of approval at the couture shows in Paris last week. One editor friend of mine even compared my new ’do to “Proenza Schouler hair.” Perfectly imperfect—that’s a compliment I could hear all summer.
The service is available at Julien Farel salons in New York and Miami.
The Proenza Schouler woman has such a signature low-key beauty look that we often wonder if Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez even have to instruct hairstylist Paul Hanlon and makeup artist Diane Kendal what to do at this point. Following a few twists and turns at the preshow test for Fall, however, it turns out there was, in fact, a specific directive: “They asked me to do the hair I did for them two seasons ago,” Hanlon revealed backstage.
For those of you who need a refresher course, that was the season Hanlon coined the term “skinny hair,” for which he washed every girl’s locks on site, to start with the most natural texture possible, before removing excess volume and weighing strands down with product. “They’re architectural couture clothes for Fall, but there’s a reality to them, so we don’t want the hair to look too groomed,” he explained, coating strands with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Perfecteur Anti-Frizz Silkening Crème to create a “lank” effect before applying its Defense Pre-Style Thermal/UV Protectant to add moisture. Then, fashioning side parts that he tucked behind models’ ears, Hanlon applied a liberal amount of its COIFF Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray to add a “roughness, like if the girls had been wearing a beanie.”
Kendal wasn’t so much told to re-create her work from past shows, but she’s become so adept at channeling the design duo’s downtown cool aesthetic that it’s almost second nature at this point. “This season is a riff on classicism, so it’s a bit of a more feminine approach for them,” Kendal pointed out, “but they still wanted their girls to be their girls.” Cue the perfected complexions with MAC’s Studio Fix Powder for a velvety base, the boyish brows that were brushed up with its Clear Brow Finisher Wax, and a fine stroke of black cream shadow drawn against the upper lash line in lieu of mascara. There was one new development here, in the form of MAC’s Red Statement Lipstick from its forthcoming Fall Trend palette, which Kendal applied to cheeks as a transparent blush. “But it’s very sheer, so you can’t really see it,” she assured us.