13 posts tagged "Raf Simons"
Getting ahold of one of the most in-demand makeup artists during Paris fashion week is a feat unto itself, but I finally managed to snag Pat McGrath (for one minute and twelve seconds, to be exact) to discuss the gilded details at Dior.
The “brocade” brows covered in layers of glue, metallic theatrical paint, and glitter were as textural as they were striking—appearing as if they were cast from the precious metal itself. McGrath built upon this element (similar to the approach taken at Derek Lam) by adding “organic sweeps” of the same paint on lids and lower lash lines. The third and final touch was a band of baby blue or sea foam green eyeliner that played upon Raf Simons’ flora-strewn wonderland.
While you wouldn’t catch the majority of the fashion and beauty set within a mile radius of the Golden Arches, I have a feeling they’ll be lusting after the looks McGrath was serving up on the runway.
In contrast to the futuristic-looking golden arches, gilded lids, and flashes of color rimmed along the upper lash lines (more to come on the maquillage later), the hair created by Guido Palau was “classic Dior.” “Raf [Simons] didn’t want to reference a particular era,” the hairstylist explained—so, when in doubt, a simple chignon was made modern with a “boyish” side part and a slick comb-over. Palau used Redken Hardwear 16 (a strong-hold gel) for hold and shape, twisted strands into a low knot, and secured in place near the nape of the neck. Shine Flash 02 was misted all over to mimic the metallic finish created with makeup only inches below.
It’s only been a year since Raf Simons took the reins at the house of Dior—which has amounted to two ready-to-wear shows, two Couture shows, one Resort presentation, and one Pre-Fall outing so far. Yet in that short amount of time, he and his trusted backstage team of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau have collaborated on a rather impressive beauty highlight reel. Neon lashes, chrome liquid liners, Swarovski crystal-studded lips, and sleek strands that defy the traditional conception of runway hair have helped make Simons’ shows a must-see part of the Paris calendar.
“What people don’t know is that when we do shows, we really have to find the right woman,” McGrath said, speaking to the new Dior archetype that can pull off the dazzling metallic mouths she created using a special theatrical glue and three different highly reflective pigments for Simon’s Fall Couture show, his third for the brand. “She’s steeped in Diorness, but also very futuristic,” Palau interjected of the character they had collectively helped build while describing the Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel-slicked, low-lying wrapped knots he shellacked straight back for the presentation. “[Raf] doesn’t want to re-create the couture era. He’s very forward thinking,” Palau continued. If this is what progress looks like, we’re all in.
“It’s a mouth in full bloom,” Pat McGrath told our man on the ground in Monaco this weekend backstage at Christian Dior’s Cruise show. “It’s more intensely pink,” the makeup artist said, referring to the bold fuchsia color she revived for Resort following Fall’s blurred-around-the-edges iteration of the same color. Looking for a “lightness of skin” and, more specifically, a “lightness of eye—lighter than the ready-to-wear [show]“—McGrath diffused a pearly white, shimmering pewter shadow from the inner corners of the eyes toward the temples, rather than return to the precise liquid chrome pen she preferred back in March. “Raf [Simons] said he wanted to ‘feel the girl’—really see her beauty,” she continued, keeping brows groomed and skin slightly sporty with highlights on the cheekbones.
In an effort to keep things from becoming too “over-referenced,” Guido Palau went with the “sophisticated simplicity” of a slicked-down, center-parted ponytail gathered low at the nape of the neck. “There was a future thought,” he admitted, explaining that Simons did mention the 1997 sci-fi flick Gattaca, but without the theatrical undertones. A damp, piece-y texture through the lengths ensured that strands registered as undeniably modern.
When the models walked out at Raf Simons Spring Dior Couture show, their makeup caused just as may gasps as the beautiful gowns—with pockets!—that Simons sent onto the runway. “Are those…crystals? On their lips?” many in the audience wondered of the texturized shine flickering on models’ mouths (they were), which was followed by a few awe-inspired coos over some of the most precise flicked-up cat-eyes on record. How were they created? With the Diorshow Art Pen, we’d learn later, which was but a dream back in January. This month, however, the rich onyx felt-tip pen with the perfect point hit shelves making gorgeous winged liner applications newly possible—but not necessarily any easier; the essential tool gives you everything you need to expertly rim your upper lash line, except, of course, an expert hand. When paired with another new release form the brand, however, that shouldn’t matter much. Dior’s Flash Corretor Pen is so genius, we squealed a little as we removed it from its glossy black box. The double-sided wand features a makeup remover-soaked eraser tip on one side, and three replacement heads on the other, so you can sculpt any semblance of a straight stroke into a real, runway-ready achievement. Bonus: The life-altering stick also works wonders on the lip line and underneath lids to catch mascara smudges throughout the day.