15 posts tagged "Rag & Bone"
Since signing on as the face of Burberry a few seasons ago Cara Delevingne has gone from Poppy’s little sister to the girl with the mega brows—in our book at least. Delevingne opened Christopher Bailey’s Spring show in London in a world exclusive for Burberry, but that was last season. And, well, this is this season. After turning up on the Chanel couture runway in January, the 19 year old Brit has officially crossed the pond and is getting ready for a Fall coming out party. “This is my first time in New York. I haven’t done any other seasons ever,” she effused at Rag & Bone after making a runway turn earlier in the day at Jason Wu. “Im so happy to be here—I’ll be doing Paris and Milan, too,” Delevingne explained—after her Burberry exclusive in London, of course. As makeup artist Gucci Westman touched her up last night, we asked Delevingne what she brought with her from home to help keep her complexion in shape for the long road of shows ahead. “I’ve never been very good at taking care of my skin,” she insisted (although her radiant, completely blemish free face suggested otherwise). “I just use Simple Face Wipes and Skinceuticals serum,” she told us. “And my eyebrow gel. I need a shit load of that! I either use MAC or Anastasia—the clear one. I don’t need any more dark in my eyebrows.” Look out for more of Cara and her enviable arches at Carolina Herrera and Derek Lam this week.
“When you have a brand with a signature feeling, you kind of just go with it,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said backstage at Rag & Bone, referencing designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s signature style. And so, as she has in nearly every season past, the downtown cool girl reared her languid, texturized head of hair yet again. There were “Patti Smith goes to India” references being bandied about as well, but not in any kind of literal way. “She’s a traveler but she’s still rock ‘n’ roll,” Palau clarified, explaining why strands were a little bit more “dread-y” than usual thanks to Redken’s Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, which was slathered onto wet strands. Palau then added its Rough Paste 12 Working Material paste once the hair was dry. “It defines the texture,” he said of the sculpting product, as he set hair in twists to allow for movement.
The India component was actually Revlon artistic director Gucci Westman’s idea. “The boys were inspired by the jump in severe poverty and wealth [there],” Westman explained, which led her directly to that classic Indian beauty staple enjoyed by women of all income brackets: kohl eye liner. “I used three different eyeliners—a gel, a kohl pencil, and a liquid,” Westman said of her application technique, which relied heavily on Revlon Crème Gel Liner in Black, its Luxurious Color Eye Liner in Black, and its Liquid Liner in Blackest Black. For a slight change of pace, the face painter opted to trace the lower lid only, smudging as she went so it looked rough, “like decay.” Skin was kept “porcelain-y” thanks to a precise layering effort of a blend of skin correctors and luminizers, including the highlighter from Westman’s limited-edition shadow palette for fall in Midnight Express. To ensure that the effect was “pure and angelic,” she misted models with water as they hit the runway for an instant dewy look.
“It’s the best Spring collection they’ve ever done,” Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman effused backstage at Rag & Bone. Mrs. David Neville is admittedly a little biased, but the layered pops of orange, green, and aqua in Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s surfer girls-at-a-rave presentation were certainly eye-catching-which is precisely why Westman chose to keep the makeup relatively muted. “I didn’t want to complicate things,” she explained, powdering models’ complexions to counteract the shininess that had cropped up on everyone’s face backstage—the Miami Heat’s Dwayne Wade included—thanks to the hot and humid weather. To achieve the kind of “healthy, vacation-y, effortless, and easy” finish she was after, Westman used Revlon Powder Blush in Tawny Peach and its Powder Bronzer to impart a natural flush, before carving out lids with a smudge of its Eyeshadow in 16H Addictive, a dark brown. After she lined lashes with Revlon’s Luxurious Color Eyeliner in Sueded Brown for added definition, Westman painted on a muted nude lip using its Super Lustrous Lipstick in Demure and Silver City Pink. Nail guru Jin Soon Choi also kept it neutral, coating nails with Revlon Nail Enamel in Smoky Canvas, a flattering shade of cool pale gray. “I’m over greige,” Choi said of the warmer slate hues that have been popular in seasons past.
The rave vibe was also alive and well in Guido Palau’s “easy, modern hippie” hair, which he prepped with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blowdry Lotion and gave a natural bend using Sulta’s Multi-Purpose Iron, before sticking a pair of clear goggle-like glasses above each model’s hairline. Luckily, the candy-flipping tribute ended there. We’re happy to report that nary a pacifier necklace or glow stick was spotted.
Guido Palau is a hair genius. For Spring 2011 alone, he has been responsible for the season-defining seventies frizz at Marc Jacobs, the gelled-up finger waves at Prada, and the platinum blond craze, which he ignited at Balenciaga and which will likely persevere through much of next year. But after our fair share of seasons charting Palau’s backstage triumphs, we noticed something: When the coif master likes something, he keeps with it.
Usually these repeat runway appearances begin at Alexander Wang. After debuting the wildly popular thick, over-the-shoulder Brooke Shields-inspired side braid there for Spring 2010, he promptly revisited the style at Miu Miu only a few short weeks later. Ditto the Fall shows, where Palau went with greasy, side-parted comb-overs at Wang only to bring them out again at Bottega Veneta in Milan. This season, his fallback seems to be wet hair. Hair that looks like “you’ve just gotten out of the shower,” he said at Rag & Bone, sweeping models’ hair up into messy buns. It was as though each girl were “rushing out of her apartment on the way to work and [let] her hair dry naturally,” as he described the nearly dripping, defined middle parts he created backstage at Bottega Veneta.
At Lanvin, Palau referenced “scuba” when slicking back what appeared to be water-saturated low ponytails (turns out Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super Strong gel can impressively simulate deep-sea diving). With only three days of shows left, it’s unclear if we’ll see yet another incarnation of the “damp” look, but all signs point to yes.
If there’s one thing you can say about the Rag & Bone girl, it’s that she’s consistent. Her cool, downtown, sexy “sense of realism,” as makeup artist Gucci Westman puts it, doesn’t change from season to season. “This year, she’s going on a journey,” Westman said of David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s female archetype. “To meet Peter Lindbergh in the eighties with Linda Evangelista as a role model,” to be exact. Said jaunt translated into windswept cheeks, which Westman created using Revlon’s Cream Blush in Berry Flirtatious, disheveled dewy skin, and a lived-in eye that the face painter built using the gray and brown pigments from her Multi Use Palette for Revlon in Suede Rhapsody. Lashes were given definition with a touch of liquid liner in between individual hairs in lieu of mascara, while brows were treated to a glossy finish courtesy of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream and a touch of Brilliant Diamant hairspray, which Westman borrowed from hairstylist Guido Palau. As for the hair, it was a little too real for us. Palau saturated strands with Redken’s Anti-Snap leave-in treatment, its Glass smoothing serum, and spritzes of water before pushing them back in a plain, American Apparel black headband and twisting them up. “It’s meant to look like you’ve just gotten out of the shower and you were traveling,” Palau said, taking pieces out around the hairline and matting them down onto the face. We would never travel in such a state, but, then, we’ve never been asked to pose for Peter Lindbergh. If he asked, like Linda, we’d probably oblige.