174 posts tagged "Redken"
Three words both Pat McGrath and Guido Palau used to describe the hair and makeup at Jil Sander: “Very, very natural.” Both artists let each model’s character take center stage instead of creating an entirely new persona. McGrath lightly contoured lids with a taupe shadow, brows were groomed, and lips were layered with balm. “Simply beautiful,” she said of the finished face.
Palau staked his claim on the two sinks backstage, using them to wash each girl’s hair with Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo. Strands were left to air-dry before they were spritzed with Pillow Proof Two Day Extender, a dry shampoo, for additional texture. Despite the designer departing her eponymous label for the third time, the house’s signature look holds strong.
A ring of fire surrounded a pool of water in the center of the circular runway, but the collection at Roberto Cavalli wasn’t Hunger Games-inspired, although Look 36—a gown with flames rising from the hem—might have said otherwise. In fact, there was no muse at all, noted Guido Palau, who doused strands with Redken Shine Flash for a “greasy” vibe before raking them with his fingers into a chignon. He then tied off the length with elastic before personally coiling and pinning all of the models’ “messy knots” into place. The bits he pulled out in front for texture were set in place with Forceful 23 hairspray. “When it gets too overcomplicated, it doesn’t feel sexy anymore,” he said of the relatively simple style.
The makeup by Diane Kendal, however, was a bit more dramatic. The face painter crafted “smoky, extended eyes” that were squared off at the outer corners to avoid a “catty” shape. (There were plenty of felines dangling from models’ necks in pendant form, courtesy of the designer.) A combination of black and brown liners was used in order to create a sense of depth. “Black can be too hard,” Kendal explained. A champagne shadow from MAC was tapped on the center of the lids, a powder blush was rubbed into cheeks with fingertips, and lips were topped with Siss, a flesh color.
Keeping with the nude nail theme that is already quite rampant for Fall 2014, MAC senior artist Keri Blair blended two lacquers, Quiet Time (a cool, grayish hue) and Thimbleweed (a warm, peachy shade), to create a polish that flattered a range of skin tones. “It feels a little bit dirty,” she explained. “It’s a rock ‘n’ roll nude.” Standard beige clearly wouldn’t do—the Cavalli woman needs a manicure worthy of pyrotechnics.
Playing off the graphic lines in the collection, hair pro Guido Palau crafted a classic pony. The twist? “They’re made of hair extensions, like a big horse’s tail, and cut very blunt,” he explained. Inspired by nineties minimalism, Palau kept things “sharp” instead of “soft and natural”—an aesthetic the house has stuck with the past few seasons. To get strands super-straight, he used Redken Align 12 to blow-dry hair smooth before it was flat-ironed. Palau then gathered the length at the back of the head, tied it off with a piece of elastic, and wrapped the tail with extensions for thickness—hiding the band with a small section of hair to complete the ultra-clean look.
“It’s not natural, undone nothing [makeup]; it’s natural, but, beautiful and polished,” Pat McGrath noted. For a “fresh” contour, she employed a taupe-y rose blush in lieu of a harsh bronzer. Lids were softly shaped with a beige shadow and brows were simply groomed to finish.
“Donatella simply wanted glamorous, but more of a clean glamour,” explained Pat McGrath. Gone was the smudgy liner from Spring 2014, but the double set of faux lashes remained. Eyes were further emphasized with a taupe shadow in the contours, and brows were softly groomed. A tawny lipstick and gloss polished off the lips. “This is her version of natural makeup,” McGrath said of the designer, who sports a strangely similar look.
The sixties were referenced yet again backstage by Guido Palau, who called upon the era by creating volume at the crown. After extensions were added in for thickness, the rest of the hair was kept “poker straight” using a combination of Redken Pillow Proof Two Day Extender and Guts (a volumizing spray foam), then subsequently flatironed. After backcombing the Bardot-esque bump in with a rattail comb, the style was set with Forceful 23 hair spray. “Per the usual, it’s very glamorous hair for a very high-maintenance woman,” Palau summarized. Seeing as this is the house of Versace, we would expect nothing less.
Outside of the clothes, brows were the stars of the show at Christopher Kane. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni brushed arches up and filled them in with NARS Brow Perfector, the finished product resembling a young Brooke Shields. “These brows should look naturally full, not painted on,” Pieroni explained. She created a “shaft of light” down the center of faces with Illuminator in Copacabana and a forthcoming Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Andromeda. Highlights were placed over cheekbones, the bridge and tip of the nose, Cupid’s bow, and chin. A touch of Pure Matte Lipstick in Bangkok was pressed onto models’ mouths like a stain, and lashes—in what has become a defining feature for Fall 2014—were left bare.
Kane simply wanted “the girls to look like how they look,” said mane master Guido Palau. “Younger designers don’t tend to reference iconic women—they get off on how the model looks naturally. Little moments rather than big moments,” he noted. To craft these “little moments,” Palau used Redken’s Shine Flash for texture and sheen, keeping the length fairly straight and flat. To finish, he made a sharp center part and nonchalantly tucked the hair behind the ears. In the end, these subtle nuances brought the larger picture to life.