4 posts tagged "Riccardo Tisci"
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Tyra Banks
The Moment: Seriously Sparkly Eyes
The Motivation: When I came across this shot of Tyra Banks sporting gem-encrusted lids from the nineties, I was intrigued by the similarity it posed to the recent Givenchy show—which saw select models appear on the runway with masks that required more than 2,000 sequins and 1,500 crystals to complete. Admittedly, Pat McGrath’s version for Riccardo Tisci took the concept to glittery new levels, but I’ll be looking to Banks’ slightly more pared-down version for inspiration this Halloween.
There was plenty to lust over at Givenchy. That jacket in look fifteen immediately comes to mind, although we are still thinking about nearly every single aspect of the exceptional forty-eight-piece collection Riccardo Tisci showed for the house—including that hair. “[Riccardo] called me in Milan and said, ‘I want to have a test with you and only you’—it was a test of eight hours,” Luigi Murenu recalls of the process by which he and Tisci, with whom he has worked since the designer started at Givenchy eight years ago, decided on the closely cropped, colorful coifs models wore down the runway. “Usually [the hair] here is very organic. But [Riccardo] wanted to bring the show to another level,” says Murenu. “When I arrived at the studio, the first thing he did was play me all the tracks of Antony and the Johnsons, and he told me, ‘It will be extremely emotional, and I want you to bring something sensitive to the hair.’”
So Murenu obliged Tisci with twenty different ideas that were “masculine but extremely feminine—not androgynous,” and, at Tisci’s request, “looked like there were little roses in the head.” The result was a number of tightly wound pin curls that Murenu and his team saturated with Kiehl’s Clean Hold Styling Gel and applied to every girl, no matter her haircut, completely sans extensions. “We used the length of Saskia [de Brauw] to the length of Isabeli [Fontana]—everybody’s natural hair!” he reveals of the deliberately flat swirls that were meant to have a “Victorian punk” quality, even though there was something seemingly thirties about the almost retro bathing-cap silhouette—those neon faux dye jobs aside. “Originally, it was without color,” Murenu admits of what ultimately became temporary shocks of sky blue, dark blue, orange, fuchsia, red, black, purple, and a light pink that was a real crowd-pleaser. “The girls loved it,” he maintains, pointing out that Natalia Vodianova was quite taken with her bubblegum-tinged locks, which went surprisingly well with Pat McGrath’s glossy red-burgundy-stained eyes and clean skin. She certainly wasn’t the only one: catwalkers like Magdalena Frackowiak and Isabeli Fontana kept their hair totally intact to hit the post-show party circuit. “It was extremely special,” Murenu muses. “We wanted to represent the woman who wants to dream, the people who appreciate the poetry of fashion” (to which we say, thank you).
Since Hubert de Givenchy first introduced Interdit, the spicy floral eau he created for Audrey Hepburn in 1957, his legacy has inspired a long list of successful fragrance franchises. Legions already swear by Givenchy’s Irresistible and its jasmine and tea-tinged Ange ou Demon. But the house’s reigning creative director, Riccardo Tisci, has yet to put his personal stamp on a perfume, despite making the label’s fashion shows the hottest ticket in Paris. After six years on the job, he’s finally making his beauty debut with the release of Dahlia Noir. Billed as a “couture” fragrance, “a return to the roots of exceptional French perfumery and absolute luxury,” the scent is reminiscent of the rare, dark-petaled bloom after which it was named and boasts powdery notes of iris, mimosa, and rose with a warm base of sandalwood and patchouli. It just hit shelves today, along with a scented candle, perfuming bath gel, moisturizing body milk, and a lighter “skin dew.” Accompanying the launch is a cinemercial directed by Fabien Baron and starring Givenchy muse Mariacarla Boscono, premiering tomorrow on www.dahlia-noir.com. “It was like the first big project at the start of anyone’s career when the anticipation and enthusiasm are so great,” Boscono says of the shoot that took place in Prague. “The final results are absolutely gorgeous,” she adds—a real compliment considering the catwalker reportedly hates to look at herself in pictures. Judge for yourself in the premiere of this behind-the-scenes teaser.
Dahlia Noir, Riccardo Tisci’s first fragrance for the house of Givenchy, will debut in August and feature a print campaign starring his muse Mariacarla Boscono. Love the visuals. [The Fashion Spot]
In an exciting plot twist, Paris Hilton is not launching another fragrance. A skincare line, however, is in the works. [Female First]
Julia Roberts: also not launching a signature scent—as far as we know. Her latest beauty coup features golden highlights, which lightened up her dark chestnut locks at the Tribeca Film Festival this weekend. [Bella Sugar]