13 posts tagged "Rick Owens"
There was a mash-up of the beauty variety last night at The Box in London. Rita Ora’s look was reminiscent of the soft “Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver” curls that Guido Palau created at Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2013 show and the sculptural, frizzy wigs Luigi Murenu coiffed for Rick Owens’ Spring 2013 collection. Two heads, as they say, are better than one.
Yes, there are twenty-six ways to wink. i-D celebrates all of them (and 33 years of their signature cover pose) in a video featuring everyone from Cara Delevingne to Rick Owens.
Taryn Manning of Orange Is the New Black arrived on the red carpet for the International Emmy Awards sporting platinum strands. It looks as if the brunette-to-blond
red-carpet epidemic is set to continue.
In other hair news, Rihanna’s doobie is still going strong. She hit Drake’s concert in L.A. last night wearing the same Dominican hair salon-inspired style she sported at the AMAs.
Teens are often masters of invention, and when given a bottle of nail-polish remover, the possibilities extend far beyond neatening a chipped manicure. Two 19-year-old roommates in Liverpool helped robbers clean dye-pack-splashed bills with this beauty product. [The Cut]
All season long makeup artists and hairstylists have been riffing on “real girl” beauty backstage—leaving strands and complexions purposely au naturel so that the consumer can more easily imagine herself wearing the clothes. But at the end of the day, as Tom Pecheux put it at Balmain, supermodels are still supermodels—and the rest of us are just “real.” But the unlikely lineup of forty step dancers from Washington, D.C., and New York City-based crews (Momentum, Soul Steps, Zetas, Washington Divas) at Rick Owens was an exuberant celebration of authenticity. “The whole point was to make them look and feel pretty,” said Owens. “If a girl didn’t feel comfortable with something, we didn’t do it—we wanted them to feel powerful.”
To emphasize their dynamic movements, hair pro Luigi Murenu designed four different styles. The first being a fluffy texture that he aptly dubbed “dandelion heads,” created by straightening strands, “biting” them with a crimping iron, and brushing out the kinks with a Mason Pearson to get a “cotton candy-like” finish that flew with each aggressive stomp. The other three included a slicked-back chignon (which he formed using Kérastase Vinyle Nutri-Sculpt and hair spray, sometimes fitting the dancer with a “nunlike” veil), stick-straight hair with center parts, and low, sleek ponytails.
“What they’re doing is so ‘wow’ that it’s about them and the clothes—it’s not really about this bit,” face painter Lucia Pieroni said of the “fresh” makeup. “There’s no particular thing on everybody,” she added. Pieroni used a light layer of foundation and concealer, filled in arches where needed, and moisturized lips with a clear balm—tailoring the look to each dancer. The end result, although stripped down, relayed an important message: When individuality is this spectacular, why attempt to conform?
There’s something inexplicably thrilling about a Rick Owens show—and we’re not referring to the production heroics of last season’s foam-waterfall backdrop that cascaded onto the runway, specifically, although that’s certainly part of the allure. (This season, Owens used wind machines and fog to sufficiently set the mood.) It’s more of the highly considered way the designer approaches his craft and his sense of showmanship, which affects every single aspect of his work. “The architectural style of Rick goes from the clothes to the hair,” Owens’ longtime coiffing collaborator, Luigi Murenu, said backstage, elaborating on the “homage to lightness” he was creating with a trio of brand-new BaByliss crimping irons. “It’s instant magic,” he continued of the style that relied on clean, product-free hair and brushed-out ridges, which allowed Murenu to get a texture similar to the incredibly graphic wigs he carved out for Spring, with a whole new level of movement, particularly when the wind machines intermingled with strands at the beginning of the runway. “Kate Bush would be in heaven,” he effused.
Lucia Pieroni did her part by swirling a synthetic brush with coordinating swipes of MAC Full Coverage Foundation in W10 and White and blending it all over models’ faces to essentially block out their features and create a certain sense of transparency. Using an opaque powder to get a “matte whiteness” in the middle of the face and around the eyes—”sort of like goggles,” she explained—Pieroni rubbed MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Pure White with the fleshy Painterly between her fingers and applied the neutral mixture to lashes and brows to eliminate them as well. “We want it to be see-through,” she explained of her endgame, while taking down lips with its Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Camel Coat, a tawny shade of grayish taupe. “They’re basically ethereal beings underneath all this hair.”
Lucia Pieroni is hands-down one of our favorite backstage beauty stars. Whether she’s sculpting contours and adding a signature slick of brown eye grease or upping the ante with a gorgeous, stamped-on lip, as was her habit for Spring 2013, there’s a certain level of classic artistry that goes into the Clé de Peau creative director of makeup’s work—which is to say, Pieroni doesn’t deal in the unflattering. Case in point: Even bleached brows couldn’t keep her red, matte mouths and luminous highlighting effort at Rick Owens’ Spring 2012 presentation from landing on the right end of hauntingly beautiful; we were actually so floored by the mulberry pout she dreamed up at Missoni for Fall 2011 that we made the lip pencil/lipstick cocktail our own personal go-to. Pieroni has that ability to make fashion fantasy a realistic, attainable one, which shouldn’t come as too big of a surprise considering she’s a pretty down-to-earth chick. The trained aromatherapist and yoga enthusiast with the wild curls dabbles in homespun beauty remedies, and isn’t afraid to bring homeopathic ones into the trenches. “It’s quite spiritual—in a positive way,” she said in Paris of the mood-lifting powers of a small bottle of calming mist that served as one of the many secret weapons she carried around in her kit this season. You’ve gotta love that. Click here to learn more about the British-born face-painting expert’s beautiful life.