14 posts tagged "Rochas"
“I’m so bored of nice—just over it in a big way,” said the mane man backstage at Rochas, Eugene Souleiman. “[Hairstylists] need to loosen up and live a little.” And loosen up he did, bringing what he referred to as a “couture” sensibility to ready-to-wear hair. The “over-brushed” updos were based off a look he created for Spring 2012 (which featured a fifties egg shape), but this season Souleiman “wanted to make the head and feet do the same thing.” In other words, the Helena Bonham Carter-like styles were designed to flutter like the feather-duster flats and heels. In order to not torture the models’ strands too much, he pinned a teased bun form to the backs of their heads to act as an anchor, then misted all over with Wella Ocean Spritz to lend a “chemically processed” matte finish. Next, he randomly curled pieces with a half-inch curling iron, made tiny braids, and flat-ironed bits before brushing through them and creating a French-twist-like roll in the back (which he would later pull apart). The remaining sections were wrapped around the sides and front, forming a gentle halo of fuzz. Souleiman said of the end result: “It’s chaotic, but it’s beautiful.”
As for makeup artist Lucia Pieroni, she played off the iridescent fabrics and the catwalk music, which began with what sounded like drops of water hitting a hard surface. “It’s like when the Little Mermaid stays out of the sea for too long—she can’t live above ground, so she goes a bit hollow-eyed,” Pieroni said of the dusky tones that were wrapped around eyes. For a dewy base, she prepped skin with Clé de Peau Beauté The Serum, and then applied the deep purple, taupe-y plum, and pink shades from the forthcoming Eye Color Quad in 212 on the lids and lower lash lines, diffusing the pigment with a small blush brush. Cheek Color in 1 (an earthy hue) was dusted lightly along the sides of the face, and lips were slicked with Enriched Lip Luminizer in 226 (launching next Spring). For a “wet” finish, she dabbed Egyptian Magic on cheekbones, lids, and brows to catch the light, similar to the strands of multifaceted, opalescent beads draped twice around models’ necks.
The pre-fall shows are often a good indication of what’s to come when the Fall shows commence next month. After a jam-packed day of appointments and presentations yesterday, however, they also seem to signify that some Spring trends have serious staying power. We are specifically referring to the blue eye makeup movement that left a lasting impression on the fashion set back in September—and on Marco Zanini, it would appear. The Rochas creative director adopted a marine mandate at his pre-fall presentation, asking makeup artist Silvana Belli to compliment his luxe brocade fabrics, which were occasionally accessorized by knit beanies, with an opaque wash of creamy aqua pigment, like Maybelline’s Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Tenacious Teal. Belli dragged the bold, stamped-on color across model Maja Salamon’s lids from her upper lash line to her brow bone, stopping just short of mingling the makeup with her actual brows. A deliberate eschewal of mascara kept the focus squarely on the bolt of blue—and the clothes, of course. Will cobalt, midnight, indigo, and cerulean prevail through February and March, too? We’ll know in a few short weeks. Watch this space.
There are certain collections that lend themselves to strong beauty looks, and under Marco Zanini’s tenure, Rochas is definitely one of them. “There are these incredible rosebud-colored patterned florals towards the end [of the show]; you kind of want to wear them on your mouth,” Clé de Peau creative director of makeup Lucia Pieroni said at Zanini’s Spring outing, where lush fabrics were a huge part of the story. The other conversation piece? Pieroni’s flat-finish cerise mouths.
“I’m obsessed with lips at the moment,” the makeup artist joked, having already gifted us with one of the month’s best last week in Milan. Giving skin a pastel, luminescent finish courtesy of a few swipes of Clé de Peau’s Luminizing Face Enhancer in #11, Pieroni dusted lids with the gold color from its forthcoming Eye Color Quad in #209 Sapphire and brushed up brows, leaving lashes without mascara. Then came those pouts, painted with a blend of Clé de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick in R1, “a beetroot red,” according to Pieroni, and R2, “a pillbox red,” which she mixed together and topped with a bit of its Blush Color Duo in Pink for a mattified texture. “Matte to me seems quite modern,” she said, dragging a cotton swab around the edges of the mouth to ensure a soft-focus effect, “as though they’ve really been sucking on a lolly.”
It wasn’t the first look she and Zanini tried, but it was the one that stuck. “The music’s very California, and we went through the process of having the girls look sun-kissed, but they looked too much like a Dutch painting with those hoods,” Pieroni elaborated, motioning to the silk visors-turned-headscarves that Zanini commissioned from the French couture house Lemarié. “She’s a romantic dreamer who does not go out into the sun,” Zanini chimed in of the accessories, which left Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman very little to work with.
“A ponytail is a little boring, but logistically, it was the only thing we could do,” Souleiman said somewhat begrudgingly, leaving his mark on the look by giving models what he called “premium hair.” “It’s really, supernaturally straight, ” the coiffeur explained, stretching strands with a blow-dryer, coating them with Wella Professionals Shimmer Delight Shine Spray, running them through an iron, and gathering lengths into a low ponytail that he pulled out a bit from the top of the elastic to create a voluminous, pseudo bob beneath the bonnets. “It’s maximized,” he admitted of the end result, “but so subtle it’s not vulgar.”
More news on Rochas’ forthcoming fragrance developments. The Olivia Palermo-fronted perfume called Les Cascades de Rochas, is inspired by “a Parisian fountain in the summer,” is skewed toward a younger demographic, and launches in Europe in July. [WWD]
Alicia Silverstone is dedicated to promoting a green lifestyle—and green beauty, as the case may be. After a collaboration with EcoTools, the Clueless icon and PETA member has teamed up with the organic-minded Juice Beauty on a five-piece collection of skincare and makeup essentials. [WWD]
It was revealed this week that Botox is not the cure-all for migraine headaches researchers claimed it to be last year. But no matter; the wrinkle reliever has a new off-market use: a remedy for teeth grinding. [FOX News]
Speaking of strange uses for injectables, shooting your feet up with dermal fillers to minimize the pain of wearing sky-high heels is apparently gaining in popularity. [Daily Mail]
Matte lips have dominated the Fall runways this season, and more often than not they have been painted classic shades of red. Backstage at Victoria Beckham and Marc By Marc Jacobs in New York, lips were a perfect crimson hue, while a precise slick of scarlet ruled at PPQ in London and Rick Owens this week in Paris. But another pout color is starting to stake its claim on the season, and it’s gaining ground with each passing day: behold, the dark mulberry mouth. We got the our first glimpse of it in Milan, where Pat McGrath coined the “dark romance” effect at Gucci before creating “shading and contrast” at Bottega Veneta with paled-out skin and another burnt-cherry lip that she lined with a black eye liner and then filled in with a blackened-red pigment. Lucia Pieroni picked up on the idea at Rochas, where she crafted a dark wine-stained, “stamped-on” lip to complement the rich color palette of Marco Zanini’s collection. Then today at Viktor & Rolf, McGrath captured the enchanted show’s “witchy elegance” with a burgundy pout that she described as “gothic glamour.” This last incarnation had the addition of a high-gloss shine, which the makeup artist applied just before models hit the run way to avoid any, er, sticky situations.
The color is striking on a host of different complexions, but the real secret to pulling it off lays with a good lip liner. “[They're] brilliant!” Pieroni effused at Rochas of the colored pencils that can retain even the wiliest of lipstick bullets. Pro tip: For a true matte finish, apply your liner around the perimeter of the mouth and in the center before adding your lipstick. Blot with a tissue, dab with finger-patting of translucent powder, then apply the liner to the surface of the mouth again to thoroughly remove all traces of shine.