14 posts tagged "Rochas"
The color references were endless at Rochas, where Marco Zanini replicated a rich palette of Scandinavian pottery prints throughout his Fall collection. But makeup artist Lucia Pieroni honed in on a single shade of deep aubergine, which inspired the “stamped-on lip” she painted onto models’ mouths in perfect complement to the deep steely blues, warm mustard yellows, and hints of plum that were woven into the clothes.
“I’m making them matte,” the Clé de Peau color creator said of the lips, pressing a tissue over a dusting of translucent powder that she had blotted on top of a slick of the brand’s forthcoming Extra Rich Lipstick in #R10, a dark mulberry, to remove all traces of shine. Skin was kept luminous and pale thanks to a veil of Clé de Peau’s Teint Naturel Foundation and its Luminizing Face Enhancer palette in #12 Gold, which Pieroni swept across the tops of cheekbones. Blending a “soft-focus” eye onto lids with a mixture of its new-for-fall Satin Eye Colors in #118, a shimmering sand, and #116, a glistening wine, Pieroni beefed up brows, as she is frequently wont to do.
“It’s all about the textiles,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman confirmed of the backstage beauty inspiration. And Souleiman added another nod to handcraftsmanship with a series of lacquered cinnamon stick barrettes that he bought in Paris specifically for the show. “We found them in the Marais for 50 cents! We bought every last one,” he effused of the street-market find that added a “wooden, organic” element to Zanini’s folk-ceramic influence. Sectioning out a front panel of hair, adding a bit of mousse, and brushing it backward for a semi-sleek effect, Souleiman rolled the lengths under themselves, pinning them down for a touch of volume at the nape of the neck. The remaining side sections were back-combed ever so slightly to maintain the shape of a faux bob before they were gathered together and secured with the barrettes. “She’s rich, but not in a vulgar way, in an artisanal way—like a character in a Bergman movie,” he proposed of Zanini’s muse for the season. “So the hair is soft but it’s definitely been done—by impeccably good hands.” And how.
Cate Blanchett does her best to keep her personal life private—which is to say, you don’t see her in the pages of Us Weekly all that much. But there’s one thing she’s quite public about: her love of SK-II skincare products. Make that two things: Aside from maintaining her porcelain complexion with standouts from the Japanese skincare giant, Blanchett is known for her acute style sense, often plucking gowns right off the Givenchy, Balenicaga, and Lanvin runways for red-carpet events. Just in time for the holidays, the Oscar winner has combined her two interests into one stylish skin perfector. The SK-II brand ambassador has enlisted Rochas designer Marco Zanini to help create a limited-edition bottle of the line’s coveted Facial Treatment Essence. The magic elixir, which is packed with the company’s patented Pitera—a fermented rice derivative that has amazing skin softening and smoothing properties—reduces pigmentation, boosts moisture, and increases the skin’s barrier function. That it now comes in a frosted glass flacon with a gold cap and a crystalline floral pattern etched into its surface is just another reason to start slathering it on.
$195, available at www.saksfifthavenue.com.
“Marco [Zanini] likes a sculpted beauty,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni said backstage at the designer’s Spring Rochas collection. “A simple, yet made-up” look that she and her coiffing counterpart, Eugene Souleiman, delivered in spades. Working off one of this season’s big trends—”perfection,” fifties-style—Pieroni added a sci-fi twist, channeling Tim Burton’s 1996 film Mars Attacks. “It’s alien beautiful,” she said of the clean, powdered skin that shined “in all the right places,” thanks to Clé de Peau’s forthcoming Luminizing Face Enhancer in 12 Gold, a prismatic highlighting palette, which Pieroni swiped across cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose. A “fifties brow”—that classic straight, full shape—was filled in and given a pointed arch with MAC Eye Shadow in Omega, Copperplate and Typographic, while a smudged lid, which received a diffused line of chestnut pigment from Clé de Peau’s new-for-spring Eye Color Quad in 208, a mix of beiges and browns, created depth. To tone down mouths ever-so-slightly, Pieroni patted on its as-yet-unreleased Enriched Lip Luminizer in 220 Honey Nuts for a golden nude finish.
“They’re so perfect, they’re almost from outer space,” Souleiman elaborated of Zanini’s directive, which the coiffing star translated into gravity-defying French twists. “We simply reduced the weight of the hair by creating a ponytail that’s been teased to death,” Souleiman said of the process, which required little more than a few mists of hair spray. “Then, you just wrap all of that frizz into a hairdo. It’s a quick fix, but it actually works,” he said—particularly well with the chiffon scarves that were assigned to a few of the girls at random. “They sort of feel like they’re levitating,” Souleiman offered of the diaphanous fabrics billowing quality. “But it’s not weird.”
As previously noted, skirting the masculine/feminine divide was the lasting beauty impression at the Fall shows, with big, bushy brows and even makeshift sideburns turning up from New York to Paris. The trend was realized most visibly (and readily) through ubiquitous quiffs—free-flowing top sections of hair that were spiked up and combed back over slicked-back sides, and twisted-up back sections at shows like Rochas and Dolce & Gabbana. Runway only? Not hardly. Magazines are rushing to embrace the look, too, and this month alone we’ve spotted the backstage style made popular by Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman, Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, and coiffing star Luke Hersheson on Laura Blokhina in Elle Denmark and on Kim Noorda in Vogue Taiwan. While Blokhina’s hair is already quite short, which made creating variance between voluminous and flat planes a relatively simple endeavor, hairstylist Marie Thomsen had her work cut out for her with Noorda’s mid-back-grazing strands. When working with longer locks, it’s essential to create a sharp part to separate the sides from the top and press generous amounts of styling wax, like Redken’s Structure Wax 17, into hair before fastening your twist in the back. Think of it like sporting 2009′s side-shave without the permanence of actually applying razor to scalp. What do you think of these gender-bending styles?
“It is winter,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman quipped backstage at Rochas, where he was fashioning yet another “handsome,” masculine-inspired hairdo to add to his growing Fall repertoire. (Souleiman has been one of the coiffeurs responsible for the trend’s ascendance, giving it a similar spotlight at both Narciso Rodriguez and Missoni.) But cold, harsh weather aside, Souleiman had another suggestion as to why much of the hair establishment has shied away from pretty this season. “We’ve superseded the glamorous look,” he proposed. “The wind machine and the wavy hair are over. We’re redefining chic.”
To make that point all the more clear, Souleiman took his inspiration from an old post-grunge Jil Sander campaign starring Guinevere van Seenus that was hanging from Marco Zanini’s inspiration board, which manifest itself into a “front that looks like a GQ man” with a sleek updo in back. Prepping hair with Wella Perfect Setting lotion and applying heat, Souleiman coated strands in its Velvet Amplifier serum and created a deep, side-parted ridge before securing a square-shaped twist into an anchor of coiled braids.
Staying in line with Souleiman’s goal to “make chic minimal,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni kept things simple, albeit striking. Most impressive were the full, “boyish” brows she filled in using MAC eye shadows in Omega, Copper, and Technographic. “These are the best,” she said of the powders’ blendable consistency, which allowed her to mix shades to match individual brow color and create softer lines. Also of note was the brown greasy eye she painted onto lids using the metallic coffee color from Clé de Peau’s forthcoming collection of cream eye shadows. “It’s more like shading,” she said of the light dusting of pigment she topped off with MAC clear lip gloss, which also adorned the tops of cheekbones for a sheer, dewy highlight. Lips were treated to a slathering of Homeoplasmine for a concentrated dose of hydration and then coated with Clé de Peau lipstick in T9, a peachy nude. If this is the new chic, we’re all for it.