16 posts tagged "Rochas"
As previously noted, skirting the masculine/feminine divide was the lasting beauty impression at the Fall shows, with big, bushy brows and even makeshift sideburns turning up from New York to Paris. The trend was realized most visibly (and readily) through ubiquitous quiffs—free-flowing top sections of hair that were spiked up and combed back over slicked-back sides, and twisted-up back sections at shows like Rochas and Dolce & Gabbana. Runway only? Not hardly. Magazines are rushing to embrace the look, too, and this month alone we’ve spotted the backstage style made popular by Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman, Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, and coiffing star Luke Hersheson on Laura Blokhina in Elle Denmark and on Kim Noorda in Vogue Taiwan. While Blokhina’s hair is already quite short, which made creating variance between voluminous and flat planes a relatively simple endeavor, hairstylist Marie Thomsen had her work cut out for her with Noorda’s mid-back-grazing strands. When working with longer locks, it’s essential to create a sharp part to separate the sides from the top and press generous amounts of styling wax, like Redken’s Structure Wax 17, into hair before fastening your twist in the back. Think of it like sporting 2009′s side-shave without the permanence of actually applying razor to scalp. What do you think of these gender-bending styles?
“It is winter,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman quipped backstage at Rochas, where he was fashioning yet another “handsome,” masculine-inspired hairdo to add to his growing Fall repertoire. (Souleiman has been one of the coiffeurs responsible for the trend’s ascendance, giving it a similar spotlight at both Narciso Rodriguez and Missoni.) But cold, harsh weather aside, Souleiman had another suggestion as to why much of the hair establishment has shied away from pretty this season. “We’ve superseded the glamorous look,” he proposed. “The wind machine and the wavy hair are over. We’re redefining chic.”
To make that point all the more clear, Souleiman took his inspiration from an old post-grunge Jil Sander campaign starring Guinevere van Seenus that was hanging from Marco Zanini’s inspiration board, which manifest itself into a “front that looks like a GQ man” with a sleek updo in back. Prepping hair with Wella Perfect Setting lotion and applying heat, Souleiman coated strands in its Velvet Amplifier serum and created a deep, side-parted ridge before securing a square-shaped twist into an anchor of coiled braids.
Staying in line with Souleiman’s goal to “make chic minimal,” makeup artist Lucia Pieroni kept things simple, albeit striking. Most impressive were the full, “boyish” brows she filled in using MAC eye shadows in Omega, Copper, and Technographic. “These are the best,” she said of the powders’ blendable consistency, which allowed her to mix shades to match individual brow color and create softer lines. Also of note was the brown greasy eye she painted onto lids using the metallic coffee color from Clé de Peau’s forthcoming collection of cream eye shadows. “It’s more like shading,” she said of the light dusting of pigment she topped off with MAC clear lip gloss, which also adorned the tops of cheekbones for a sheer, dewy highlight. Lips were treated to a slathering of Homeoplasmine for a concentrated dose of hydration and then coated with Clé de Peau lipstick in T9, a peachy nude. If this is the new chic, we’re all for it.
After reporting on consecutive seasons of backstage beauty, there are certain things that you start to notice in one makeup artist’s kit after the other—and we’re not just talking about an overabundance of eye shadow pots and lipstick tubes. Perhaps more interesting are the things that every face painter—no matter what brand they’re working with at any given show—simply must have in order to operate at full tilt. Once beauty editors get wind of these professional secrets (and subsequently blow up their collective spots), mainstream success stories tend to follow—just look at L’Oréal’s Elnett hair spray and Embryollise, the popular French pharmacy brand whose extra-emollient moisturizers were such a mega-hit backstage you can now find them readily no matter what country you call home.
With a week left of Fall shows, we’ve got two more tricks of the trade that are worth getting hip to post haste. First up is Homeoplasmine, another French drugstore staple that Tom Pecheux keeps at the ready whether traveling to New York, Milan, or Paris. “It’s a nipple cream,” he told us backstage at Doo.Ri, where he explained that Frenchwomen realized that the magical salve that heals dry, cracked skin irritated from nursing could work equally well on dry patches located elsewhere. “I use it on lips,” Lucia Pieroni told us this morning at Rochas, where she too had a tube lying amid her collection of Shiseido and Clé de Peau skincare products.
Pieroni reminded us of another makeup artist must-have that Val Garland revealed last season at Malandrino: Egyptian Magic. The all-natural, olive oil, royal jelly, honey, beeswax, and bee propolis cure-all can be found at your local Whole Foods and happens to be the more consumer-friendly way to get the glossy eyes we’ve been seeing on the runway of late. Slather a little onto bare lids or on top of a brown pigment for a dewy, glistening finish in lieu of heavier clear lip glosses. “That’s really just for shows,” Pieroni says of the sticky stuff—which may be best left to the professionals.
It’s rare that objects, rather than people, inspire makeup looks at the shows, but those unusual instances can often make for some of the most memorable beauty looks. Case in point: At Rochas yesterday, face painter Lucia Pieroni incorporated Dutch art into her makeup look, channeling Vermeer’s paintings and the strong blue glaze of Delft pottery. Starting with “pale, simple skin,” Pieroni traced MAC’s Chromaline Pencil in Marine Ultra around model’s eyes, blending it outward for the “pale, cold quality” of the Northern Lights in the summer. Models also got an opaque peach lip courtesy of MAC’s Paint Stick in Dusty Coral, which Pieroni described as “a bit off” but that contrasted nicely with those vivid sapphire lids. A wealth of painterly prints could also be found in the scarves Eugene Souleiman tied over loose buns and haphazardly placed gold combs before girls headed out onto the runway. To further emphasize the idea that the models organically pushed their hair back to keep it out of their face, Souleiman avoided product entirely—another backstage rarity.
It’s no secret that bigger is better when it comes to fall hair. The collective message that stylists like Guido Palau at Prada, Eugene Souleiman at Rochas, and Odile Gilbert at Lagerfeld sent down the runways was volume—a memo that was not lost on the beauty and fashion set, as evidenced by the hoards of glossies that have devoted many a page of late to hulking masses of hair. Christy Turlington set things off with a Giles-esque set in this month’s issue of Vogue Italia, which was promptly followed by Laetitia Casta’s tribute to Amy Winehouse’s famous half-up, half-down bouffant on the cover of next month’s Russian Vogue. Our favorite incarnation yet comes from the pages of the August issue of Vogue U.S., which features a sixties-styled Karlie Kloss sporting a spot-on replica of the sexed-up, teased-out tresses from Rochas, where Michelangelo Antonioni’s Mod masterpiece Blow-up, provided the inspiration. All three are convincing arguments for investing in some high-quality mousse and a strong hair spray—and offer just a small taste of what is likely to come from those much anticipated September books. Ready your teasing comb.