36 posts tagged "Rodarte"
Mountains of mousse, teased hair, and side swoops are back—at least at Rodarte. Odile Gilbert said there was an “eighties intention” behind the look—which was evident by the inflated “bangs” that peaked over the brow and framed the face—as well as Debbie Harry of Blondie, who often sported a deep side part and a swoosh across the top. Gilbert created the look by dousing hair with John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse and blow-drying with a round brush to build body. She used a curling iron to set the flip, and added a slight wave to the length. For additional lift, a Mason Pearson bristle brush was used to back-comb the front section. The hair was then swung over the right shoulder, and a coiled cornrow was hidden near the nape of the neck, acting as a pincushion for the hand-painted extension that was added over the top. While we’ve seen printed looks from Gilbert in the past—like the cheetah-spotted bouffant she created at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture for Fall 2013—for this show she developed a pattern that she described as tweed meets zebra, meant to reflect fabrics used in the collection. After the extension that often contrasted the models’ hair color was secured, the length was conspicuously pinned to one side and shellacked (just as it was in the decade in which the style originated) with loads of Frizz-Ease Moisture Barrier Firm-Hold Hair Spray.
The nails were a different animal altogether (literally): with tortoiseshell patterns painted with a cosmetic sponge by manicurist Tracylee Percival. She first stamped two coats of Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure in Clay, a burnt orange, and accented it with patches of Cinnamon, a darker brown, for depth. (Both lacquers were made for yet another collaboration with the Mulleavy sisters, available in March.)
The inspiration for face painter James Kaliardos was a “wild L.A. girl—the real Los Angeles, not the red-carpet kind,” which he brought to life by applying NARS Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Via Veneto in an exaggerated V shape (for models with lids that touched the lash line, he implored Black Valley Eye Paint and an angled brush). Lashes were coated with Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara, and arches were brushed up with Oural Brow Gel to give them an untamed and “animal-like” quality. To lift the eye and make it more graphic, Kaliardos applied a dot of Radiant Creamy Concealer underneath the eye that was paler than each model’s skin, which he said reminded him of either a leopard or Veruschka. The Matte Multiples in Altai and Anguilla (out spring 2014) were blended onto cheeks for color and contour. And the pinky-nude lip color was a combination of two Satin Lip Pencils in Biscayne Park and Floralies. Between the hair, manicures, and makeup, it was like a high-fashion zoo backstage.
In the past, I cringed at the concept of a French manicure. The first and only time I ever had one was for my bat mitzvah—nothing says “Today I am a woman” (the traditional phrase that kicks off many a post-Torah-reading speech) like acrylic nails with airbrushed white tips. But now this classic design is staging one very chic comeback. Roland Mouret strayed from the manicure’s straight-and-narrow origins and had polish painted on the bias at his Spring 2013 show, while Titania Inglis played up the gold rings on models’ fingers the following season by extending the metallic shade down onto their tips and forming an edgy “V” shape. And who could forget the ombré nails at Rodarte that were as cool as the barbed-wire crowns the girls wore down the Mulleavy sisters’ Fall 2013 runway? The French mani certainly has no shortage of chutzpah.
To see the evolution of the French manicure, check out this month’s “The Look.”
The Model: Gisele Bündchen
The Moment: Bejeweled headpieces
The Motivation: The French are often at the forefront of breaking trends, and in the case of hair jewelry, the above shot proves that, yet again, they are a cut above the rest. Trust Paris Vogue to drape a string of diamonds across Gisele Bündchen’s locks nearly a decade and a half before the look hit the runways. While headpieces are a little more subdued this season, the message remains the same: Jewels are just as appropriate perched on your head as they are on your finger. From the simple gold half rings that encircled the backs of models’ heads at Balenciaga’s Spring ’13 show to Chloë Sevigny’s Rodarte headband, a little sparkle in your locks never looked better.
Photo: Herb Ritts for Paris Vogue,; Courtesy of 80s-90s-supermodel.tumblr.com
More and more, Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy are known almost as much for the hair accessories that accompany their unique designs as the designs themselves. First came Spring 2011′s hand-carved barrettes that Odile Gilbert slipped onto one side of models’ manes; then there was Fall 2011′s gilded comb moment, which was followed by those much-discussed shooting-star clips from Fall 2012 and, most recently, the barbwire headbands turned crowns that turned up at the sister duo’s Fall 2013 show. Coveted as these pieces are, however, it’s the rare A-lister who typically gets to wear them. Kirsten Dunst has received the honor on more than a few occasions, and it looks like the torch has now been passed to Chloë Sevigny. At last night’s Absolut Elyx launch in New York, the actress sported one of the thin, interwoven-metal bands as well as a full look from the Fall collection. Lucky girl. Thoughts on the accessory’s off-runway debut?
Since making a huge splash on the Spring and Fall runways, hair accessories have become an ever-increasing red-carpet staple as well. From barrettes and coronets to bedazzled baubles and bands, starlets can’t seem to get enough of the insta-embellishments, and this weekend’s GLAAD Media Awards in L.A. were no exception. Taking a page out of Rodarte’s Fall beauty book, Elle Fanning wore a Jennifer Behr circlet, while Kirsten Dunst opted for the simplicity of a thick black satin ribbon, not unlike the leather version Guido Palau placed over side plaits at Valentino. Which look do you prefer?