36 posts tagged "Rodarte"
Wearing makeup to the beach is a questionable move, although if you grew up in a NorCal surf town, like Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy, it was probably also hard to avoid. “It’s the idea of mascara that has been applied on the beach,” James Kaliardos said of the makeup look he created for the sister duo’s Fall Santa Cruz-themed collection. “It’s a bit messy,” he continued, “as if it fell onto [models'] faces.”
Dusting lids with NARS Single Eye Shadow in Bengali, a matte dark brown shade that Kaliardos swept underneath the lower lash line as well, he worked its forthcoming Eye Paint in Mesopotamia, a similar shade, through the crease to provide a little slip. Then, taking NARS’ as-yet-unreleased Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via De’Martelli, a dark chocolate, he dotted on a chunky, “speckled” bit of pigment for a haphazard effect. NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara added additional dimension to lashes while its Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Belle de Jour gave pouts a subdued nude finish.
Odile Gilbert was going for a “rocker princess” look, which she achieved by building a “cool, undone” texture into models’ manes. Prepping hair with John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse, Gilbert took strands through a two-inch curling iron to create a loose bend. Brushing out the waves for a more natural appearance, she created interwoven plaits on either side of the head, which were joined together in a rosette that segued into a single braid in the back. Using Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Thermal Protection Formula on the ends to create piecey separation, Gilbert crowned select models with barbed-wire headbands, including Nadja Bender, Irina Kravchenko, Kate King, and Tilda Lindstam.
The designer-beauty collaboration is certainly nothing new, but it has remained unmined by Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy. Sure, there was that ill-fated MAC collection inspired by Juarez, Mexico, three years ago, but that’s ancient history now. Onwards and upwards to a nail partnership, as they say. For the first time ever, the design duo has teamed up with Sally Hansen to create three exclusive polish shades to complement their Santa Cruz-inspired Fall collection. But rather than revisit their eighties-era youth via outlandish varnish hues, the Mulleavys devised a relatively subdued palette for the season, including the creamy neutral Stocking Nude, which Sally Hansen nail ambassador and celebrity manicurist Tracylee topped with metallic French manicure tips in Gold Roses, a rose gold, and Platinum Star, a silver. You may need a certain constitution to pull off one of those tie-dyed bodysuits, but the lacquers should have more mass appeal when they launch later this year.
Since the Spring shows ended two weeks ago, we’ve already used plenty of blog space to talk about an uptick in haute hair accessories on the runway—and subsequently on the red carpet. But there’s another trend brewing that offers a slight variation on all the bows, bands, and elasticized baubles via hairstyles for accessories. “It’s like the girls are shaved,” Odile Gilbert explained of the front section of models’ hair that she slicked over to one side with Kérastase Ciment Thermique blow-dry polish at Rodarte to showcase the silver dragon cuffs Laura and Kate Mulleavy designed for their collection. At the the royal world premiere of Skyfall last night, newly minted Bond girl Naomi Harris followed suit, sweeping her side-parted strands behind her left ear to accommodate a similarly statement piece of ear candy. Who needs an updo?
As we stagger through day six of New York fashion week, the nude nail—or no nail—movement is gaining steam with each passing show. But that hasn’t stopped the industry’s nail artists from flexing their creative muscles. Michelle Huynh’s spiel at Rodarte yesterday started much like many similar spiels have gone since the weekend. “We created a base with two coats of Frosting Cream and Desert Suede, which we followed with a glossy topcoat,” the CND manicurist began. But it ended quite differently. “Then we mixed those two colors with Chocolate Milk, painted a piece of wax paper, let it dry, and topped that with a matte topcoat,” she continued—at which point our ears perked up. “We cut the paper into strips,” she explained, demonstrating how the microscopic slivers were then crisscrossed on top of the nail and glued down by another coat of the band’s Super Shiny Topcoat, which was slicked on underneath the paper pieces, not on top of them, so there was a “glimmer” from the different textures playing off one another when models walked down the runway. Not your average nude nail, to be sure.
“A modern-medieval face” is what the tip sheet James Kaliardos was passing around to his team backstage at Rodarte said, but there was more to it than that, of course. “The collection feels Dungeons & Dragons to me, not Joan of Arc,” Kaliardos elaborated, referencing the austerity of old religious paintings and “getting rid of the Kim Kardashian look—forever.”
That meant skipping those familiar, heavily bronzed contours and focusing instead on a paled-out complexion that was treated with NARS Skin Optimal Brightening Concentrate and a light-handed application of its Sheer Glow Foundation just in the center of the face, “because once it gets on the cheeks, it actually looks like foundation,” according to Kaliardos. There wasn’t much visible product on the face at all, really, save for NARS’ Triple X Lip Gloss, which was swathed onto mouths and eyelids and applied through girls’ brows as well, including show-opener Jessica Stam’s. “Can you fix me,” Stam beseeched Kaliardos, who added a little fullness, too, at the model’s request.
Odile Gilbert was working off the proportions of Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s designs. “When they showed me the clothes, I thought [the girls] needed something long,” Gilbert said, referring to the hair, which she made “strict and straight” to accommodate a dragon earring cuff clipped onto models’ left ears. “It’s like the girls are shaved,” she explained, slicking strands with Kérastase Ciment Thermique for a pre-blow-dry polish, and dividing them into three sections: two in back—one hanging straight down over the other—and one in front, which was combed all the way over to one side and coated with its Elixir Ultime for added shine.
The finishing touch came from the most conceptual neutral nail we’ve seen this week. “It took 200 man-hours,” CND manicurist Michelle Huynh said of the three-dimensional polish-on-polish basketweave tips that showcased a blended base of its varnishes in Desert Suede and Frosting Cream. Nude, it turns out, doesn’t necessarily mean boring.