36 posts tagged "Rodarte"
When I first eyed the gold star hair clips Laura and Kate Mulleavy designed for their Australian Outback, dust storm-inspired Fall Rodarte show, I believe my exact words were, “Need. Want.” (A message that was delivered via Instagram, of course). While I later learned that the barrettes would not make it onto retail counters, Giovanna Battaglia managed to get her hands on one for last night’s Marc Jacobs-sponsored Art Production Fund Urban Hoedown. Three months on and I’m still thinking the same thing: Need. Want. Thoughts on the clip’s first off-the-runway cameo?
Update: Due to overwhelming response, the clips will be produced—and will be available this summer at www.paire.us.
Before setting up his station with bottles of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation and a multitude of its bronzer and blush compacts backstage at Rodarte, James Kaliardos broke out the skincare. “Everyone’s skin is just disastrous right now,” the face painter proclaimed, soaking cotton pads with NARS’ new Makeup Cleansing Water and then slathering on “pretty much everything” from the brand’s skincare line to remedy models’ dry complexions—the unhappy result of four full days of shows. Once Kaliardos did start in with the makeup, though, there was no stopping him.
“These girls are in the Australian Outback and they’ve been caught in a dust storm,” he said, explaining Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s inspiration for their Fall collection, which manifested itself as a blend of bronze and pink pigments that Kaliardos applied with a heavy hand onto cheeks and lids. “I didn’t want it to be all bronzer and J. Lo,” he insisted; instead, the makeup artist opted for “Faye Dunaway cheeks,” which he sculpted by brushing on layer after layer of NARS Bronzer in Laguna. The shimmering insta-tan also made an appearance on lids, where it was brushed through the brows in the shape of an “arc.” Next Kaliardos dusted NARS Blush in Gaiety, a pure pink, from the crease toward the outer corners of eyes and then dotted its Blush in Madly onto the apples of cheeks, “geisha-style.” To open the eyes a bit, he pressed the white shade from NARS’ Eyeshadow Duo in Vent Glace into the inner corners. Lips were painted an opaque pink with its Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Bolero. If the makeup looked heavy, that was intentional. “More!” Kaliardos instructed his team. “Stronger!”
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert worked off a similar directive, re-creating a down under dust storm effect by varying the texture in her side-parted faux bobs. Prepping hair with Kérastase Mousse Volumactive, Gilbert created a shorter, curly side of the style, which she adorned with a series of gold pins, some of which had stars on them, and a longer, smoother side that went sans accessories. So how did Gilbert determine which girls got gold stars? “They decided,” she said of the designers. “They decide everything. They know what they want.”
If it wasn’t clear from the sunflower-print opening looks that Laura and Kate Mulleavy sent out onto the runway, Vincent van Gogh and his most famous works partially inspired their Spring Rodarte collection and its complementary beauty look. “It’s Starry Night,” makeup artist James Kaliardos said backstage, referencing the Dutch post-impressionist master’s oil-on-canvas depiction of the view outside his sanitarium room window. “Bigger! Smokier!” Kaliardos told his army of face painters, who encased eyes in midnight blue accordingly, thanks to a precise layering effort of NARS’ new Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Dark Rite, a shimmering navy, and its Eye Shadows in Night Flight, a deep ink, and Tropic, a glittery aqua. Cheeks were treated to a blended application of NARS Cream Blush in Penny Lane, a muted mauve that was also patted onto lips and topped with its Lip Gloss in Nano, a sheer purple, for a lavender-tinged nude effect.
The famous painting’s swirling stars and dark backdrop inspired nail guru Deborah Lippmann as well, who custom-mixed large pieces of silver and graphite sequins into her sparkling navy lacquer Lady Sings the Blues. “You’ve gotta amp it up for the girls,” Lippmann said, referring to the Mulleavys, who are particular about every single detail that goes into their shows, right down to the toes. “They didn’t want them to match the nail,” Lippmann mentioned, slicking on pedicures with two coats of her universal neutral varnish Fashion.
Odile Gilbert diverted from the art-history reference to add a retro forties element to the equation in the form of “sweet sixteen” hair that worked well with the designers’ series of fantasy, almost promlike dresses. “It’s sort of teenager-y,” Gilbert said, scrunching in Kérastase Volumactive Conditioning Mousse and its Double Force Hairspray for a tiny bit of texture. It wasn’t all youth and whimsy, though—the front row’s mean age not withstanding. Gilbert side-parted strands and then created a twisted wave that she secured with a hair comb. “That’s the part that’s sophisticated,” she said.
We’re still on a two-and-a-half-week countdown until the Spring shows get under way here in New York, but the invites have already started flooding in, bringing word of exciting things to come. Our first surprise came last week when we learned that NARS, not MAC, will be sponsoring the makeup look at Rodarte, breaking a five-plus-season streak for the beauty brand. The Mulleavys’ trusted face painter, James Kaliardos, will still be at the helm, only now he’ll be using François Nars’ well-curated, finely tuned color palette.
In other makeup news, Rachel Zoe has partnered with Maybelline for her second, more full-scale runway endeavor, which means that Exude, the lip color brand that Zoe fronts as brand ambassador, will presumably not be making a cameo along with her Spring collection.
But the biggest piece of news we’ve managed to track down so far came today: Alexander Wang will join Prabal Gurung and Tracy Reese as the beneficiary of his very own nail color collection from Sally Hansen. The lacquers, Wang’s first official beauty effort, will debut at his Spring show and should prove as covetable an accessory as his studded It bags. Fingers crossed a few bottles are tossed into the gift bags.
Barrettes got a boost last season at shows like Cynthia Rowley, Carolina Herrera, Prabal Gurung, and Badgley Mischka, but Kirsten Dunst has always been a proponent of the schoolgirl accessory, frequently pairing it with a flattering side-sweep. The Melancholia actress stayed true to her signature style in Cannes this morning, pairing a gilded floral-cluster clip with a pleated yellow dress. But that’s not just any gilded, floral-cluster clip. That’s one of the handmade barrettes designers Laura and Kate Mulleavy made for their Spring 2011 California Gold Rush show. (The dress may be Chloé, but Dunst is a Rodarte girl to her core). Bonus points for the crimson lip, which, as we’ve previously noted, is the perfect complement to marigold eveningwear. What do you think of Dunst’s photo call look?