41 posts tagged "Rodarte"
When we arrived backstage at Rodarte yesterday, makeup artist James Kaliardos was doing a little promotion for Karen Elson, who was sitting in his chair. “Tell us about your new album, Karen,” he said, but the flame-haired model-turned-singer was willing to divulge little except to say that it was “spooky.” So was the makeup look. “We’re entering the spirit world here,” Kaliardos said, adding words like “sleepwalking” and “Mexican border towns” to the equation. That heady mix evolved into very paled-out skin and a shiny, iridescent cheekbone, not cheek. “I’m not into blush anymore,” Kaliardos said, echoing makeup artist’s Charlotte Tilbury’s similar distaste for rosy cheeks for Fall. “This is a neglected part of the face, but I’m bringing it back,” he said of models’ temples and facial contours, along which he dabbed MAC’s Pigment in Kitchmas for an ethereal, iridescent effect. A metallic mauve-y/lilac eye courtesy of MAC eye shadows in Quarry and Silver Ring completed the “dreamscape” that Kaliardos was building. For her part, hairstylist Odile Gilbert was just interested in creating something “clean and proper,” sculpting deep side parts that were slicked back with Aveda Control Force hair spray and held in place with oxidized copper floral hair pins that the Mulleavy sisters designed for the occasion. When we asked Gilbert how many pins each girl was allotted, she had this to say: “It depends who they are. If they are a top model they get a lot. You need to know how to work them.” Hierarchy exists even in the subconscious, it turns out.
As one of the truly eco-friendly global brands in the business, Aveda has always tried to bring its philosophy of sustainable beauty to fashion week. Since the S/S 2008 collections, when the company began printing all invitations and programs on paper that’s at least 20 percent post-consumer recycled, replaced bottled water with large cisterns of New York City tap water, and officially stopped partnering with designers that use fur, it has been at the forefront of helping to green the fashion industry’s largest stage. But it’s managed to one-up itself for the upcoming Fall shows. Premiering a new partnership with the New York City Department of Environmental Protection (DEP), Aveda will bring some of the cleanest tap water in the nation to weary editors, buyers, and bloggers en route from Milk Studios and Bryant Park to the Altman Building and the Chelsea galleries by pumping water from area fire hydrants into six free “Water on the Go” stations around the city. Eight hundred limited-edition reusable aluminum bottles will also be distributed at its sponsored shows and will be decorated with signatures from participating designers, including John Patrick, Jason Wu, Christian Siriano, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy, and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund 2009 award winner Sophie Théallet. Seeing as how water bottles just might be the new tote bag, you might want to show up to Rodarte early.
The Olsens offered us so many runway-to-reality talking points at MoMA’s Second Annual Film Benefit honoring Tim Burton last night that we’re not quite sure where to begin. Shall we start with Ashley’s subtle, pastel hair streaks à la Proenza Schouler, or should we dive right in and applaud Mary-Kate’s two-toned berry lip, as seen at Rodarte? Either way, we’ll need to take a few moments to dwell on their Chloé-esque, full natural brows. (They’re well executed, but maybe a little too much for us to handle!) What do you like best?
Fashionphiles with an appetite for indie magazines will be delighted to know that the entire December issue of Dazed & Confused Japan is devoted to womenswear. Beauty fiends, on the other hand, will likely be drawn to the glossy’s cover for its distinct nod to 1930′s pin curls and an equally era-specific dark lip. The particular pout model Anya Kazakova is sporting adds a modern touch to the otherwise anachronistic spread, though. Her two-toned, heavily lined stain is reminiscent of makeup artist James Kaliardos’ handiwork backstage at Rodarte’s Spring show, where he used MAC Lip Pencil in Beet in the center of models’ mouths and an angled brush dipped in MAC Pro Lipmix in black as a liner. The double-textured look acts as something of a natural plumper while also adding an edgy twist to an otherwise classic berry-color. The very 2009 bleached eyebrows serve a similar purpose, which will be discussed at length in our upcoming The Look feature. Stay tuned.
Of all of the burgeoning trends we’ve seen backstage this month, pops of bright hair dye and body art were two of the more surprising ones. While New York’s hot pink, teal, and purple streaks didn’t seem to have legs across the Atlantic, hand-drawn tattoos did manage to make the trip. To properly accessorize his collection of street-chic denim ensembles, Jean Paul Gaultier had his models covered in temporary tattoos. Most girls had their names written in Gothic typeface down their necks, around their arms, or, in Iris Strubegger’s case, across her face, while others opted for descriptive words written in Old English (Kim Noorda went with an inner-forearm piece that just read “Fragile”). Alongside Rodarte’s full-sleeved tribal art and the calf and ankle adornments that appeared at Malandrino, you might want to start thinking ink for Spring 2010. For some good ideas, might we suggest a flip through No Regrets: The Best, Worst, & Most +$%*ing Ridiculous Tattoos Ever. And just in case you were wondering, a caricature of Oprah wearing a warm-up jacket and bench pressing is already taken.