36 posts tagged "Rodarte"
East L.A. gang girls. Menacing condors. Maori tribeswomen. Makeup artist James Kaliardos rattled off all of these things at Rodarte yesterday, where he was attempting to create “the dark side of beauty.” With a charred black lip and a series of full-sleeve, half-sleeve, and neck tattoo designs courtesy of MAC senior artist Chantel Miller, his efforts were an overwhelming success. Starting with a minimal base, Kaliardos dabbed concealer under models’ eyes and brushed a dark mauve shadow on their lids for contour. Keeping everything “simple and strong,” he skipped the mascara and blush, and focused his energies on the lips, where he filled in the middle with strokes of MAC Lip Pencil in Beet and then used an angled brush dipped into MAC Pro Lipmix in black to line the rest of the mouth. Nail connoisseur Deborah Lippmann echoed Kaliardos’ trip to the dark side with her new “Funky Chunky,” a sheer, texturized black lacquer that goes on slightly more uniformly than Marquis Moon, the sequined silver shade she premiered at this show last season. As for the hair, Odile Gilbert explained her coifs in a single word: “Beautiful.” The stylist treated the models’ tresses with Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion to create a salt-water texture and then laid a piece of wool on top, spraying it with hairspray so that it adhered to the hair. Gilbert referenced Edward Curtis’ evocative images of the American West and Native Americans as the basis of the look, although her inspiration really came from the unique way the Mulleavys work with knitwear and the wholly different vantage point from which they approach their designs—a universal appreciation that resonated backstage.
The CFDA flashbulbs, tented red carpet, and accompanying street blockades outside Alice Tully Hall on 65th Street last night were enough to intrigue even the least fashion-minded passerby. But the grandstand erected around the corner on Broadway showcasing 60 models, 20 girls each in the Fall collections of the Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees, with runway hair and makeup to match, was downright traffic-stopping. “We had literally two hours to do all 60 girls,” MAC Cosmetics’ James Kaliardos said after the storm had passed and he and Bumble and Bumble’s Jimmy Paul could exhale. The old friends were charged with the task of re-creating the backstage beauty from Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte’s presentations, as well as Marc Jacobs’ eighties spectacular, which struck us as the most difficult of the three to replicate. “I just tried to keep the black structure,” Kaliardos said of his version of François Nars’ epic turn at the Armory. He crafted a thick black cat-eye shape on all 20 Marc Jacobs models and filled them out with MAC pigments in varying shades of teal, kelly green, yellow, and fuchsia. For time purposes, each girl got a silver lip courtesy of MAC Pro Color Base in Birchbark, rather than the individual shades that Nars whipped up in February. Paul, for his part, executed the tri-colored chignons from Rodarte’s “deconstructed, reconstructed” show using different shades of Bumble and Bumble hair powder; got the Narciso slicked-back wet look with an aerosol version of the brand’s Holding Spray; and managed a near perfect rendition of some of Guido Palau’s most ambitious shapes at Marc—including our personal favorite, the “flame head.” Unwilling to speculate as to who he thought was going to take home the big prize, Paul did extrapolate on the state of beauty at the moment. “These shows were great examples of all the options women have with hair and makeup these days,” he said. “You can pull subtler pieces from each idea, so it’s really anything goes when the whistle blows. What a great time to be a woman.”
During fashion week, the line between friends and publicists, hair stylists, and makeup artists gets blurred since you see very little of the former and a whole lot of the latter. Abiding by this line of reasoning, I count Odile Gilbert as a compatriot for two months out of the year. Known as “the high priestess of hair,” she’s worked her magic backstage at Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, and Jean Paul Gaultier, among others, and in addition to a slew of commercial work, she was also responsible for Kirsten Dunst’s hair confections during the production of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. But while I may have the pleasure of talking tresses with Gilbert semiannually, I didn’t realize that my pal was so green-leaning until Leonor Greyl’s summer press dossier crossed my desk. Turns out, Gilbert’s been a fan of the all-natural French brand for as long as she can remember and counts its high-quality technical performance and nature-oriented products—as well as the fact that “they smell fantastic”—among the reasons that she chose to style Greyl’s summer campaign starring Italian model Marpessa. Included in her prescription for keeping hair protected and at bay this season, Gilbert recommends Greyl’s collection of oils, masks, and styling creams, specifically the Éclat Naturel, which she swears by for wavy and frizzy textures. “It makes hair ultra-shiny without affecting volume,” she says. Note to self: Discuss natural beauty with Gilbert the next time we “hang out.”
“A deconstructed, reconstructed” look is what makeup artist James Kaliardos was going for backstage at Rodarte yesterday, inspiration that came directly from designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who have apparently developed a fascination with the building and demolishing of homes. Kaliardos sectioned off the face, carving out cheekbones and the brow bone with MAC Pro Sculpting Powder in Warm Light, dragging a straight line of Frozen White Pigment from underneath the eye up toward the temple at an angle, and using a gray eye shadow called Scene in the crease. But disassembled architecture didn’t inspire the pale gray lip that’s becoming something of a staple this season. That was all Angelina Jolie. “I used to urge her to use beige,” Kaliardos recalled of advice he once gave the now reformed mother of six during her goth years, but Jolie simply would not part with her tube of Folio, a discontinued color that inspired the MAC Pro Lipmix shade Kaliardos whipped up for the show.
Ethereal pastels and nude makeup typically rear their soft-hued heads this time of year, but a few bold additions to the seasonal color palette are emerging as surprise standouts for spring. Coral, tangerine, and shades of orange are at the top of this list, with backstage looks from shows like Viktor & Rolf and Rodarte serving up some inspiration. The color is a tricky one to wear well and can easily verge into Ft. Lauderdale retiree or “experimental” adolescent territory. But when done right, it adds a fresh brightness to eyes, cheeks, and lips that pale pinks and earthy beiges simply cannot muster. As per usual, Yves Saint Laurent’s new color collection is totally on point, featuring a Fard à Lèvres Rouge Pur Pure Lipstick in Silky Apricot (on Coco above), a Gloss Pur Pure Lip Gloss in Pure Coral, and a Nail Touch Nail Lacquer Pen in Coral Touch, which has the same click mechanism as their Touche Éclat highlighters but delivers glossy varnish to nails instead. Feel free to match lips and nails, but we’re of the mind that subtlety everywhere else—like a sheer gloss on eyes and a few coats of brown mascara—make the look even stronger.