7 posts tagged "Roksanda Ilincic"
After a Fall show season full of colorful cat-eyes (blue at Anna Sui, chartreuse at VPL, red at 3.1 Phillip Lim) and abstract interpretations of graphic black etchings (Tom Pecheux’s double line at Altuzarra and Andrew Gallimore’s “floating” triangles at Erdem immediately come to mind), eyeliner appears to be continuing its backstage domination well into Resort. To reflect the cruise season’s textures, bold prints, and pops of color, designers like Acne’s Jonny Johansson, Antonio Marras, and Roksanda Ilincic have been requesting inventively lined lids rather than more obvious bright lips, when it comes to statement-making face painting.
It all started at Acne, where Lisa Butler used Sunday Riley’s forthcoming Velvet Gel Pencil in Pitch Black to create thick geometric wings on the inner and outer corners of models’ lids. The technique, which she completed by filling in the shapes with Riley’s Eye Color in Little Black Dress, was something of an optical illusion: At first glance, girls appeared to be sporting a perfectly normal flick, but a subtle blink of the eye revealed a much more detailed design. Jeanine Lobell followed suit at Stella McCartney, adding “a little bit of an edge” to McCartney’s normally fresh-faced vision with a black line along the lower lash line only.
Then Isabella Sabbioni took things Technicolor at Antonio Marras this week, cashing in traditional black kohl for a flash of jade green pigment, which she thickly scrawled along both the upper and lower lash lines, dragging her brush outward and upward toward the temple. At Roksanda Ilincic, Lauren Parsons stayed the colored course, blending MAC Pigments in coral and fuchsia with its Mixing Medium gloss to create a blurred red half moon through models’ creases. “It’s a different effect from every angle,” Parsons noted of her handiwork that was meant to look as though “it wasn’t too thought about. Effortless beauty rules,” she says—a boon to amateur makeup artists looking to experiment with pro liner techniques in the comfort of their own homes.
We first saw them last season at Chloé, where Charlotte Tilbury was crafting the “chicer side of hippie”: freckles—lots of them, stenciled across the bridge of the nose and onto cheeks, “just where the sun would hit you,” the makeup artist explained. It was a quirky touch that worked with the rocker chick, music festival vibe she was going for at the time, and one that continues to have legs for Spring. Tilbury has turned sun spots into a season-spanning affair, etching them onto clean complexions at Donna Karan in New York and Nicole Farhi in London with MAC Lip Pencil in Hodge Podge—and she’s not the only one making beauty marks. Val Garland reached for MAC Lip Pencils in Cork and Burgundy and its Eye Pencil in Coffee backstage at Jeremy Scott for her “Daisy Duke goes to Paradise City” homage, Lucia Pica chose its Eye Brows in Lingering backstage at Roksanda Ilincic, and just yesterday, Pat McGrath followed suit at D&G. It’s an interesting move, considering the skincare establishment’s emphasis on SPF products to prevent freckles from ever rearing their cute little heads. But since we happen to have a permanent faceful of them, we’re not complaining. What do you think of the technique: better left on the runway or totally worth trying come spring?
Roksanda Ilincic’s Spring collection may have had a slight fifties influence to it, but she had her beauty team focus on an entirely different decade. “We went with a nineties, grungy look,” hairstylist Marc Trinder said, focusing on “hung-over Kurt Cobain hair” that he air-dried with his fingers, coating strands with “a lot” of Charles Worthington Frontrow Serum for piecey-ness. Makeup artist Lucia Pica drew inspiration from that other grunge icon: Kate Moss. “The girls are supposed to look more magazine grunge than street grunge—more Steven Meisel than Corrine Day,” Pica elaborated, creating a slightly warm base with St. Tropez Naturals Radiance Self-Tan for Face topped off with a soft yellow, peachy flush courtesy of MAC Blush in Dusty Coral and a muted yellow Chromacake. Then things got really interesting. To capture those quintessential nineties brows, “the skinny round ones we all used to have when we were younger, that we’re lucky grew back,” Pica broke out some clever makeup trickery. Rather than maniacally pluck out individual hairs until nothing but a thin arch remained (commence high school flashbacks now), she brushed a bit of MAC Lip Erase through roots to take them down a bit before drawing in a half moon shape with MAC Brow Pencil and blending it for a diffused finish. The effect isn’t quite as severe as the original, but it also isn’t as permanent; if only we knew then what we know now.
The dark lips? The sculpted cheeks? The sheer, smoldering eyes? Helmet Newton references were indeed afoot backstage at Roksanda Ilincic yesterday, where makeup artist Lucia Pica was channeling the photographer’s special brand of severe glamour. “Sophisticated and groomed, but not too pretty,” Pica elaborated, dragging MAC Fluidline Eyeliner Gel in Blacktrack along both the top and bottom lash lines and extending her brushstroke out toward models’ temples to create an elongated shape. For her next trick, Pica coated lids with MAC Eyeshadow in Cork, a sepia brown shade that enhances the natural color of the skin, before turning her attention to cheeks, which were sculpted with off-kilter shades of foundation and highlighted with a few finger dabs of MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Shell. As for that showstopping lip, Pica hand-blended an assortment of glosses with MAC Lipstick in Film Noir for a high-shine, deep berry finish—the first burgundy-hued pout we’ve seen thus far this season and the same shade that inspired manicurist Sophy Robson’s copper-tinged bordeaux nails. It was all delectably nineties with a slight seventies flair, thanks to long, loose waves that hairstylist Shon prepped with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam before middle-parting, setting for a curl, and brushing through.
Interestingly, a few girls turned up backstage with slightly bleached arches that Pica and Shon decided to leave as is, sending a mixed bag of brows onto the runway. Call us crazy, but we actually preferred the way the strong makeup and soft hair looked with the blocked-out forehead fringe. You too?
Roksanda Ilincic had a touch of disco fever at her show in London yesterday, and backstage you could feel the boogie-oogie-oogie vibe, too, albeit in a post-aughts adaptation. Focused on creating something chic and modern, yet equally glam, makeup artist Lucia Pica used MAC Glitter in Reflects Gold and Beige on the inner corner of models’ eyes, extending the shimmery mix across the eyelids and onto the temples before spinning a fresh, wet look by smudging Vaseline along the bottom lash line. On the lips, she layered MAC’s Russian Red, Spice It Up!, and Cocochina—that perfect shade of chocolate berry that Charlotte Tilbury debuted at DKNY—for a dark, lacquered killer pout. The look truly came to life with hairstylist James Pecis’ ingeniously constructed fluffy, frizzy, flyaways—think Grace Coddington meets the towering Afros at Louis Vuitton’s Spring show. Wrapping sections of hair around pieces of wire in a figure eight shape, Pecis clamped them with hot irons then brushed each segment out, revealing soft, weightless, fuzzy manes that were meant to “move for the upbeat catwalk music.” And shake their groove things they did.