5 posts tagged "Romano Ricci"
For the bulk of Romano Ricci’s olfactory career, the Juliette Has a Gun creator has focused on a single protagonist—an adaptation of Shakespeare’s great heroine infused with a whole lot of attitude. And so it went with scents like Miss Charming, Lady Vengeance, Citizen Queen, and his most recent release, Romantina, all of which honed in on different adaptations of the same rebellious-feminine theme with fragrance compositions that centered around antique rose notes. With his latest perfume, however, Ricci sought to create something that embodied the reaction of other people to his girl, rather than the girl herself. “Mad Madame enjoys being looked at and igniting conversations,” Ricci explains of the green chypre scent of the same name that boasts notes of black currant bud absolute; a strong dose of the synthetic ambroxan, which makes itself known in the dry-down; hints of soft, balancing peony; and earthy, sensual additions of patchouli and tuberose absolute. Its star ingredient is a rose heart, as you may have guessed, although this rose is anything but predictable. The green rose oxide, which has a metallic quality to it, imparts a cutting freshness to prevent this uncharacteristically red bottle from ever becoming too sweet—which makes sense for Ricci’s enduring character profile as well. “For this new episode I wanted to pay tribute to a woman slightly more mature than the previous episodes, but by no means better behaved.”
Two years ago, Romano Ricci took a slight detour from his original Juliette Has a Gun narrative with Not a Perfume, a singular ode to the synthetic, woodsy/musky ingredient Ambroxan. But up until that point, the niche fragrance line created by Nina Ricci’s grandson in 2006 had predominantly relied on the familiarity of antique rose essences spiked and spliced with a number of uniquely complementary notes: His debut offerings created by legendary perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming, were rounded out with patchouli and vanilla, and wild berries respectively; Citizen Queen featured additional hints of leather, iris, and immortal flowers; and Midnight Oud showcased touches of oud, geranium, and saffron layered with its heart of Moroccan rose. With his latest release, Ricci is returning to his floral roots in a major way. “There’s a hint of frivolity,” he says of Romantina, a rose eau that’s inspired by a modern love story set in Rome and is blended heavily with a bouquet of white flowers—jasmine, orange blossom, and iris, specifically. A base of patchouli and warm vanilla ensure that the scent doesn’t err too far on the ultra feminine side and that it retains a certain depth, which is uncommon of most unabashedly floral flacons—not to mention Ricci’s perfume protagonist; his Juliette has never been much of the waiting-on-the-balcony type.
The house that Nina Ricci built has a knack for churning out desirable creations. Take Peter Copping’s Spring collection for the brand that just wrapped in Paris a few hours ago: There were more girly and gorgeous, gotta-have-it pieces in the show than we can recall here (more on that in a bit). It seems the apple hasn’t fallen too far from the tree. Much like his grandmother, fragrance connoisseur Romano Ricci has become similarly adept at releasing lust objects—and his new perfume venture is no exception. The latest scent in his Juliette Has a Gun range culls inspiration from his original, best-selling, rose patchouli and vanilla offering, Lady Vengeance. But as its name suggests, Vengeance Extreme is darker, deeper, and more robust than its predecessor. A massive overdose of the same ingredients in higher concentrations yields a truly sensual floral chypre that wears with a luscious, intoxicating feel on the skin. Ricci himself has always considered perfume the ultimate weapon of seduction, and in that regard, this eau should be considered armed and dangerous.
About $135 for 100 ml, www.colette.fr.
Jane Birkin’s offspring are taking over the fragrance industry. As previously reported, Charlotte Gainsbourg is fronting the new Balenciaga perfume. Now, Lou Doillon has allied herself with Juliet Has a Gun creator Romano Ricci for his latest olfactory offering, Calamity J. Branded as “a masculine-inspired fragrance exclusively dedicated to women,” the amber and iris eau officially launches tomorrow on beautyhabit.com, but here’s a preview of the ad images. Ricci met Doillon at a party, where all great collaborative ideas are hatched, and was actually drawn to the model/actress because of her smell. “She was wearing my perfume, Lady Vengeance,” he recalls. The connection between the two didn’t end there. Doillon happened to be studying the story of Calamity Jane for a theater project and was fully enthralled with the defiant heroine of the old West, who had also recently enraptured Ricci. “I liked that she wasn’t afraid to break codes,” he said of the frontierswoman. It was with her adventurous spirit in mind that he embarked on the fourth installment of his scent collection. A lady who wore chaps, cussed, spit tobacco, and frequently bested all of the men around her with an admirable sharp-shooting ability sounds like a very sexy fragrance muse to us. But pictures of a tough-chic Doillon don’t hurt either.
When Romano Ricci broke onto the niche fragrance scene in 2006, his first foray into the olfactory world had success written all over it before his Juliette Has a Gun collection even hit counters. He has a fashion pedigree that dates back to one of the original twentieth-century couture houses (his great-grandmother is Nina of the same last name), but his truly original idea (create a line of perfumes inspired by Shakespeare’s heroine, using antique rose notes at the heart of each scent) didn’t hurt matters one bit. Fragrance fanatics chomped at the bit to get their hands on his first two offerings, Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance. Now, after parting ways with his “nose,” Francis Kurkdjian, the third chapter in Ricci’s story arrives this month, intended to evoke the mysterious side of his protagonist with high concentrations of rare ingredients like Iris Absolute. Possessing the signature rose centerpiece, Citizen Queen, as the new fragrance is called, is destined to follow in the favorable footsteps of its predecessors—as the saying goes: “a rose by any other name…”