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August 30 2014

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5 posts tagged "Romy Soleimani"

Carolyn Murphy Talks About Her Stance on Selfies and Pleasing Her Toughest Critic

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carolyn-murphy-1When it comes to making a red-carpet appearance, Carolyn Murphy knows what she wants and whom she likes, and for this year’s Met Gala the routine and glam squad were no different. (After all, she was a member of the “insular crowd” attending the ball long before Beyoncé and Jay Z ever received an invite.) Romy Soleimani, her makeup artist of “many, many years,” was on hand, defining the catwalker’s already-chiseled cheekbones with Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Insatiable Ivory, and dabbing a bespoke blend of this particular nude and Potent (a peachy pink hue) on her pout. Her radiant complexion can be attributed to a recent trip to Mexico, along with the help of Estée Lauder Double Wear Brush-On Glow BB, and a few drops of Advanced Night Repair serum mixed with a vanilla pigment from the PureColor EyeShadow Trio in Gilded Chocolates. “We can pop the eye and do a really bare lip, or do a really great lip and a bare eye—never the two together,” said Murphy. “Some people might call it boring or playing it safe, but at least I feel good this way and that’s all that matters.”

Well, not all that mattered. Her 13-year-old daughter, Dylan, had big expectations—including selfies with the likes of Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, and Taylor Swift. And although Murphy is obviously comfortable in front of the camera (appearing on countless covers over the past fourteen years), taking her own photo is another thing entirely. “I almost put ‘If you’re looking for selfies, don’t expect them here’ in my [Instagram] bio,” she quipped. But her personal stance on the subject of self-promotion was put on hold for the evening, as the pressure to be viewed as “cool” by her middle schooler took precedence. (For the record, Murphy grammed one pic from an after-party, posing next to none other than Erykah Badu.)

Before selfies can be snapped, however, there was a lot of prepping involved: “This afternoon I did fifteen minutes on the treadmill to get the blood flowing, and then the StairMaster. I came back up [to my room], took a quick shower, put deep conditioner in my hair, and then took a hot bath with sea salt, [followed by] a cold shower to rinse everything off,” noted Murphy. “I also did a Triad facial yesterday. I chopped off my hair last Thursday—I forgot about that! I chopped it off and went blonder.” The super explained that her strands were orange after a recent photo shoot, sending her running to Corinne Adams at Serge Normant to undo the damage in time for the big night at the museum. Her one-of-a-kind Roberto Capucci gown was also a game-time decision: “My original dress was opposite of the theme,” Murphy revealed. “We always set out in a certain direction and usually we’re really prepared, but this year there were some last-minute changes.”

When the total package was finally put together and accessorized with Fred Leighton jewels, you’d never be able to tell Murphy’s look wasn’t meticulously planned for months. While the verdict is still out on whether this supermodel mom scored points with her most ardent critic back home, if she had posted a selfie in her “Estée Lauder-blue” gown, I would have undoubtedly hit like.

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Photos: Ibra Ake

Seeing Red

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Last Spring, blue made a strong case for eye makeup color of the season, as liners and shadows in shades that ranged from aqua and turquoise to cobalt and navy turned up on the runways in full force. And it’s proved a hard habit to kick for Fall, too, as makeup artists like Diane Kendal and Hannah Murray have turned to midnight and robin’s-egg iterations of the hue at shows like Jason Wu and Topshop Unique, respectively. But there’s another color that’s staking a claim to the season, and it’s a rather unexpected one at that. “There’s a sort of seventies feeling to it,” James Kaliardos said of MAC’s forthcoming Rusted Red cream eye shadow that he blended onto lids backstage at Diane von Furstenberg, which followed a similar move by Charlotte Tilbury at Prabal Gurung, where she used the ruddy color to create a fresh, young, stained effect on eyes. In their more saturated outings, cranberry lids have showed up at Cynthia Rowley, courtesy of Romy Soleimani and her trusty compact of Stila Eyeshadow in Pigalle; at Altuzarra, where Tom Pecheux swiped MAC’s metallic raspberry eye shadow in Loves Lure underneath models’ lower lash lines for a “spooky” feel; and just yesterday at Gucci, where Pat McGrath borrowed a deep claret from Frida Giannini’s collection and turned it into a greasy, bold eye, replete with bleached brows for a molten finish. We have a feeling it won’t be the last we’ll be seeing of the color in Europe.

Considering Crimson, Again

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Red lips are a dime a dozen these days. From the runway to the red carpet, and increasingly in the real world, they’ve regained their previous icon status, becoming a—nay, the—culture-crossing beauty statement of the last few years. So how do you update something that has, in its ubiquity, become almost ordinary? You make it complicated—really, really complicated. Or so the thinking went backstage at Kenneth Cole Collection, a comeback show for the designer, where makeup artist Romy Soleimani used not one, not two, but five different products to create a series of diffused “New York urban” mouths. Lining lips with MAC Lip Pencil in Nightmoth, a dark raisin (that’s one), Soleimani filled them in with a blend of its Lipstick in Cyber, a deep blackberry, at the corners (that’s two) and Ruby Woo, a true scarlet, in the center (that’s three). She then framed pouts with another etching of MAC Lip Pencil in Cherry along the perimeter (that’s four), going back in with its Chromagraphic Pencil in Black Black in the corners (that’s five), before using a lip brush to blend the mix of pigments, creating an ombré effect. Add to that hairstylist Didier Malige’s slicked-back coifs that relied on Jonathan Product’s Silky Dirt Shine & Define Crème for a super-sleek finish, and the new-era red lip became the focal point of the face—and our renewed interest in the crimson institution.

Photo: Chelsea Lauren/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Liner Notes

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If you’ve taken a flip through the second issue of Style.com/Print, you know that we’re particularly excited about the proliferation of colored cat-eyes on the Fall runways. After classic black iterations of the winged liner technique made a big showing for Spring, makeup artists came up with all kinds of newfangled updates on the retro flick at the shows in February. There was Pat McGrath’s thick scrawl of cobalt blue at Anna Sui, Francelle Daly’s slick of glossy red at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Romy Soleimani’s custom mix of Obsessive Compulsive Liptars in shades of chartreuse and mustard, which she multitasked on eyes backstage at VPL. But getting that perfectly clean point—no matter the color—is easier said than done. We got a good liner lesson during a recent chat with celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff that’s definitely worth sharing: “Always use a pencil first to guide the shape.” Cream shadows and liquid liners will provide more stark opacity, she admits, but pencils are invaluable as a first step to getting a catlike effect—which is why we’ve been loving Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup’s new Crayon Intense liners of late. Part of its new floral-inspired Bouquet collection, the six-piece range includes three easy-to-wield existing shades like the deep green Agave, purple Lilac, and rose-gold Shimmer, as well as three new “fashion” shades in Acqua, a bright azure; Mint, a seafoam green; and Lemon, a bright yellow. After you sharpen the pencils, be sure to round the tip, then trace your upper lash line at will (editor’s note: keeping a makeup remover-soaked Q-tip on hand to correct any slip-ups is key). The three new shades happen to look pretty cool dragged straight out beneath the lower lash line as well.

$29 each, available April 2012 at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Photo: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

Why You Can’t Go Wrong With Red Lipstick; Still Spreading The Lacquer Love; And More…

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Red lipstick is a holiday staple, and according to François Nars, you really can’t go wrong with a bold crimson mouth. “When it comes to choosing a red lipstick, there are no rules,” the makeup maestro recently told Barneys’ Simon Doonan. “Just go for what you are most attracted
to.” [Racked]

Speaking of holiday party makeup dos and don’ts, makeup artist Romy Soleimani has a foolproof way of avoiding powder and concealer mishaps. “If your concealer looks lighter than your skin, it’ll look even lighter in a [camera] flash,” she explains. Her advice: “Use a concealer, then layer your foundation on top.” [Allure]

The end-of-year beauty sales figures are in and the winner is nail polish. According to a report by the market research company The NPD Group, sales of trendy polish shades increased by a whopping 59 percent in the U.S. during the first ten months of 2011. [NYDN]

Fans of Givaudan’s iPerfumer app, rejoice: The fragrance house has just debuted iPerfumer 2, a revamped sophomore effort. Now you can simply type in your favorite notes and ingredients and the new and improved app will recommend a perfume for you. [Cosmetics-Design Europe]

Photo: Courtesy of NARS Cosmetics