49 posts tagged "Sam McKnight"
Peter Philips is known as the master of makeup invention, and when it came to the eyelashes at Dries Van Noten, he certainly spun standard string into beauty gold. After evening out complexions with foundation and powdering the skin, he dusted Chanel Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Ivory (a pearl tone with a hint of shimmer) to provide lids with “a bit of depth.” Then he added sparkle to lashes via metallic thread. “You can never find a gold mascara that does this, and [false] lashes look too drag queen-y,” Philips explained. After snipping the delicate cord into small pieces with a pair of manicuring scissors and dotting models’ natural fringe with eyelash glue, he placed the tinsel-like fibers individually with a pair of tweezers. To frame the face and make the eyebrows uniform, Philips traced slightly outside arches using the Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil in a shade slightly darker than each girl’s hair color; taking away the curve and replacing it with an elongated and angular shape. Lips were toned down with a touch of base just before showtime.
Sharp side parts inspired by Tamara de Lempicka (an art deco painter with Polish roots) and Loulou de la Falaise (Yves Saint Laurent’s muse) were gilded with a mix of hair wax and gold leaf. Hairstylist Sam McKnight washed hair with Pantene Pro-V Aqua Light Shampoo so that it was free of product or shine that would detract from the graphic stripe. He used a steel tail comb to divide the hair from left to right, then worked Sebastian Mousse Forte through the top section and brushed strands behind the ears with a Mason Pearson. A net was pressed over the crown, hit with a blow-dryer, and set with hairspray. The length was left “raw” and misted with water to revive any natural texture. The end result was a look that would make King Midas proud.
“Wigs have become the new hats—they’ve taken over and look really fresh.”
Above, we pay homage to the boyish bowl cuts we’ve seen thus far this season at Marc Jacobs and Fendi. As for the best thing about this high-fashion hair fad: You can remove the choppy crop just as fast as you try it on.
Everything is going digital these days—a fact acknowledged by Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi this season. The concept was infused into the collection via graphic shapes rendered in close-cropped fur and bold blocks of chiffon, while face-painter Peter Philips translated the creative director’s “digital code” into one distinctive hit of “chemical peach” on the lips, a shade inspired by the show’s invitation (pictured above). After outlining the mouth with Make Up For Ever Aqua Lip Waterproof Lip Liner Pencil in 18C, he filled it in using Rouge Artist Intense in 39 straight from the tube. “It’s a bit of an odd [hue] that has a very classic feeling—it could be a sixties lipstick,” the face-painter explained, “but it’s also very futuristic looking.” The rest of the face was devoid of color, using foundation and powder not only to lend a “satin-matte” finish to models’ complexions, but for practical purposes as well: “It’s easier to brush the [clippings] from the wigs off of this type of texture,” he said. After running a thin stripe of Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Ébène across the upper rims, he curled the top lashes and locked in the shape with Inimitable Waterproof Mascara.
The short and choppy mop tops, created by hairstylist Sam McKnight, were influenced by Lagerfeld’s original sketch, Linda Evangelista in the eighties, the Beatles, and “a little Japanese thing thrown in,” he said. To blur away the individual and create a singular army of Fendi-bots, black wigs were fitted to each girl and tailored into a bowlish shape using a razor. “I wanted to keep it looking wiggy,” McKnight added. “Not kid people into thinking this was real hair.” The imperfect crops were finished with a liberal dose of Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray for a “fluffy, not dirty” finish. If the Kaiser and the King of New York (Marc Jacobs) have given the bowl cut the green light, perhaps it’s time to think about using your dishware for things other than cereal, and replacing the spoon with a pair of scissors. Or maybe just trying the trend on for size at the nearest wig shop…
Michelle Williams is Louis Vuitton’s Latest Siren; Lena Dunham Wigs Out; and One Direction’s New Cosmetics Line
This morning, WWD released images from Louis Vuitton’s latest accessories campaign, shot by Peter Lindbergh and starring new spokeswoman Michelle Williams. In her first major fashion endorsement since a Band of Outsiders gig several seasons ago, the A-lister sports an artfully mussed pixie cut by Sam McKnight and a siren red pout courtesy of Stéphane Marais.
Lena Dunham has been papped all over New York and Brooklyn while shooting season three of Girls. But she’s her own best advertisement, taking to Instagram to post a few selfies in wigs, accompanied by expectedly witty captions such as: “It’s 1973 and this aspiring backup singer is looking for love in all the wrong places” or “It’s 1984 and this club promoter (Ronnie) had to move back in with his ma.” Needless to say, the posts got their fair share of likes.
Teen pop sensation One Direction has teamed up with MUA Cosmetics on a range of products for UK beauty and health retailer Superdrug. The heartthrobs’ Little Things Collection will include lipsticks, lip polishes, cheek tints, and nail lacquers—in a range of colors and flavors. Harry Styles is reportedly a fan of the strawberry lip polish, while Louis Tomlinson is into vanilla.
While there were plenty of sleek chignons (Dior) and glossy blow-outs (Giambattista Valli, as well as Naomi Campbell’s Atelier Versace cameo) at the recent Couture shows, rockabilly pompadours made a bigger punch. Backstage before Karl Lagerfeld’s spectacle at the Grand Palais, hairstylist Sam McKnight explained that he used “quite a lot” of hair spray to mold the models’ “Grace Jones flattops,” which were echoed, albeit in a softer way, later that day at Bouchra Jarrar. We noticed similarly teased and slicked-back looks—seen on models Katlin Aas and Anne Verhallen—in the Fall ’13 Miu Miu campaign released earlier this week.
Photos: Getty Images / GoRunway.com / Courtesy of Miu Miu