48 posts tagged "Sam McKnight"
In case it wasn’t clear from the glistening black backdrop and the neon-lit replica of the Place Vendôme that set the stage for last night’s Chanel Couture presentation, a dramatic, evening-inspired theme helped guide the beauty look created by the house’s creative director of makeup, Peter Philips. “Karl mentioned the masculine/feminine silhouette, the fact that we were going to do a show at night—and the flashlight shoes,” Philips elaborated, pointing out the boot tips that glowed with violet light. “That’s where the veil/burglar idea came from.” He meant the lace overlays that coiffing star Sam McKnight placed across models’ eyes and secured in a pinned-down mass of coiled strands behind each ear.
Covered as they were, Philips’ still focused on lids seen through the latticework of the makeshift masks. After creating a base with Chanel Vitalumière Aqua foundation, Philips added a velvety peach cheek using Chanel’s new Joues Contraste blush in Rose Ecrin. Then he broke out his big launch for fall, the delectably textured Illusion d’Ombre eye shadow in Mirifique, “a pitch black with starlight sparkles,” he described of the precise color that he took across lids and underneath the lower lash line in a large elongated shape, “for eyes that see in the dark.” Finishing touches came in the form of Chanel Le Vernis in Blue Satin, a timeless dark navy lacquer, and a slick of Rouge Allure Velvet in La Furtive, a creamy shade of sandy pink—”perfect for stealing kisses,” Philips joked.
The Chanel show always offers up a well-choreographed example of how the connection between high fashion and beauty can be a seamless one. Karl Lagerfed tells his go-to face painter, Peter Philips, about his sartorial vision—the fabrics, the colors, the themes (which for Fall included a dark forest equipped with dancing shadows and breaks of light)—and Philips doesn’t just oblige with a corresponding makeup look, he actually makes products to properly fit the bill. This season, it was all about metallics. “It’s just communication,” Philips says of the unique designer/makeup artist relationship. “Karl said he wanted silver,” and so Philips turned to Épatant, a gunmetal shade from his new-for-autumn Illusion d’Ombre cream eye shadow collection, which he mixed with two of the range’s other shimmering shades in white and black to create the focal point of the look. “They come with an applicator, but I prefer to use my finger,” Philips said of the mousse-y pigments, which can go on thick for opacity or sheered out for transparency. “You can actually use it as an eyeliner, too,” he pointed out—dipping an angled brush into the sparkling onyx pot and scrawling it across the upper lash line. A similar smudged line was drawn using Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner in Ébène below the lower lash line before Philips whipped on a few coats of its Inimitable Waterproof mascara in Noir. Finishing touches came in the form of a pinkish nude lip from Philips’ forthcoming Rouge Allure lipstick offerings and a ten-finger salute to the gray/gold Graphite, the latest addition to the Chanel nail polish arsenal.
Lagerfeld has a similar rapport with coiffeur Sam McKnight. “Karl always sends a sketch,” McKnight said of the inspiration behind his “simple little side knots.” Prepping hair with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, McKnight created side parts, adding a slight bend with a curling iron and then letting hair fall out in wisps around the back of the head, where he gathered the remaining lengths into a loose chignon. “We’re keeping it young and fresh,” he said, spraying a halo of Pantene Classic Hairspray for hold—and also embodying the boy-meets-girl trend Lagerfeld successfully interpreted on the runway. Half of the loose, tomboy twists were embellished with Chanel jewelry baubles so there was an elegance at play to balance out all those biker boots.
Remember last month when we spotlighted Kristina Salinovic‘s super-sweet fade and pointed out that we thought it might be contributing to her stellar season so far? Well, it seems as though Nicola Formichetti feels similarly. Not only did the Mugler designer have the Croatian stunner open his highly anticipated Fall women’s show—his first for the house—he seems to have instructed coiffing star Sam McKnight to mimic the front of her now statement, side-parted crop on the 20 girls that came out behind her. Both black and blond varieties made cameos, calling to mind Salinovic’s recent appearance in Love‘s androgyny issue, in which she sports a platinum streak down her otherwise raven-hued locks. As for the rest of the models, they received either bleached, gelled-up fan shapes protruding above their ears or long, middle-parted bangs left out and dangling loose below the chin. All 35 of them were given long, mid-back grazing ponytails as well, except, of course, for one lone catwalker. Lady Gaga got two ponytails worn as pigtails, which the she whipped back and forth with a bravado possessed by her alone.
In case you somehow missed it, what with all the fun-with-fonts prints, plastic charm necklaces, and sneakers with wedge heels (on the runway!), the theme at D&G for Fall was “street couture,” according to Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce’s reigning makeup mistress, Pat McGrath. A requisite “graphic” eye followed suit, which McGrath drew onto models’ upper lash lines in a thick stroke with a sixties flick at the outer corners using Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #5 Black. To add depth and brightness, McGrath etched its Crayon Intense Eyeliner in #13 White along the inner rim of the lower lash line before turning to her trusty tube of mascara and her increasing, somewhat out-of-character reliance on brow pencils and powders (see Sui, Anna; Mendel, J.; and Prada for further evidence that the queen of the bleached brow may be changing her ways). Cheeks were lightly carved out with a soft swipe of blush along cheekbones, and lips were left natural to maintain the image of a “modern young woman”—who happens to have a thing for nail polish. Tips were painted in a rainbow of colors, including orange-red, bright yellow, and metallic purple (as evidenced above) to coordinate with the designers fluoro-centric collection.
As for the hair, coiffing star Sam McKnight took a page out of Guido Palau’s book at Rag & Bone, washing models’ strands on site with Pantene’s Color Preserve shampoo and middle-parting them to provide the light, airy texture clean hair takes on before it gets bogged down with product. A laborious undertaking, no doubt, but one that yields a fresh, finished product that moves quite well as it sashays down the catwalk.
It was one of the most heralded Spring shows—who doesn’t love a crisp white t-shirt as eveningwear?—so it’s no surprise that pieces from Raf Simons’ Jil Sander collection are starting to wow on the red carpet. At the 2010 Hollywood Style Awards in L.A. last night, Kate Bosworth borrowed look no. 1 from the catwalk, right down to Sam McKnight’s sleek pulled-back chignon and Peter Philips’ retina-burning fuchsia lip. It’s rare that full looks translate off the runway, but this one works, don’t you think?