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August 28 2014

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4 posts tagged "Sebastian"

Graphic Design, Backstage at Fendi

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blog“It’s about purity of line,” hairstylist Sam McKnight explained of the sharp and minimal look he crafted at Fendi. “Karl sent me an illustration with a very small head.” To keep strands compact, McKnight employed a lot of Sebastian hairspray and made two side partings on either side of the face, dividing the hair into two small sections near the crown. Next, he folded the sections over one another, tying each off into a ponytail with a piece of elastic. “It’s like a basket weave or origami,” he noted of his technique. Then the sides were scraped back to cover the elastic and gathered into a low pony, which was later wrapped with a piece of the tail to hide the band. While the style appeared seamless, it required “pins and grips” (which were pulled out after the hair was set into place) and at least two pros per model to create.

Playing off the linear elements in the hair, face painter Peter Philips opted for cinematic highlighting and shading over a “proper makeup statement.” Seeing as the collection was filled with stark contrasts—tough fabrics and delicate orchids; fluffy furs and shiny, sleek jackets—he wanted to keep the look strong but simple, so as not to clash with or overtake the clothes. A full-coverage foundation was used to perfect complexions before it was powdered to a semi-matte finish. Then he applied a pure white Mehron CreamBlend Stick on the cheekbones. Philips said he tested out a pearly illuminator but found the result “too pretty,” and these girls needed to be “tough.” A taupe, matte pigment was run along the hollows of the cheeks, and eyes were given a graphic feel with a blend of two brown Make Up For Ever shadows (#17 and #165) just on the outer corners. Not wanting a cat-eye effect, Philips concentrated the color on “the spot between the socket and the eyeball,” angling it downward, “like old photos of Marlene Dietrich or seventies Guy Bourdin makeup.” Lips were topped off with transparent gloss. “It doesn’t look natural, but 50 percent of the makeup will blend in with the light on the catwalk,” he explained. And Philips was right. With drones buzzing overhead, the intense, almost-theatrical contours disappeared—all that remained were models’ perfectly chiseled features as Cara Delevingne kicked off the show, a Lagerfeld-like Fendi bug daintily dangling between her thumb and forefinger.

“Dark, Nordic” Beauty, Backstage At Fendi

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“Karl likes an eye,” Peter Philips admitted backstage at Fendi this morning—a partiality that Lagerfeld has certainly made clear over the last three seasons at the Italian house. And while following Spring’s gold and silver foil eye shadow was certainly no small task, Philips made quick work of it for Fall, painting lids with a “feathered” white brushstroke of MAC Lipmix. “There are white details in the collection,” the makeup artist explained, referencing the antelope furs specifically while scrawling a thin black line across the upper lash line with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner. A few slicks of mascara on top lashes only provided a hint of additional embellishment.

“I need pins! It’s a big-time pin situation over here,” Lily Donaldson chirped from Philips’ chair, beckoning Sam McKnight to come over and fix her double halo of hair twists. “It’s a dark, Nordic look,” the hairdresser remarked of the style, pointing out that his sleek, embellished coifs were meant to be “almost Victorian, not fairy-tale.” Prepping models’ strands with Sebastian Forte Strong Hold Gel, McKnight created precise middle parts, separating out two low pigtails, which he divided into sections and “twisted like a rope.” “There’s a childlike quality to it,” he surmised, fastening small elastics on each twist’s ends before ultimately removing them for an “undone” effect. It was labor-intensive, to say the least. “We started at 6 a.m.,” McKnight divulged of the call time for the 11:30 a.m. show.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Pamela Love: Visionary

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Pamela Love’s fantastical oeuvre has included gilded bird skulls, snake-charmer quartz pendants, and rings adorned with giant hearts—the organ, not the shape. Her jewelry, much like her appealingly unruly mane of twists and knots, is hard to miss. That’s likely why Sebastian chose her to be a visionary for its classic Re-Shaper hair spray, which is celebrating its 25th birthday this year (past visionaries have included fashion insider types like Charlotte Ronson and Cory Kennedy). Love will appear in ads for the best-selling spray, and a limited-edition bottle inspired by her designs is now available. The jewelry maker and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee took a few minutes away from her pre-fashion week preparations to chat about her new hair-related gig.

Who are some of the people you consider visionaries?

I definitely consider some of my favorite artists to be visionaries. Louise Nevelson, Louise Bourgeois, Patti Smith, Jennifer Herrema from Royal Trux, Anaïs Nin, and style visionaries like Veruschka, Anita Pallenberg, and of course Bianca Jagger. Her humanitarian work, plus the fact that she was married to Mick Jagger, she wears white tuxedoes…I mean, come on! All those women really blow my mind.

How would you describe your hair?

My hair has a very rough texture, wavy, borderline curly, and pretty long. Sometimes it can get really, really, really big and then other times it’s straighter; it all depends on the weather and how I sleep on it. It tends to get dreads and can be frizzy, but, honestly, I kinda like that.

Any regrettable or crazy hair moments in your past that you care to share?

I used to dye it pink and highlight it and do all kinds of weird colors, and I chemically straightened it twice. But I think the funniest story is that when I was younger, I had really long, ratty hair, actually much like what I still have now, and my grandmother could not stand it. She would always be scolding me to get my hair out of my face and comb it and so on. Then one day when I wasn’t paying attention, she took all of my hair in her hands and cut it off with a pair of kitchen scissors. She was a real tough, intense Czechoslovakian woman.

Are you into Sebastian’s Re-Shaper hair spray?

It’s funny because when Sebastian approached me, I was already really familiar with the brand. I’ve used their products, especially their conditioners, for years, and my mom always used the Potion No 9. I wasn’t ever really a big hair spray person, but I found that I like using this one because it keeps it kind of big and curly without getting stiff and gross. And I can put my fingers through it; there’s no combing happening here.

Do you have a hair icon?

Definitely Stevie Nicks. I love the texture, the length, the way she kind of just let it do its thing. I admire people who just accept the hair they have and go with it.

Sebastian Re-Shaper Hair Spray, $17, www.sebastianprofessional.com.

Three Quintessential Summer Hair Survival Tips

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Despite current New York temperatures that feel more autumn than spring, summer is coming (fingers crossed). Time to adjust your beauty regimen. Apropos to hair specifically, some decisions need to be made if you’re going to make it through the heat and humidity unscathed. So we’ve turned to Manhattan-based master stylist Mark Garrison, who graciously offered up his top three tips for looking cool when things get hot.

Go Long

“Keep your layers longer in the summer,” Garrison advises, as short, choppy sections don’t fare as well when pitted against sun, sea, and sweat-inducing barometer shifts.



Steer Clear of the Straight and Narrow

“Embrace your natural texture so you’re not a victim of the ‘fuzzy blow-out,’ ” Garrison says, suggesting that even manually adding definition and movement with a curling iron will help you battle the bulge from high-humidity levels.

Prep and Repair

The only way to effectively keep hair safe from the elements is to protect it from the get-go and treat it to some regular pampering. “Kérastase Aqua-Oleum is like a wet suit for your hair,” Garrison jokes of the lightweight nourishing oil that is the perfect prep for all pre-swimming activities. “Also, you should deep-condition with something like Sebastian Drench Deep Moisturizing Treatment once a week,” according to Garrison, who estimates that seven days is about as long as your strands can handle the seasonal abuse.

Photo: Mario Sorrenti for Vogue Paris, May 2010