64 posts tagged "Shiseido"
“I had an aunt who worked at the Shiseido counter in Hong Kong, and when she moved to the United States, she worked in San Francisco. I remember—and this was the eighties—that I was totally fascinated by how artistic her eyelids looked. There were probably four different colors and [all were] shaded. It was over the top, [especially] because my mother wore no makeup and was very simple and very clean. And this aunt, she was young and beautiful—it was definitely that whole era of excess. The big hair, the three-tone eyelid, the heavy contour—and that’s kind of fantastical.”
We pay homage to Lam’s childhood beauty memory with a look from his Spring 2010 show. And though his recent collaboration with Estée Lauder and Tom Pecheux is decidedly more muted, perhaps, according to our interview with the designer, more colorful things lie ahead.
The pro: Yosh, perfumer and founder of Yosh fragrances.
The product: “When I was about eleven or twelve, I went on a family holiday to Hawaii and came across a beautiful perfume from Shiseido: Hana-Sumire. The bottle was frosted with very little decoration—only two small kanji characters in white. It fit perfectly in my hands and had a heart-like shape. The scent was light yet deep, ethereal, and familiar. I remember opening the bottle and having this experience of recognizing the aroma. I’m almost certain it had iris in it, and perhaps violet, and probably sandalwood. The scent is kind of a perfume holy grail for me. I haven’t been able to find it since. I’ve tried [to locate it] with bottle and perfume experts both in the U.S. and Japan. I even went to the Shiseido Corporate Museum in Tokyo to see if anyone knew anything about it! It’s an illusive, yet indelible, scent memory. I have yet to come across any raw materials worthy of creating an homage to this iris scent, although every now and again, I think I might try.”
We already received word from hairstylist Guido Palau regarding the messy knots at Céline, but now face painter and Shiseido artistic director Dick Page sent us a full report on the graphic makeup:
“The Céline look was inspired by the energy of the clothes and the bold [hues] and slashes of black in the collection. Phoebe [Philo] sent me some inspiration images, and when we met to try out looks, we really went to town. There were thick, grease-painted brows; finger-paint swipes of color across the [lids]; and a few “surrealist illustrated eyes,” with curved, asymmetrical eyebrows and liner drawn on with Shiseido’s Automatic Fine Eyeliner. Clean skin, no mascara, liner, or lip color—just a freehand approach [to create] impulsive facial graffiti.”
The king of minimalism didn’t stray far from his roots this season when it came to hair and makeup (although the designer did display a new hem length on the runway). But behind the barely there maquillage was a study in both physiology and proportion, explained makeup pro Dick Page. “Rather than projecting the idea of painting the face, I thought about how everything is mobile and three-dimensional…it’s almost like when you do a life drawing in art class and have to think about structure.” For brows and lashes, he mixed three parts gel to one part brown mascara to achieve the optimal shade and texture. On lids, he blended Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Shoyu with a bit of moisturizer for a transparent finish, and applied the same shadow formula in Yuba to the inner corners to subtly catch the light. Page also concocted a custom shade of blush, with fairer girls receiving a ratio of two parts Lacquer Rouge in Metalrose (a reddish pink) to one part Hellebore (a plum), and used the same tones for darker complexions, only with the equation reversed. To apply, he pinched a cosmetic sponge to create a domed shape (seen above) that is optimal for working the product into the skin. A blend of foundation and Lacquer Rouge in Camel was tapped on to the lips for a muted effect.
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon kept things classic with what he described as an “old salon blow-dry.” He started by spritzing Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection from midlength down, and added Volumizing Mousse all the way through. Then Hanlon blew strands dry in large sections using big, round brushes. For a hint of sexiness and as an ode to the forties (a reference given to him by Rodriguez), he added a deep side part, hair-sprayed the top to cancel any flyaways, and used a drop or two of Treatment Light on the ends for separation. Simple, yet impactful—just like the collection.
The look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.
Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.
If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).