65 posts tagged "Shiseido"
Subtle—it’s a word we’ve often heard backstage at Narciso Rodriguez, and this season was no different. Inspired by an iridescent, gray-green paillette on a slipdress from the collection, makeup pro Dick Page added a flash of sheer pink or mint from the forthcoming Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Static to the inner corners and lightly along the upper and lower lash lines. “The interference pigments in the green reflect gold, and for the pink, they reflect red-violet,” he explained. Arches were filled in and lips were topped off with Lacquer Rouge in Viola, a rose-brown. “There are a lot of really bold color choices in the collection—I would have been happy to swipe one of those for the face—but it just seemed to make more sense with what we’re doing to keep it open and transparent.”
To create the “controlled” but not “board-like” hair, Paul Hanlon saturated the roots with CHI Volume Booster and the mid-lengths and ends with Silk Infusion, then blew them dry with a round brush. A flatiron was glided through to smooth out any kinks before a hairspray was misted section by section across the crown and brushed through with a bristle brush to form a “graphic line around the hairline,” Hanlon explained of the sleek, center-parted strands. The length was then tucked behind the ears before a wax was glossed over the surface for shine. “The formality of the hair and the brow gives the face the structure—the rest is just decoration,” Page said of the finished product.
“I had an aunt who worked at the Shiseido counter in Hong Kong, and when she moved to the United States, she worked in San Francisco. I remember—and this was the eighties—that I was totally fascinated by how artistic her eyelids looked. There were probably four different colors and [all were] shaded. It was over the top, [especially] because my mother wore no makeup and was very simple and very clean. And this aunt, she was young and beautiful—it was definitely that whole era of excess. The big hair, the three-tone eyelid, the heavy contour—and that’s kind of fantastical.”
We pay homage to Lam’s childhood beauty memory with a look from his Spring 2010 show. And though his recent collaboration with Estée Lauder and Tom Pecheux is decidedly more muted, perhaps, according to our interview with the designer, more colorful things lie ahead.
The pro: Yosh, perfumer and founder of Yosh fragrances.
The product: “When I was about eleven or twelve, I went on a family holiday to Hawaii and came across a beautiful perfume from Shiseido: Hana-Sumire. The bottle was frosted with very little decoration—only two small kanji characters in white. It fit perfectly in my hands and had a heart-like shape. The scent was light yet deep, ethereal, and familiar. I remember opening the bottle and having this experience of recognizing the aroma. I’m almost certain it had iris in it, and perhaps violet, and probably sandalwood. The scent is kind of a perfume holy grail for me. I haven’t been able to find it since. I’ve tried [to locate it] with bottle and perfume experts both in the U.S. and Japan. I even went to the Shiseido Corporate Museum in Tokyo to see if anyone knew anything about it! It’s an illusive, yet indelible, scent memory. I have yet to come across any raw materials worthy of creating an homage to this iris scent, although every now and again, I think I might try.”
We already received word from hairstylist Guido Palau regarding the messy knots at Céline, but now face painter and Shiseido artistic director Dick Page sent us a full report on the graphic makeup:
“The Céline look was inspired by the energy of the clothes and the bold [hues] and slashes of black in the collection. Phoebe [Philo] sent me some inspiration images, and when we met to try out looks, we really went to town. There were thick, grease-painted brows; finger-paint swipes of color across the [lids]; and a few “surrealist illustrated eyes,” with curved, asymmetrical eyebrows and liner drawn on with Shiseido’s Automatic Fine Eyeliner. Clean skin, no mascara, liner, or lip color—just a freehand approach [to create] impulsive facial graffiti.”
The king of minimalism didn’t stray far from his roots this season when it came to hair and makeup (although the designer did display a new hem length on the runway). But behind the barely there maquillage was a study in both physiology and proportion, explained makeup pro Dick Page. “Rather than projecting the idea of painting the face, I thought about how everything is mobile and three-dimensional…it’s almost like when you do a life drawing in art class and have to think about structure.” For brows and lashes, he mixed three parts gel to one part brown mascara to achieve the optimal shade and texture. On lids, he blended Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Shoyu with a bit of moisturizer for a transparent finish, and applied the same shadow formula in Yuba to the inner corners to subtly catch the light. Page also concocted a custom shade of blush, with fairer girls receiving a ratio of two parts Lacquer Rouge in Metalrose (a reddish pink) to one part Hellebore (a plum), and used the same tones for darker complexions, only with the equation reversed. To apply, he pinched a cosmetic sponge to create a domed shape (seen above) that is optimal for working the product into the skin. A blend of foundation and Lacquer Rouge in Camel was tapped on to the lips for a muted effect.
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon kept things classic with what he described as an “old salon blow-dry.” He started by spritzing Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection from midlength down, and added Volumizing Mousse all the way through. Then Hanlon blew strands dry in large sections using big, round brushes. For a hint of sexiness and as an ode to the forties (a reference given to him by Rodriguez), he added a deep side part, hair-sprayed the top to cancel any flyaways, and used a drop or two of Treatment Light on the ends for separation. Simple, yet impactful—just like the collection.