67 posts tagged "Shiseido"
We already received word from hairstylist Guido Palau regarding the messy knots at Céline, but now face painter and Shiseido artistic director Dick Page sent us a full report on the graphic makeup:
“The Céline look was inspired by the energy of the clothes and the bold [hues] and slashes of black in the collection. Phoebe [Philo] sent me some inspiration images, and when we met to try out looks, we really went to town. There were thick, grease-painted brows; finger-paint swipes of color across the [lids]; and a few “surrealist illustrated eyes,” with curved, asymmetrical eyebrows and liner drawn on with Shiseido’s Automatic Fine Eyeliner. Clean skin, no mascara, liner, or lip color—just a freehand approach [to create] impulsive facial graffiti.”
The king of minimalism didn’t stray far from his roots this season when it came to hair and makeup (although the designer did display a new hem length on the runway). But behind the barely there maquillage was a study in both physiology and proportion, explained makeup pro Dick Page. “Rather than projecting the idea of painting the face, I thought about how everything is mobile and three-dimensional…it’s almost like when you do a life drawing in art class and have to think about structure.” For brows and lashes, he mixed three parts gel to one part brown mascara to achieve the optimal shade and texture. On lids, he blended Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Shoyu with a bit of moisturizer for a transparent finish, and applied the same shadow formula in Yuba to the inner corners to subtly catch the light. Page also concocted a custom shade of blush, with fairer girls receiving a ratio of two parts Lacquer Rouge in Metalrose (a reddish pink) to one part Hellebore (a plum), and used the same tones for darker complexions, only with the equation reversed. To apply, he pinched a cosmetic sponge to create a domed shape (seen above) that is optimal for working the product into the skin. A blend of foundation and Lacquer Rouge in Camel was tapped on to the lips for a muted effect.
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon kept things classic with what he described as an “old salon blow-dry.” He started by spritzing Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection from midlength down, and added Volumizing Mousse all the way through. Then Hanlon blew strands dry in large sections using big, round brushes. For a hint of sexiness and as an ode to the forties (a reference given to him by Rodriguez), he added a deep side part, hair-sprayed the top to cancel any flyaways, and used a drop or two of Treatment Light on the ends for separation. Simple, yet impactful—just like the collection.
The look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.
Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.
If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).
Sleeping Easy; Shiseido’s New Antiaging Range for Millennials; and Marie Robinson’s Favorite Brunettes-------
Research conducted by Chanel revealed women don’t sleep as much—or as well—as they used to. Whether it’s insomnia or a jam-packed schedule that’s keeping you from getting enough zzz‘s, beauty companies and former beauty editors are coming up with new ways to fake a well-rested glow. If you toss and turn, onetime British Vogue beauty editor Kathy Phillips’ collection, This Works, could help. The range includes candles, sprays, and balms infused with lavender, chamomile, and vetiver, all of which naturally soothe restless sleepers. If a dull complexion is more your problem, Phillips’ upcoming night treatments—like No Wrinkles Midnight Moisture and No Wrinkles Tired Eyes—include hyaluronic acid, retinoids, and water-absorbent cactus flower to hydrate and plump your skin overnight.
They say it’s never too soon use antiaging products, and Shiseido is making it easier for millennials to get started. The company’s newest product line, Ibuki, targets women ages 25 to 34 and aims to combat the “typical” twentysomething lifestyle: lack of sleep, oily skin, visible pores after a night on the town, and poor nutrition. The line has seven products, all of which include Shiseido’s innovative PhytoResist Complex, which inhibits cell shrinkage and boosts moisture in surface cells with trehalose and white nettle. The collection is reasonably priced, ranging from $24 to $45, but if you’d rather give it a test run, a Starter Kit containing two-week supplies of the Gentle Cleanser, Softening Concentrate, and Refining Moisturizer goes for $25.
Who says blondes have more fun? Celebrity colorist Marie Robinson, whose clients include Michelle Williams, Natalie Portman, and Liv Tyler, says the color of the season is brown, but with a unique twist. “It’s about enhancing, not extremes,” she says. From Emma Watson’s shimmering beachy brown to Salma Hayek’s rich mahogany, Robinson narrowed down her list of favorite brunette celebs. The key, she says, is to stay within two shades of your natural color—and get a really good haircut, of course.
Beauty Nostalgia is a weekly column on Beauty Counter in which we ask influencers, tastemakers, and some of our favorite industry experts to wax poetic on the sticks, salves, and sprays that helped shape who they are today.
The Pro: Victoria Tsai, founder of Tatcha skincare
The Product: “Growing up in Texas, I worked in Vitativ, my mom’s beauty store in Houston, where we sold high-end skincare and cosmetics. My mother and I usually made our own skincare products, such as rice washes, for personal use, but I didn’t have real skin concerns at the time, so the specifics didn’t mean much to me. The cosmetics we sold, on the other hand, were my wonderland! I was a late bloomer, had an unfortunate perm, and was a bookish science nerd in a land of very blonde cheerleaders. Then, on one rainy afternoon when I was about 14, I discovered the most amazing Shiseido liquid eyeliner. It smelled like tar but glided on beautifully and dried down to a midnight black. As I experimented with the eyeliner, and a defined cat-eye, I instantly felt transformed and empowered by just a little flick of color, and I’ve been doing my eyes the same way ever since.”