5 posts tagged "Soul Lee"
The Quandary: I recently received a terrible brow job, but I still tipped the stylist out of guilt. Is it OK to not tip after a bad service? Should I explain if I don’t, or should I just ask to have it fixed somehow?
The Expert in Residence: Soul Lee, grooming specialist at Kiehl’s Spa 1851.
The Advice: “If you paid for the service and tipped your brow specialist even though you weren’t happy with the shape, you absolutely did the right thing. Standard tipping at a spa or brow studio is about 15 percent to 20 percent for good or great service, and even though you had a bad experience, the brow specialist booked the appointment and blocked out the time for you to take care of your needs. If you leave less than the standard tip, I think the specialist will get the message that you weren’t happy with the result.
“But to prevent an unsatisfactory result, always fully communicate with your brow specialist exactly what shape you are looking for before you begin. Bring inspiration photos if you need to, and talk to the specialist about what shape is best for you and how many hairs need to be removed for that shape. After the service, if you’re not happy with the result, you should definitely tell your specialist why you are not happy with the brows while you are still in the chair and give the specialist a chance to fix the problem before you pay. However, you should only go back to fix the problem if it can be fixed by plucking a few hairs or trimming to even out the thickness or balance the arch. If the brows are way over-plucked and beyond repair, do not go back to the same person. In this case, give your brows about a 30- to 60-day break from hair removal to allow the hairs to grow. You can fill in any sparse areas with brow powder or pencil. Then, to find a new specialist, ask friends or colleagues, or search online for a specialist with a good reputation. Make sure to find a specialist whom you can ask for a consultation while your brows are still growing out, so you can get advice and tips on how to grow them in properly. The specialist can tell you where you should let them grow and where you might be able to pluck, until you’re able to make the full appointment to reshape your brows. To further eliminate a bad brow job, remember that waxing and threading alone can be tricky and can result in over-plucked brows, so make sure you find a specialist who combines tweezing and trimming, or only tweezes and trims, to shape brows.”
Beauty Etiquetter is a new column on Beauty Counter in which we address your beauty protocol predicaments with candid advice from industry experts and those in-the-know. To submit a question, email celia firstname.lastname@example.org.
The Quandary: I want to try eyelash extensions but I’m somewhat intimidated by the menu of options—and myriad opportunity for mishaps. What should I ask for to get the most natural look?
The Expert in Residence: Soul Lee, eyebrow and eyelash specialist at Kiehl’s Spa 1851.
The Advice: “If you’re a first time client, it’s best to do a quick consultation ahead of time to discuss the look you want and to make sure you don’t have any reaction to the lash adhesive. It’s rare but happens sometimes. To create a natural effect—so it looks like you’re wearing mascara even when you’re not—your esthetician should mix about three or four different lash lengths on each lid. Doing all one length will definitely look fake. I like to start with an eight-millimeter length in the inner corners and then gradually increase tonine in the middle and ten or 11 at the outer corners. Also pay attention to the specific type of curl on the extension. A “J” shape is low and best if you have straight lashes while the “C” shape is more dramatic and better for who have a natural bend and don’t normally need to use an eyelash curler. As for the material, I always work with a blend of silk and synthetic extensions, which hold their shape well and have a medium weight. Mink lashes tend to be thinner and suited for those with very fine lashes. But keep in mind you’ll need to add a lot of mink lashes to build volume, so the cost will be higher.”
In case you’ve been cooped up in an overly air-conditioned New York office all day, let us loop you in on what’s going on outside: It’s hot—like, really, really hot. It’s days like today (97 degrees with 40 percent humidity) that the idea of applying makeup, mascara specifically, is simply confounding—which is presumably why eyelash extension appointments are booking up like mad right about now. “People want to do less—and this is so easy; you get up and you look great,” surmises Soul Lee, the recently named grooming specialist at Kiehl’s and one of the city’s first legit lash pros (Soul gave us our first eyelash extensions in the summer of ’08 and we’ve never looked back). Explaining that an influx of summer weddings is also contributing to the mad dash for lashes, Lee is quick to point out that there is a right and wrong way to add depth, density, and darkness to your lash line. Here, she breaks down the do’s and don’ts so you can get the best, most natural-looking flutter—and kiss your mascara tube goodbye until the summer swelter comes to end.
Don’t…Fear Synthetic Hairs
“A lot of places use mink lashes now, which look much thinner than the [silk and synthetic] ones I use so you don’t really get the volume that you want. If you have lashes that are really thin, the mink lashes stay on better. But glue has gotten better, it dries faster, and stays on longer, and silk and synthetic lashes hold a curl better.”
Do…Vary the Length of Your Lashes
“I used to see crazy extensions, but lashes from the other places are getting better. You need to make sure [your aesthetician] has an eye for beauty, though; if you don’t have that eye and you put the same length all the way around, it looks fake. It has to look like your natural lashes but better. I usually mix about 3-4 lash lengths depending on the size of your lashes. I usually try to make the outer corners stand out for a winged look. But if you have smaller eyes, ask for longer ones in the middle.”
Mothers may occasionally drive us batty (and can be more critical of our wardrobe choices than anyone else in our lives), but they tend to also be a pretty wise bunch—particularly when it comes to beauty matters. With Mother’s Day right around the corner (put your flower orders in now), we asked some of our favorite beauty insiders to share the wisdom, tips, tricks, and secrets their own maternal figures have passed along to them. The overlying advice? When in doubt, D.I.Y.
Pati Dubroff, Clarins celebrity beauty artist
“My mother always taught me not to forget the neck, the skin behind the ears and the chest when applying masks, face creams, even eye creams. Anything left on the fingertips goes beyond the face. Recently an actress who is my same age remarked that my neck was ‘holding up well,’ and I’m sure it’s a result of this practice.”
François Nars, founder of NARS Cosmetics
“Blush is one of my favorite products and it’s because my mother used to be so fond of it. She would never leave the house without it. And if she ever didn’t have blush on, she would pinch her cheeks. It always made her feel better.”
Alexandra Balahoutis, founder of Strange Invisible Perfumes
“My mother introduced me to authentic Turkish rosewater. She would always make sure I had a bottle and encouraged me to mist it on my face and hair. I don’t know if she even knew of the powerful antiaging components of rose, but I still use rosewater every day. And my great grandmother who lived to be 104 always told me to wash my face with buttermilk.”
Cynthia Chua, founder of Strip Ministry of Waxing
“One of the best things [my mom] has taught me is this wonderful remedy of myrrh oil for a mouth abrasion, which always works almost instantaneously. She also taught me to drink a glass of hot water infused with lemon first thing every morning to aid your liver in flushing out unwanted toxins from your body.”
Vincent Longo, makeup artist and founder of Vincent Longo cosmetics
“My grandmother always had the most beautiful-looking skin and gorgeous silver hair; it was long down to her buttocks and she would keep it braided and wrapped perfectly around her head. I remember how every morning before braiding it she would wash it and then comb a little almond oil through. She would then take an extra dab of almond oil and rub it over her face. To this day it’s my favorite product for my hair and skin and one of the only ones I always use!”
As readers of this blog already know, we are somewhat lash obsessed, and between its extensions services at Barneys courtesy of Soul Lee‘s masterful hands and its iconic 24-karat gold curler, no label gives us more bat for our buck than Shu Uemura. The seasonal offerings and designer collaborations that come from its Tokyo Lash Bar hold equal appeal, which is why a recent preview of what’s in store for fall has us all a-flutter. The new Lashes in Nature collection features exclusive designs from four Shu makeup masters: Gina Brooke (Madonna’s personal face painter), Kakuyasu Uchiide, Yuji Asano, and Mina Matsumura, who channeled flowers, forests, oceans, and the skies for nine different creations. Click here to peruse our picks, and remember: While they might not be everyday wear, there’s nothing wrong with breaking them out for special occasions—or to simply traipse around your apartment while taking occasional mirror breaks. To preorder your own pair, go to www.shu-uemura.com.