2 posts tagged "Spring 2013"
Last night, I sat down with Jason Wu to chat about his new 15-piece collection for Lancôme. There were rumors of a collaboration backstage at his Fall 2013 show, but now the designer finally divulges all the deets:
Out of all the beauty brands to choose from, why partner with Lancôme?
Lancôme makes some of the most luxurious and beautiful products in the world. I’ve made it no secret that I’m a beauty junkie and I love makeup. It’s always been such an important part of my shows, and I felt like this was a really natural progression for me.
The eye-shadow palettes are completely customized and the shades were chosen by you and are exclusive to your collection. Where did your inspiration for the colors come from?
My inspiration came from, literally, my career. I’ve always loved to use color in many different ways—sometimes subtle, sometimes really bold. I took a collection of my favorite colors and put them into makeup in a way that was wearable, sophisticated, and a statement all at the same time.
There’s a bit of a beauty backstory to the final look from your Fall 2013 show. Let’s talk about that.
We were still in development with the makeup during the last show, and the purple [now available in the Violet Streak palette] was one of the first colors [I chose]. It actually inspired the colors for my [Fall] collection, because we were thinking about using it on every girl’s eyelids. And I said: “Why don’t we put a purple dress at the end?” It just felt so right. Actually, incorporating the makeup colors into the palette of the collection was really interesting to me.
Why did you choose navy mascara over black?
Who doesn’t want navy mascara? Navy is a color that looks good on everyone, and I use it all the time [for my runway collections]. To me, it’s the chicer cousin to black. It just felt like something women would want and all the girls I work with will want. It’s a really interesting twist on a classic.
I noticed there are a lot of variations of red in the line—three crimson-colored lipsticks and three nail polishes.
For my first collection—my first of many collections—with Lancôme, I decided that I wanted to do the three basic reds that every woman should have in her arsenal: a bright red, a medium red, and a burgundy. [Red] is something that’s so glamorous, I had to make it for my collection.
When should you ideally wear each shade? Is it seasonal? Or is it more of a day-to-night concept?
Bright red is really good for spring/summer because…it’s just chic. And burgundy is a great wine color, so why wouldn’t you want it for fall/winter?
What about the shade in the middle?
There’s always a place for red lips! For that mood, and that mood, and every mood in between [points his finger three separate times] there’s a red. Wouldn’t you agree?
Definitely. Are you for wearing a bold lip and eye together?
I like to play up one feature, but I think it’s always about the balance. When you accentuate the lip, it’s about a more subtle eye. And when it’s a major eye, it’s about a subtle lip. I think balance is quite modern.
Which piece in the line are you most proud of?
That’s a hard one, but the navy mascara. I think it’s so special and Lancôme doesn’t [carry it in its existing range], so they dug it out of their archives to make it available for this collection.
I heard you designed two gorgeous lace makeup bags to hold all of your new cosmetics.
Oh, my God, it’s going to be so chic. We had a transparent lace raincoat in the Fall collection, and I thought it would be the perfect beauty bag, so it became one.
Will customers receive one when they buy your products?
Yes, and we vow for it to be the chicest gift-with-purchase you’ll ever see!
Who was your muse for the line?
Martha Hunt. She opened my show for Fall. She’s the only girl I asked to come with me tonight for this event. I felt like the second I met her she [became] one of my muses. She just wears makeup so incredibly well. In fact, she did the hair and makeup test for this collection and looked good in everything. I felt so comfortable with [Hunt] that we finalized the collection on her.
From all of your shows, do you have a favorite beauty look?
Yes, Spring 2013: the dual-toned red lip with a defined brow on Carolyn Murphy. Best thing ever. It’s so glamorous you can’t stand it. Who could resist that?
Where do you find the time between designing for your own label and acting as artistic director for Hugo Boss womenswear to create an entire range of makeup?
I try to sleep as little as possible. That’s the secret. I just really love what I do. I’m really passionate about it. I need to do things. I need to create all the time. That’s what keeps me going.
But there must be some caffeine in the mix. What’s your Starbucks order?
Iced black coffee. Nothing else. Very simple.
You always have a true look at your shows—it’s never a bare face. Do you know what you’re doing for Spring 2014?
I absolutely do and it involves this collection, but I’m not going to tell you what it is! But it’s going to be a statement. Expect another look.
I can’t wait.
Jason Wu for Lancôme launches in September exclusively at Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman.
On any given day, a front-row Salma Hayek sighting is something to write home about. But not when Kristen Stewart is seated across the catwalk. In the wake of a scandal that has dominated the pages of gossip rags over the past few months, the actress was in Paris this morning, paparazzi be damned, to support Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring Balenciaga collection. Stewart, who took in the show wearing a pale yellow motorcycle jacket and printed jeans, refers to Ghesquière as a “kindred spirit,” which is likely what has made the duo’s recent collaboration on Balenciaga’s Florabotanica fragrance such a compelling one. Inspired by the surrealist floral prints that colored his Fall 2011 collection, Ghesquière had duality on the brain when conceiving the brand’s new beauty offering, specifically the darker side of conventionally pretty blooms that are readily considered harmless. “Flowers can be carnivorous or venomous—contain poisons,” he points out, and it is that “mystery” that he was hoping to bottle.
If the elaborate fairy tale woven around the vetiver, amber, carnation, mint, and “experimental rose” flacon is to be believed, the floral essences used here were distilled from petalled plants that shot up from torn paper shards containing a reclusive designer’s sketches, which were embedded into hostile ground only to be found by a girl who had “the inspiration of a muse.” In the real-life version of the parable, of course, the designer (Ghesquière) met the muse (Stewart) on a shoot after the then 12-year-old starred in David Fincher’s Panic Room. “I had not forgotten her,” Ghesquière has said of Stewart, who boasts a beauty that is “pure and uncontrollable,” in his estimation—or in other words, very Balenciaga. Here, fresh off a press tour for her new movie On the Road and only a month away from the media frenzy that will be the conclusion of the Twilight saga, Stewart met up with Style.com to talk fragrance, front-row intimidation, and why Ghesquière’s Spring lineup may be her most favorite yet.
Up until now, Balenciaga’s only fragrance face has been Charlotte Gainsbourg. What’s it like to be in that kind of company?
I wish I could choose a better word, but I think she’s stunning. I sat next to her at the show [last season]—which was the first experience I had at Balenciaga—and I was so ridiculously intimidated by her! I didn’t even say hi. I was just kind of muted by her. It’s an odd relationship that us actors are allowed to have with fashion. For me it started at an extraordinarily young age. I met Nicolas [Ghesquière] when I was 12 [on] this little project that felt very similar to a photo shoot. A rack of clothes comes in and you can just pick out what’s from that company. [Balenciaga] was the first fashion brand I recognized.
Were you drawn to the clothes then?
I’ve never done anything tactfully. I just wanted to be around Nicolas. It’s like movies. You find kindred spirits. You say, “We need to make something together.” My creative vision is not clothes but…I want to be around that.
Nicolas has said that your “rebellious femininity” is what made you a good fit for Florabotanica. That characteristic seems to have followed you around a lot recently, especially in your work. Do you think it’s a pretty true character assessment?
Especially recently right now—maybe this is my age—you either have the boldness of heart or lack of fear that might differ from other people or you don’t. A true rebel, someone who is genuinely, authentically rebellious, has no idea that they’re doing it. It’s just natural. If you’re aware of it than you’re a contrived, fake person. Having Snow White [and the Huntsman] and On the Road—even Balenciaga—everyone is saying, “You’re taking on these strong roles,” and everyone is asking if I’m trying to convey these strong female roles. And objectively, yes, I am. But there’s also a void there right now and people want to fill it.
You’ve been wearing a lot of Balenciaga since joining the house officially. Have you had any favorite fashion moments with the line?
[Nicolas] made my Cannes dress. And I went to the Met ball with him. And we sat down together and I watched him draw this…thing. I think he would say that I had something to do with it, but that’s bullshit. I just sat there. I do love those graphic sweatshirts [from Fall 2012]. And the sheer long dresses—and the shoes! I love all of the shoes so much. I must say, I’ve seen the new [Spring] collection—and it’ so unbelievably cool. You need to know yourself pretty well to wear it, or it wears you. It makes total sense that it’s happening now, though. I don’t want this to sound arrogant, but it was made for me.