9 posts tagged "Spring fragrances"
To spritz or not to spritz, that is the question. Style.com/Arabia critic and perfume industry legend Luca Turin reviews the latest fragrance launches and answers this age-old question.
Name: Jour d’Hermès Absolu
Notes: Apricot blossom, jasmine, rose
Nomenclature: Transparent fruity
“The rise of ‘tea’ fragrances after Bulgari’s pathbreaking Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert [Jean-Claude Elléna, 1993] rested on the realization that tea permitted entirely novel perfumery effects. Tea has the mysterious superpower to turn, among others, bug repellent [Earl Grey] and bacon [Lapsang Souchong] into delicate, dignified flavors. Applied to perfumery, it allows you to repeat—almost at will, skill permitting—the miracle of CK One: a stonkingly powerful fragrance which comes across as light. Tea’s quality of dry transparency does it, and one of the first fragrances to fully exploit this—Eau Parfumée was still a little shy—was the much-maligned Tommy Girl, which was based on an analysis by the great Roman Kaiser of the fragrant air in the Mariage Frères tea store in Paris. Elléna has not slacked off since his initial discovery, and Jour d’Hermès Absolu is perhaps his best statement to date of this particular style. It starts off with a blast of grapefruit on an abstract apricot background, reminiscent of Guerlain’s Pamplelune but less blinding. When the citrus fades, Jour d’Hermès Absolu settles into a backlit, stained-glass version of what classic woody fragrances like Miss Balmain or Azurée [Lauder] did in oils. As usual with Elléna’s work, one marvels at the way he leads you by the nose through all the reveals, and it is fun to play it all in slower motion on paper. Unfortunately, whether for stylistic, regulatory, or budgetary reasons, the drydown is a bit bare and disappointing. Good stuff nonetheless.”
For another review from Turin’s bimonthly column, click here.
When it comes to ruling the runway and capturing the moment, no one does it quite like Karlie Kloss. The leggy catwalker snaps pics everywhere, from 30,000 feet (usually en route to some exotic shoot locale) to the Pacific Coast Highway with hair twin Taylor Swift. And while they have many an Angel in their arsenal, Victoria’s Secret selected the super to help relaunch its classic Heavenly fragrance tomorrow in Chicago. We’ll be there every step of the way, with Kloss documenting her day exclusively on Style.com’s Instagram account. What can we say, it’s a social media match made in heaven. Here, an exclusive peek at what’s to come.
“Like a haute couture garment, fragrance remains the exclusive domain of each woman who wears it, since it can never be exactly the same on any other,” noted Hubert de Givenchy. In honor of the designer’s olfactory philosophy, a new unisex collection of seven fragrances, L’Atelier de Givenchy, was developed using distinctive, precious ingredients. Each scent’s name highlights its most prominent element, combined with the essence of a haute couture look from the house’s rich archives. Chypre Caresse, for instance, is based on the sophistication of a pleated dress and smells of fresh greens with hints of lemon, jasmine, and patchouli. Néroli Originel references none other than Audrey Hepburn, the couturier’s first muse, and is evocative of her elegance and grace via a blend of neroli blossoms, iris, and vanilla. Striving to re-create the sensation of crisp leather on skin, Cuir Blanc merges sharp pepper and warm musk, while Ambre Tigré mirrors the passion and rebelliousness of a daring head-to-toe animal-print by combining the intensity of amber with the softness of vanilla and cistus labdanum. For those who don’t fall into the floral or fruity camps, Ylang Austral offers the perfect mix of both ylang-ylang and mandarin leaves. Oud Flamboyant, on the other hand, evokes the label’s decadent embroidery and sensuous fabrics by blending the precious wood resin with smoky leather elements. A bespoke Givenchy gown may be out of the question for most of us, but these tailor-made eaux that adapt to our body chemistry might just be the next best thing.
$220 each; available tomorrow at the exclusive L’Atelier de Givenchy fragrance boutique at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City.
With it being denim week at Style.com, we thought of no better time to delve into the beautifying properties of indigo, or Indigofera tinctoria (the original and natural source of blue dye). Here, we break down its benefits:
INDIGO (in-di-goh)/ (n.)/ 1./ Grown mainly in tropical and temperate parts of Asia and Africa, this plant (known scientifically as Indigofera tinctoria) was traditionally cultivated to be used as a coloring agent. The dye is crafted through a process that includes soaking the shrub’s leaves in water, fermenting them, mixing the resulting solution with sodium hydroxide, and pressing it into cakes to dry. / 2./ India was the major supplier and center for indigo in the Old World, often exporting it throughout the globe to locations like Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece, Peru, and Iran—where it was valued as a luxury product and often referred to as Blue Gold. / 3./ During the Edo Period in Japan when silk was outlawed, samurai wore indigo-dyed cotton underneath their armor to help heal injuries. / 4./ Farmers also rotate this legume through their fields to improve the soil. / 5./ Applied topically, this botanical contains two actives—tryptanthrin and indirubin—which can help relieve sensitive, inflamed, and dry skin; e.g., “Brighten your blue jeans or soothe a cranky complexion with indigo.”
Try it: Tatcha Indigo Soothing Renewal Treatment, $98, tatcha.com; or in scent form via Nest Indigo Eau de Parfum Spray (a blend of Moroccan tea, Kashmir wood, black cardamom, and bergamot), $65, sephora.com
Prada’s latest eau out next month, Candy Florale, revolves around an imaginary flower—its heart described as “a tender bouquet of cosmos.” And for the always-inventive Miuccia Prada, one would expect perfumer Daniela Andrier to go to the moon and back, bringing with her a bloom not of this earth as a souvenir. With a flair for the theatrics (illustrated by the house’s most recent menswear and ready-to-wear shows, separated into two acts) the brand called upon Steven Meisel and Léa Seydoux to bring the scent to life. The French darling plays the role of Candy, a bombshell with bangs who understands the power of seduction, and as exhibited by the brand’s last campaign for Candy L’Eau shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola, uses it to her full advantage—enchanting not one, but two men. In the latest ad, however, Seydoux appears sans suitors (or clothing, for that matter), floating among graphic, black-and-white flora. In response to working with Meisel, the actress said: “It was the first time that I’d worked on a film with someone who is essentially a photographer—it was a really interesting experience because Steven Meisel has such a precise vision of what he considers to be the perfect image.” Meisel’s in-the-buff interpretation calls to mind another fragrance and blond seductress: Marilyn Monroe famously stated that she wore nothing but Chanel No. 5 to bed, and we imagine Seydoux (donning Candy Florale, of course) does the same.