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July 25 2014

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3 posts tagged "Stella McCarntey"

Stella’s Girls Steal the Show—And the Key to Cara Delevingne’s Envy-Inducing Eye Makeup

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The Metropolitan Museum of Art's COSTUME INSTITUTE Benefit Celebrating the Opening of Charles James: Beyond Fashion and the Anna Wintour Costume Center - Red Carpet Arrivals

If there was one table you’d want to sit at tonight, it would likely be the one belonging to Stella McCartney. I like to think of her as the Regina George of the Met Gala (albeit a far less blond, way better dressed, and much nicer version at that). And with McCartney playing the role of queen bee, she naturally arrived at the museum with her gang of gorgeous plastics in tow, which included Cara Delevingne, Kate Bosworth, Reese Witherspoon, and Rihanna. But before they hit the red carpet, the primping party started in a balloon-filled suite at The Carlyle (complete with McCartney’s monogrammed undies), where makeup artist Vincent Oquendo was charged with readying the “ladies who wore the pants” tonight—McCartney and her Brit sidekick, Delevingne. “It was a girl party—Stella’s girls are fun girls,” said Oquendo. “I’ve done some red-carpet things before where you’re there and it’s like a hostage situation, and this was not that at all…Stella has good juju and it’s infectious.” While he kept things “dewy and pretty” for the designer with individual lashes, he created a smoky cat-eye accentuated by a full band of fringe for Delevingne (as if her arches weren’t already enough competition). For Rihanna, however, it was all about hair, “When she first walked [into the room] she had this gorgeous lion’s mane—it was just divine,” he noted. The guest list was certainly tight this year (likely to make room for all the Charles James-inspired ball gowns), but if you had actually made it through those storied doors, Oquendo assured me that you could indeed take a seat with Stella’s star-studded crew. (The dress code: On Mondays they wear white tie.)

Here, the step-by-step to Delevingne’s envy-inducing lid look:

1. Create the winged shape using a soft brown pencil, smudge, and set with matte, taupe shadow.

2. Next, run over the entire lid with a cream shadow, blending it up into the crease. (Oquendo applied Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Cocoa.) “You have to blend it quickly because it sets really fast, but once it sets it’s waterproof, so it’s perfect for the red carpet because it doesn’t move,” he explained. “The trick is to put something under it first because it doesn’t blend as beautifully as powders and pencils do.”

3. Pack a bronze pigment over the waterproof shadow to build depth. Try Laura Mercier Illuminating Eye Colour in Earth Glow.

4. For definition, trace along the inner rim of the eye with black, waterproof gel liner and go “full on” with the mascara—applying to both top and bottom lashes.

5. Place a full set of falsies on the upper lash line and use a lash curler to gently bond the faux fringe with your natural set. Apply another coat of mascara to finish.

6. For Delevingne-like brows, fill in and elongate your arches “just a touch” with a combo of soft, sheer powder (like MAC’s Omega Eye Shadow) and pencil (try Anastasia Brow Wiz in Medium Ash). “I always go cool on the eyebrows—especially if I use bronzey [shades] on the eye. I like the contrast to make the eyes pop in a subtle way.”

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Photo: Courtesy of BFAnyc.com; Instagram

“Fresh Girls With A Bit Of An Edge,” Backstage At Stella Resort

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Over the past few seasons, Stella McCartney has made a concerted effort to update the the “quintessential Stella girl’s” beauty routine, as makeup artist Pat McGrath endearingly refers to the natural, glowing, dewy skin she has been charged with giving models backstage at almost all of McCartney’s ready-to-wear collections to date. At her pre-fall show, McCartney requested a streak of electric blue eyeliner; for her Fall show, she stunned the crowd in Paris with bright blue mascara—a season highlight; and at her resort show yesterday in New York, the eyes still had it.

“It’s a fresh girl with a little bit of an edge,” makeup artist Jeanine Lobell surmised of the look of the day, which included McCartney’s signature “glowy” complexions thanks to a combination of Sunday Riley Juno Serum and its Tinted Primer. “Eyeliner is her thing,” Lobell continued of the archetype she was after, which necessitated a straight stroke of Riley’s Gel Pencil in Pitch Black that was scrawled below the lower lash line to offset the “healthy” flush Lobell buffed onto cheeks for a “cloud effect,” courtesy of a foundation brush dusted with Sunday Riley Blush in Blushing. Lids were neutralized with its Prisma Silk Eye Color in Rice Paper and Camille before lashes received a slick of its Mascara in Obsidian Black. As a finishing touch, Lobell treated lips to one of two Sunday Riley Lip Colors: Trench Coat, a taupey nude, which toned down any overt redness and Marie Antoinette, a dusty rose, that was painted onto pouts in need of a little color boost#8212;and resembled the custom-mixed Priti NYC nail lacquer in Fairy’s Petticoat that manicurist Eloise Lennen applied to fingertips in two coats.

Models’ hair was classic Stella, though. “[McCartney]” wanted a natural fall and a natural amount of volume,” hairstylist Tabitha Baker explained, middle parting a newly cropped Ruby Aldridge’s now chin-grazing locks, and setting freshly pressed waves with Aveda Air Control Hairspray. “She didn’t want to see any iron marks so we’re using brushes and our hands to break the waves up,” Baker continued, coating her palms with Arrojo Hair Cream to ensure that the hair had weight, “but still looked polished.”

Photo: Orrie King

Soft, Natural, And Powerful Beauty, Backstage At Stella McCartney

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Bold lips and smoky eyes don’t tend to make appearances at Stella McCartney’s shows. The designer is more likely to direct her hair and makeup teams to keep it natural, clean, and subdued. Yesterday’s Resort presentation in New York was no different, although Stella added another adjective—”powerful”—when talking makeup with face painter Luc Bouchard. “But in a natural way,” Bouchard clarified. After creating a base with MAC Cosmetics’ forthcoming Match Master foundation (“you can see through it!” he effused of the fall launch’s uncanny ability to provide translucent coverage), he scrawled a precise black cat eye onto models’ upper lash lines, using an angled brush dipped into MAC Chromaline in Black Black. A few lashings of its X Mascara and a light application of MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner in Petting Pink finished the face.

Hair was kept “soft and natural with a little bit of movement,” courtesy of Bumble and bumble stylist Travis Speck. “The texture isn’t too perfect or shiny,” Speck pointed out, coating strands with Bb Prep lotion and “a lot” of its Thickening Spray before spritzing a mist of Bb Surf Spray and rough-drying. To add a “bend, not a curl” to mid-lengths, Speck used a large-barrel curling iron and then fashioned an off-center middle part so that hair cascaded past models’ shoulders on each side.

Photo: Orrie King