Style.com

April 19 2014

styledotcom Who's who and what's what in American fashion: stylem.ag/1jKEXeh

Subscribe to Style Magazine
2 posts tagged "Stella McCarntey"

“Fresh Girls With A Bit Of An Edge,” Backstage At Stella Resort

-------


Over the past few seasons, Stella McCartney has made a concerted effort to update the the “quintessential Stella girl’s” beauty routine, as makeup artist Pat McGrath endearingly refers to the natural, glowing, dewy skin she has been charged with giving models backstage at almost all of McCartney’s ready-to-wear collections to date. At her pre-fall show, McCartney requested a streak of electric blue eyeliner; for her Fall show, she stunned the crowd in Paris with bright blue mascara—a season highlight; and at her resort show yesterday in New York, the eyes still had it.

“It’s a fresh girl with a little bit of an edge,” makeup artist Jeanine Lobell surmised of the look of the day, which included McCartney’s signature “glowy” complexions thanks to a combination of Sunday Riley Juno Serum and its Tinted Primer. “Eyeliner is her thing,” Lobell continued of the archetype she was after, which necessitated a straight stroke of Riley’s Gel Pencil in Pitch Black that was scrawled below the lower lash line to offset the “healthy” flush Lobell buffed onto cheeks for a “cloud effect,” courtesy of a foundation brush dusted with Sunday Riley Blush in Blushing. Lids were neutralized with its Prisma Silk Eye Color in Rice Paper and Camille before lashes received a slick of its Mascara in Obsidian Black. As a finishing touch, Lobell treated lips to one of two Sunday Riley Lip Colors: Trench Coat, a taupey nude, which toned down any overt redness and Marie Antoinette, a dusty rose, that was painted onto pouts in need of a little color boost#8212;and resembled the custom-mixed Priti NYC nail lacquer in Fairy’s Petticoat that manicurist Eloise Lennen applied to fingertips in two coats.

Models’ hair was classic Stella, though. “[McCartney]” wanted a natural fall and a natural amount of volume,” hairstylist Tabitha Baker explained, middle parting a newly cropped Ruby Aldridge’s now chin-grazing locks, and setting freshly pressed waves with Aveda Air Control Hairspray. “She didn’t want to see any iron marks so we’re using brushes and our hands to break the waves up,” Baker continued, coating her palms with Arrojo Hair Cream to ensure that the hair had weight, “but still looked polished.”

Photo: Orrie King

Soft, Natural, And Powerful Beauty, Backstage At Stella McCartney

-------

Bold lips and smoky eyes don’t tend to make appearances at Stella McCartney’s shows. The designer is more likely to direct her hair and makeup teams to keep it natural, clean, and subdued. Yesterday’s Resort presentation in New York was no different, although Stella added another adjective—”powerful”—when talking makeup with face painter Luc Bouchard. “But in a natural way,” Bouchard clarified. After creating a base with MAC Cosmetics’ forthcoming Match Master foundation (“you can see through it!” he effused of the fall launch’s uncanny ability to provide translucent coverage), he scrawled a precise black cat eye onto models’ upper lash lines, using an angled brush dipped into MAC Chromaline in Black Black. A few lashings of its X Mascara and a light application of MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner in Petting Pink finished the face.

Hair was kept “soft and natural with a little bit of movement,” courtesy of Bumble and bumble stylist Travis Speck. “The texture isn’t too perfect or shiny,” Speck pointed out, coating strands with Bb Prep lotion and “a lot” of its Thickening Spray before spritzing a mist of Bb Surf Spray and rough-drying. To add a “bend, not a curl” to mid-lengths, Speck used a large-barrel curling iron and then fashioned an off-center middle part so that hair cascaded past models’ shoulders on each side.

Photo: Orrie King