7 posts tagged "Stephane Marais"
Michelle Williams is Louis Vuitton’s Latest Siren; Lena Dunham Wigs Out; and One Direction’s New Cosmetics Line
This morning, WWD released images from Louis Vuitton’s latest accessories campaign, shot by Peter Lindbergh and starring new spokeswoman Michelle Williams. In her first major fashion endorsement since a Band of Outsiders gig several seasons ago, the A-lister sports an artfully mussed pixie cut by Sam McKnight and a siren red pout courtesy of Stéphane Marais.
Lena Dunham has been papped all over New York and Brooklyn while shooting season three of Girls. But she’s her own best advertisement, taking to Instagram to post a few selfies in wigs, accompanied by expectedly witty captions such as: “It’s 1973 and this aspiring backup singer is looking for love in all the wrong places” or “It’s 1984 and this club promoter (Ronnie) had to move back in with his ma.” Needless to say, the posts got their fair share of likes.
Teen pop sensation One Direction has teamed up with MUA Cosmetics on a range of products for UK beauty and health retailer Superdrug. The heartthrobs’ Little Things Collection will include lipsticks, lip polishes, cheek tints, and nail lacquers—in a range of colors and flavors. Harry Styles is reportedly a fan of the strawberry lip polish, while Louis Tomlinson is into vanilla.
Throwback Thursday is a new feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Nadja Auermann
The Moment: Ear painting
The Motivation: Following a few seasons of 3-D makeup on the runway that has seen everything from sequins, rhinestones, paper cutouts, lace, and tulle double as eyeliner, mascara, and brow pencils, we’ve been semi-conditioned to think outside the box when it comes to defining the medium of makeup. But Peter Philips further expanded on the traditional idea of “face painting” by bedazzling nine models’ ears backstage at Dries Van Noten for Fall. You could say an emphasis on ear embellishment started last season, when side-slicked hair turned up at Rodarte to show off Game of Thrones-inspired dragon cuffs—although Stéphane Marais might beg to differ. The famed makeup artist gave model Nadja Auermann the silver treatment two decades ago for a 1994 issue of Harper’s Bazaar. What’s that they say about fashion—and beauty—being cyclical?
When charged with the kind of daunting task that he was given last night at Jean Paul Gaultier, makeup artist Stephane Marais brings his usual product arsenal with him—as well as a few additions. “It’s like Ben Nye,” the makeup artist explained, name-dropping the popular American professional line when describing Maq Pro, a similarly conceived company based in Paris. “MAC Pro?” we asked, perplexed, knowing full well that a fairly large, internationally recognized face-painting operation already exists with that name. “Maq Pro with a Q. They make a lot of colors,” Marais elaborated of the brand founded by the famous French cinema makeup artist Michel Deruelle. Handing us its Fond de Teint complexion correcting stick, Marais explained that he planned to take a little artistic liberty with at least one model in Gaultier’s eighties tribute band. “I’m going to give her skin a blue-black tint,” he said, motioning to a tearsheet of Jean Paul Goude’s 1981 Blue-Black in Black on Brown portrait of Grace Jones in which the photographer gave his flat-topped muse indigo contours. “Only Ajak [gets it],” Marais said of Ajak Deng, one of five catwalkers to play Grace Jones on the runway. It made for a pretty cool show highlight—and as we managed to locate the Maq Pro boutique at 2 Ter rue Alasseur in Paris, it also provided us with another “extracurricular activity” (read: shopping excursion) to add to our schedule for the week.
There were seven Madonnas backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier, five Grace Joneses, four Boy Georges, seven David Bowies, three Annie Lennoxes, six Jane Birkins, four Abba members, and seven Sades—seven!—which all but cemented the fact that the eighties R&B songstress is having a moment at the Spring shows. “It’s a variety of eighties pop stars,” Guido Palau confirmed, prepping a sea of wigs for different characters while elaborate mood boards hung against the wall. “Sup-er!” a busting Gaultier chirped next to Palau as he examined Hannelore Knuts’ fire engine red Annie Lennox crop while Amanda Leer had her hair set in rollers for a bombshell blow-out (Leer, it should be noted, was playing herself). “I buy them in new York and Josh Wood colors them in London,” Palau explained of the elaborate hairpieces, pointing out that this particular Spring beauty moment was about Gaultier’s vision, not necessarily any one product—except, of course, Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray. “You can’t forget the hair spray if it’s the eighties,” Palau joked. Humor was on Stephane Marais’ mind, too. “It has to be lighter,” Marais said of Gaultier’s latest piece of performance art. “That’s the way this house functions.” He too was working off posters lined with tearsheets of a red-lipped Sade cover from Time and a Ziggy Stardust-era Bowie snap replete with aqua-rimmed eyes, among other things, turning out 11 different makeup looks in all—which included a few costume changes that kept stress levels at a high, although no one seemed to mind all that much. “The girls love it,” Marais pointed out. “They just have fun.”
“There’s no mental masturbation with me; it’s instinct,” Stéphane Marais said straight-faced backstage at Haider Ackermann this morning when asked about that purple lip. “It’s right for the collection,” Marais asserted, “and a refreshment from all the red you have seen”—which was not untrue. Reds, corals, and pinks we have seen this season; an iridescent violet mouth, not so much.
“It could have been a disaster, but it works,” he continued of the unusual pout color, which, it should be noted, did have a way about it: When we walked into the backstage area of Paris’ POPB on Boulevard de Bercy, we crossed paths with Irina Kravchenko, whose mouth flashed with an indigo sheen in the spotlights erected backstage. That was thanks to a finger-patting of MAC Pigment in Violet, which boasts flecks of blue and lavender shimmer. “The more you polish it, the more it shows,” Marais said of the powder that he was rubbing into a mix of MAC Chromagraphic Lip Pencil in Rich Purple and its Lipmix in Burgundy. What kept the striking shade from looking “ugly,” in Marais’ estimation, was that the rest of the face was kept pure. Skin was given a light treatment of MAC Face and Body Foundation, with a sweep of its luminescent Cream Colour Base in Shell across cheekbones, while eyes got a dusting of its Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk right at the lash line to create an almost wet effect. Ackermann wanted the brows to look “nervous,” so Marais obliged him by diminishing the natural arch with a line of MAC Eyeshadows in Coquette, Concrete, and Brun, creating a straight shape akin to “the wing of a bird,” according to Marais. “It’s very rock, but chic, chic, chic,” he surmised.
For his part, Wella global artistic director Eugene Souleiman set to fixing slicked-back coifs that segued into a ponytail that was folded over itself and tied into three different sections. “It’s sumo hair for women,” he explained, pointing out that the high-shine, abstract shape complimented Ackermann’s collection. “He makes women look very handsome,” Souleiman continued, while squashing Wella Texture Touch Reworkable Clay into roots and spritzing its Shimmer Delight Shine Spray through lengths for glisten. “I am a serious lover of this look,” the super stylist said. He most certainly wasn’t the only one.