August 31 2014

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The Lady Is a Vamp

-------‘s latest cover girl, Joan Smalls, arrived at last night’s Alvin Ailey opening-night gala in New York City sporting onyx-colored lipstick. (Similar to the tube MAC released in honor of Black Friday.) Her Instagram caption read, “Feeling a bit #emo tonight.” But paired with a thin line of cobalt liner along ultra-fluttery top lashes, Smalls’ look was more gorgeous than goth.

Photo: Instagram

Orange Crush: A Guide To Grimes’ Tangerine Hair In


For the Fall 2013 issue of, hairstylist Daniel Moon joined photographer Nick Haymes in Vancouver to coif electronic-music goddess Claire Boucher, a.k.a. Grimes. But he brought a whole lot more to the table when the idea of creating a custom color for the singer/producer/beats genius came up. “That’s one of my specialties,” he explains, “creating artistic pieces on people, using hyper-color.” Here, the Andy Lecompte Salon mainstay talks color “auras,” how to maintain the integrity of the hair even when copious amounts of bleach are involved, and why, as far as he’s concerned, hyper-color dye-jobs aren’t going anywhere anytime soon.

How did you guys decide to color Claire’s hair for her shoot?
“When we met originally, me and Nick mentioned the idea of coloring her hair, and we knew that she was kind of open to having multicolored hair. I create all of my own colors, and I look for a color for each person. You know how they say people have auras? I’m very sensitive to that. She said she’d maybe want to do something on the ends, but she really loved my hair—I have tangerine hair right now; it’s super tangerine, with bleached-out roots, sort of like a sunburst—and, you know, we connected. I love her work and seeing her in her videos. She’s exactly like that in person—very flowy, very happy. We chatted the whole two days of shooting.”

So you chose the color together, then?
“Yes, when it came to the orange, we chose that color. She was really scared of stripping the condition of her hair. But that’s a specialty of mine as well, as I do a lot of these hyper-colors. When it comes to this kind of coloring, it’s all about trust. If you can build trust, [clients] will be more open to doing colors like orange or the pastel army green we did on her ends. People usually over-process the hair to accomplish the lighter goal you need to accomplish the colors, but by being supersensitive to the hair and knowing which colors have the highest deposits on different levels of the blonde, you can maintain the integrity more. She was using Manic Panic black to put over the previous color she had, and it was a violet-based black, so her hair looked a little purple before we started. She didn’t want to use something permanent, so we used something that will come out in four weeks.”

What kind of steps do you typically take to make sure you’re being “supersensitive?”
“I take my time when it comes to stripping the hair. It could take up to six hours, but the whole process is worth it. The hair needs time to gradually pull the color out.”

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