3 posts tagged "Sylvie Ganter"
Beauty Etiquetter is a new column on Beauty Counter in which we address your beauty-protocol predicaments with candid advice from industry experts and those in the know. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ firstname.lastname@example.org.
The Quandary: I just read something about how Halle Berry applies her fragrance on her thighs, which I had never heard of. Is that commonplace? What’s the general rule of thumb for spritzing on a fragrance?
The Expert in Residence: Sylvie Ganter, founder of Atelier Cologne.
The Advice: “I always suggest to spray your pulse points, including your wrists, behind the ears, and even behind your knees—especially if you are wearing a skirt. Applying on your pulse points, the warmest parts of your body, allows for the perfect dry-down, so you will experience the freshness of the top notes, while the richness of the base notes lingers. If you want that very familiar scent to surround you all day long, spray the tips of your hair lightly. Every time you turn your head, you will be reminded of your scent of the day. I personallylike to spray my clothes if I’m wearing a sweater. Not only will the garment hold the scent throughout the day, but when I pick it up to wear itagain, it’s usually still there!”
Sylvie Ganter spent many years working in the perfume industry before debuting Atelier Cologne, a collection of five concentrated perfume waters that Ganter coined “colognes absolue.” With her latest launch, she takes on the acute challenge of re-imagining a note both beloved and maligned: vanilla. Unsurprisingly, considering her already impressive perfume compositions (our personal favorite, Trefle Pur, brings a bright, new freshness to feminine violet), Ganter’s vanilla shares little in common with other fragrances based around the sweet spice, which tend to be too cloying, too saccharine, or so gourmand it smells edible. As the name implies, Vanille Intensée is a bit revved-up—notes of lime, coriander, jasmine, oak moss, and vetiver give substance and structure to a rich Madagascar vanilla base, so it’s a darker, more sensual side of vanilla. A vanilla, that’s not so vanilla, if you will. (And we will).
When we met Sylvie Ganter for a bite on a recent afternoon, she was beaming. After years of working in the fragrance industry, her own line of scents was about to debut, marking the realization of a dream she seems to have had for, well, ever. “Twenty years,” she surmised when we asked her how long she’d been planning Atelier Cologne, her five-piece collection that bowed at Bergdorf Goodman this week. As a perfume executive, she cut her teeth at Hermès (where she served as vice president of the U.S. fragrance division) and held posts at Fresh and Selective Beauty, where she met Christophe Cervasel, the man who helped bring her unique idea to life. That idea was to take the concept of cologne—a lighter, less concentrated version of parfum, also known as “body splash” by the uncouth—and update it with rich concentrations of essential oils (12 to 18 percent, to be exact) that still managed to retain a level of carefree freshness. Ganter and Cervasel’s collective vision resulted in a new olfactory category they’ve termed Cologne Absolue. The initial offering comprises five unique scents, each of which has been devised in conjunction with a specific moment in time: Grand Néroli, for example, blends warm musks and vanilla with the sweet smell of orange flowers, which are frequently woven into hair wreaths and worn by brides on their wedding day in the South of France, where Ganter grew up. Other options include Orange Sanguine, a blood orange geranium eau; Bois Blonds, which combines soft woods, incense, and vetiver; Trèfle Pur, a violet scent sprinkled with green notes; and Oolang Infini, which features blue tea and bergamot offset by hints of smoke and leather. Spring freshness—until we can get it from the elusive season, we’ll happily take Ganter’s version.