19 posts tagged "Thakoon"
Blue eye makeup was a big hit on the Spring runways and it has already had a few standout showings for Fall too—with good reason, according to Diane Kendal. “Midnight blue gives off a winter feel,” the makeup artist explained backstage at Thakoon, where she was layering NARS Single Eyeshadow in Outremer, a deep indigo, with its new-for-Fall Eye Paint in Ubangi, a similar shade of cobalt that was given a shimmering blue accent with its Duo Eyeshadow in Marie Galante. “The collection has fur stoles, but it’s inspired by summer clothes,” Kendal said, referencing the dragonflies and dandelion prints that adorned the designer’s pieces. “We wanted to reflect that with the makeup.” To wit, she implemented a warm-weather beauty staple that has long gotten the youth vote: glitter. “I’m using three of them,” Kendal effused, applying a liquid set to hold the deep bronze flecks that were diffused toward the outer corner of the eye, while gold sparkles were dusted across the center of lids, and a pink shade was tapered inward. Nails were flecked with clear silver sparkles, courtesy of a single coat of Priti NYC’s Bristol Fairy. To finish the face, Kendal chose to skip lip color—as well as lash lacquer. “Sometimes when you put on mascara it can look old,” she surmised.
Odile Gilbert instituted her own fun and flirty element into an otherwise simple series of chignons via a graphic, micro fringe glued halfway across the hairline. “It’s like you have a little hat on the side of the head,” she said, coating roots with Kérastase Paris Resistance Ciment Thermique to create a sleek finish, as she tightly pulled hair back away from the face, revealing a gem-encrusted ear cuff worn by ten of the shows more elite catwalkers, including Aline Weber, Bo Don, and Xiao Wen.
Last season, we sat in on the creative process as Thakoon Panichgul and his crack team of beauty experts—that’s Odile Gilbert on hair and Diane Kendal on makeup—trouble-shot a few different looks before arriving at a keeper for the Fall show. This time around, success was immediate. “We got it on the first take,” a jubilant Gilbert confirmed backstage of the “strict, graphic” hair that stemmed from Panichgul’s Spring “garden, flowers, and birdcages” reference points.
“He brings to me, and I bring to him,” Gilbert continued of the idea sharing that helped her arrive at the collection’s dual-textured style. Starting with a generous application of Kérastase Elixir Ultime Imperial to get a glossy, conditioned quality, Gilbert center-parted hair, smoothing front panels behind ears and using a three-branch iron to create defined waves through the lengths. “When we love, we don’t count,” she said, translating a French-ism while slipping a haphazard number of black bobby pins across the back of the head in a half-circle pattern and gathering ends into a low-lying elastic.
“Fantasy” was the Thakoon directive that Kendal picked up on, a theme that was helped along by mood board images of Mia Farrow in The Great Gatsby. “That’s where the 1930s eyebrow came from,” she explained; ditto the sunken eyes and rosy flush. Dusting NARS’ new-for-spring Light-Reflecting Setting Powder over a freshly cleaned and spot-treated base, Kendal blended NARS’ forthcoming raspberry-hued Blush in Seduction onto models’ cheeks, lining lids with its Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Santa Monica Blvd and blending its Eyeshadow in Bali and Blondie across lids. As for those brows, it was important to Kendal that models’ natural arches were visible, “so your eye is drawn to the dark line,” which she drew on top of natural brows with NARS Eyebrow Pencils in either Jodphur or Mambo. “We wanted that eccentric quality,” she explained of why she chose not to bleach brows or glue them down—a quality the models certainly appreciated.
Marc Jacobs is in beauty takeover mode. First came this week’s announcement that the designer was creating a makeup collection in collaboration with Sephora, and now comes news that Jacobs has also been hard at work on a new fragrance franchise. Dot, as the red berry, honeysuckle, jasmine, coconut water, and vanilla scent is called, is Jacobs’ third “girl,” as he refers to his scent successes, which also include Lola and Daisy. [WWD]
Rihanna is planning to expand her growing perfume empire as well with a new men’s fragrance. “I’m working on a male scent,” the singer reveals. “But it will be unisex, because I love wearing men’s fragrances. You know how you love to smell like your boyfriend all day?” [Contact Music]
Following in the footsteps of Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung, Thakoon Panichgul has embarked on a nail polish collection in partnership with NARS Cosmetics. The six-piece color range will debut May 1 and was inspired by the vibrant colors of Indian spice markets. [NARS]
Harvard’s Harris Center just held its 15th annual “Health Is Beauty: Defining Ourselves” forum, which addresses issues pertaining to body image and the media. On this year’s expert panel: Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani and curvaceous model Doutzen Kroes—both of whom had interesting things to add to the conversation. Kroes, who says she’s been told to lose weight on numerous occasions, admits that even she has flaws. “I never say [what they are, though]. If I say it, people focus on it. Even my husband doesn’t know,” the Dutch beauty insists. For her part, Sozzani, who actively campaigns against “thinspiration” Web sites on her own magazine’s online outpost, thinks everyone owes it to themselves to “fight, day by day, to arrive where you want to arrive. It doesn’t mean to be too skinny or too fat, but feel curvy and sexy and happy.” [Huff Po]
Frequent readers of this blog are aware that we’ve moved on from our one-time obsession with nail art. When some of the fashion world’s biggest influencers signaled a backlash to all things glitter-encrusted, animal-printed, and the like at the Fall 2011 shows by popularizing a neutral nail palette, we were right on board with them, embracing the new-era nude manicure in all of its clean, fluid-silhouette glory. Hand designs and the like aren’t going down without a fight, though. “Nail art is not going away,” Deborah Lippmann confirmed yesterday at Donna Karan (more on that in a bit). But there seems to be a movement afoot backstage in New York, in which polish pioneers like Lippmann and Essie Weingarten are publicizing a new kind of nail art, a chicer nail art, a nail art for “a luxury woman,” according to Lippmann. What does that kind of nail art look like? It’s unadorned and simple, like the two coats of Deborah Lippmann Fashion, a mauve-y taupe, that the manicurist topped with a French tip of her burgundy Single Ladies for Karan’s show; the similarly styled mix of NARS Edelweiss, a sheer cream that nail artist Kim D’Amato topped with its Kata, an onyx, backstage at Thakoon, above; and the Japanese comic book-inspired “1/8 of a moon” of Essie Blanc, painted vertically and then topped with its Licorice, a dark black, and Chinchilly a warm gray. “It’s nail art in its most sophisticated form,” Weingarten surmised. We’d have to agree.
Behind The Makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
“I was really nostalgic for old, elegant New York. I just wanted to feel dressed up again,” Thakoon Panichgul said last weekend, explaining his Fall collection inspiration to his go-to glam squad of hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal as the group met up for the first time to discuss the beauty look for the season. And with that, each woman set to work turning his vision into reality, readying a few different hair and makeup options to try with the clothes. Gilbert went with “a modern, destroyed chignon,” treating hair with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and Double Force Hairspray to give it guts, before forming a top and bottom section. Creating a ponytail with the top half, she flipped the lengths over themselves and secured them, fashioning a short bang “as an homage to Audrey Hepburn.” Back-combing the bottom section, she made a twist that she then broke apart with her fingers, ensuring that the sides were very flat and the back was slightly disheveled. For her part, Kendal chose to zero in on the idea of a strong mouth that was “lady but eccentric.” Cue NARS Lipstick in Heatwave, a bright orange-red pigment that she topped with an electric pink powder to amp up the color and “make it more modern” with a matte finish. Needless to say, it was an easy sell. Panichgul greenlighted both looks, which made their way down the runway last night. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.