18 posts tagged "Thakoon"
When we arrived backstage at the Plaza Hotel for Thakoon’s Spring presentation, we caught Odile Gilbert blue-handed. The hairstylist was elbow deep in emulsified, colored clay powder. “You can eat it,” Gilbert said of the substance she brought with her from Paris, where the French frequently mix it with water to fight indigestion. But yesterday, it was being used as a reference to India’s Holi festival, when revelers throw pink powder in the air and all over one another to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. “Thakoon really wanted a touch of color in the hair, so we thought today was a very good day to have a Holi day,” Gilbert joked, applying the watered-down mixture in shades of pink as well as blue, green, terra-cotta, and lilac to two different styles, a double French braid and a faux bob. (Slightly apprehensive models were promised a good washing and reparative treatment following the presentation with Kérastase’s Nutritive Bain Satin line).
The Holi festival wasn’t the only idea on Thakoon’s mood board. “I got the cowboys,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designer’s other cultural reference point. To get the sunworn look of Wild West frontiersmen, Kendal set to work sketching strong brows and tinting lids using a collection of beige and brown NARS Eyeshadows in Bengali, Bali, and Blondie. But Marlboro man, this was not. “The girls still are supposed to look really pretty,” Kendal said. And they did thanks to a warm flush that the face painter brushed onto cheekbones using NARS Blush in Zen, a warm toasted almond, and its new spring shade, Gaiety, a rosy pink.
There was so much going on backstage at Thakoon, it’s hard to know where to begin. That’s what happens when you combine influences as far-flung as Marie Antoinette and the Masai. But we appreciated the overstimulation in a season that has, thus far, featured fairly tame hair and makeup. “It’s like knitting,” coiffing star Odile Gilbert said as she wove sections of the models’ hair over “wool materials” that had been taken directly from the collection. Prepping tresses with Kérastase Nutritive Nectar Thermique, Gilbert dried hair, slathering it with Kérastase Chroma Riche Fluide for shine before beginning a mixed-medium layering process that resulted in a basketweave beehive of chunky knits. A halo of Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime Hairspray kept everything in place, as models made their way over to fashion’s favorite colorist, Laurie Foley, who was busy bleaching brows. “I’m here to make them go away,” she said of models’ disappearing arches. “I’m not necessarily a proponent,” she opined of the lightening process, “but it’s a show thing, and a showoff thing. It lets them show off.” The them in question being Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal. And show off Kendal did, with a bright palette of orange, pink, and red eye shadows. “I thought about African sunsets,” Kendal explained, coating lids in NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Dragon Girl, a sheer red, to hold a mélange of NARS Eyeshadows in place, including Taj Mahal (a bright tangerine), Desire (a hot fuchsia), and Exhibit A (an electric cerise). Kendal laid off lashes and lips to keep the focus on the eye. “It’s fun,” she said of the finished look. And how.
Aside from a wealth of chignons and a vacillation between middle and deep side parts, another burgeoning hair trend we’ve been noticing this week is texture. Bumble and Bumble’s Laurent Philippon advocated for his “mix of the season” at Peter Som and Malandrino, saturating tresses with Bumble and Bumble’s Prep and its Surf Spray for matte separation, and at Thakoon, hairstylist Didier Malige headed in a similar direction. It wasn’t as textured as, say, the surfer girl look that he branded at Proenza Schouler for Spring 2010, but rather more of a “natural texture,” he said—with a “fairy element.” Less undone wave-rider, and more mercurial nymph, which Malige achieved using a hefty helping of Frédéric Fekkai’s Coiff Bouffant Lifting and Texturizing Spray Gel at the roots for a slight lift and its Océanique Tousled Wave Spray on the mid-lengths through the ends before diffusing with a blow-dryer. Makeup artist Diane Kendal was going for a similarly enchanted look. “It’s glowing from within,” she said of her face-painting technique, which focused on a strong eye, sculpted cheeks, and full brows. After contouring with NARS’ Laguna bronzer and a dusting of its Etrusque Single Eyeshadow—a gold pigment used to highlight around the cheekbones—Kendal directed her attention to the eyes, using a range of metallic gold and brown pigments that were layered on lids. NARS Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Hollywood Land, a cream-based pigment, was used to hold gilded shades from its Calanque Trio and Cordura Duo Eyeshadows, before brows were treated to a good filling-in courtesy of the brand’s eyeshadow in Bali. Perhaps most exciting to the lipstick lovers of the world—who’ve had plenty to gush over so far this season—was the nude pout Kendal built using Madere, a new shade of NARS’ popular Pure Matte Lipsticks, layered with Hopi—another new product from its forthcoming Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil collection. We’ll see you at the retail counter in February.
Over the past month, we’ve brought you the backstage scoop from New York, London, Milan, and Paris. While we try our best to get makeup artists and hairstylists to give us their “how to get this look at home” advice, there are certain things that are more translatable than others. You’re probably way more likely to try out a toned-down version of the brick red lip and shadowy eyes that Charlotte Tilbury offered at DKNY than, say, the silver/black makeup visors and chain-link nails that Alex Box showcased at Gareth Pugh. NARS Cosmetics understands the great divide between makeup for show and makeup for real, which is why it’s debuting a new collection of Runway, Real Way, NARS Way videos—right here on Style.com. The series of three vignettes illustrates how to reinterpret actual backstage looks from Marc Jacobs, Thakoon, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, using non-model types (women from the brand’s marketing department, in some cases) and extreme close-ups so you can really hone in on application technique and product placement. Even though François Nars’ handiwork at Marc Jacobs was “off” and “destroyed,” as he called it, you still may need some pointers to work it out for yourself. Click above to watch, and check out NARS’ YouTube page, where all three installments will be available for your viewing pleasure after today’s premiere.
At this stage of the game, most beauty-conscious folk are familiar with hair powder. The concept of putting spritzes of dry shampoo at your roots to absorb excess oil and prolong blow-outs has become a favorite of the primping and priming set. But coating your entire head with the stuff? Backstage at Thakoon yesterday, where spontaneous clouds of white billowed in the air, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman and his team did just that. “It’s talcum powder,” one of the coif masters on hand revealed as we watched him dress models’ hair with liberal squirts from gigantic old-school bottles, finger-combing it from the mid-lengths through the ends and setting it with a few shots of hot air. The age-old texturizing technique is pretty effective: Within minutes, clean, silky hair that had been given a slight wave with a curling iron for volume looked matte and piece-y—the perfect complement to the models’ strong brows, which makeup artist Diane Kendal sculpted using Nars eye shadows in Bali and Coconut Grove. To balance the dullness of the hair, Kendal worked the shine factor, coating models’ lids with Tzarine, Nars’ new shimmering eye-shadow duo for Fall. The effect managed to be both hard and pretty at the same time—a difficult line to skirt but well executed here.