20 posts tagged "Thakoon"
Behind The Makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
“I was really nostalgic for old, elegant New York. I just wanted to feel dressed up again,” Thakoon Panichgul said last weekend, explaining his Fall collection inspiration to his go-to glam squad of hairstylist Odile Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal as the group met up for the first time to discuss the beauty look for the season. And with that, each woman set to work turning his vision into reality, readying a few different hair and makeup options to try with the clothes. Gilbert went with “a modern, destroyed chignon,” treating hair with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and Double Force Hairspray to give it guts, before forming a top and bottom section. Creating a ponytail with the top half, she flipped the lengths over themselves and secured them, fashioning a short bang “as an homage to Audrey Hepburn.” Back-combing the bottom section, she made a twist that she then broke apart with her fingers, ensuring that the sides were very flat and the back was slightly disheveled. For her part, Kendal chose to zero in on the idea of a strong mouth that was “lady but eccentric.” Cue NARS Lipstick in Heatwave, a bright orange-red pigment that she topped with an electric pink powder to amp up the color and “make it more modern” with a matte finish. Needless to say, it was an easy sell. Panichgul greenlighted both looks, which made their way down the runway last night. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.
Pastel-tinged hair color just may be the beauty trend that won’t die. After Proenza Schouler showed lavender and mint green streaks at its Spring 2010 show, the hues have seen an endless stream of adaptations both on the runway and off. In addition to London’s famed Bleach salon and its ombré dip-dyeing technique’s arrival at Milk Studios during the Spring collections in New York, newfangled coloring techniques were spotted at Narciso Rodriguez via spray-on brights, and at Thakoon, where Odile Gilbert opted for colored clay that she watered down to create a paste. It’s trendy and fun—we get it. But the biggest draw to experimenting with off-kilter color as far as we’re concerned is that it’s temporary; unless you’re Charlotte Free, permanently neon pink hair is pretty tough to pull off. Australian haircare brand Kevin Murphy’s new Color Bugs offer up yet another way to have a noncommittal fling with eye-catching color. The super-opaque powder-filled pods are applied directly to hair, so you can do a streak or two if you’re color-shy or paint your entire head if you’re feeling particularly rebellious. The orange, purple, and pink pigments are meant to be applied to damp hair, and the kind of styling product you use determines the intensity level: Get a sheer cotton candy wash by prepping strands with styling spray, or go big with a dark mandarin by applying a cream or pomade. It’s sort of like that old Kool-Aid packet tinting trick, but, you know, way more sophisticated.
Kevin Murphy Color Bug, $20 each; visit www.kevinmurphy.com.au for salon locations.
When we arrived backstage at the Plaza Hotel for Thakoon’s Spring presentation, we caught Odile Gilbert blue-handed. The hairstylist was elbow deep in emulsified, colored clay powder. “You can eat it,” Gilbert said of the substance she brought with her from Paris, where the French frequently mix it with water to fight indigestion. But yesterday, it was being used as a reference to India’s Holi festival, when revelers throw pink powder in the air and all over one another to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. “Thakoon really wanted a touch of color in the hair, so we thought today was a very good day to have a Holi day,” Gilbert joked, applying the watered-down mixture in shades of pink as well as blue, green, terra-cotta, and lilac to two different styles, a double French braid and a faux bob. (Slightly apprehensive models were promised a good washing and reparative treatment following the presentation with Kérastase’s Nutritive Bain Satin line).
The Holi festival wasn’t the only idea on Thakoon’s mood board. “I got the cowboys,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designer’s other cultural reference point. To get the sunworn look of Wild West frontiersmen, Kendal set to work sketching strong brows and tinting lids using a collection of beige and brown NARS Eyeshadows in Bengali, Bali, and Blondie. But Marlboro man, this was not. “The girls still are supposed to look really pretty,” Kendal said. And they did thanks to a warm flush that the face painter brushed onto cheekbones using NARS Blush in Zen, a warm toasted almond, and its new spring shade, Gaiety, a rosy pink.
There was so much going on backstage at Thakoon, it’s hard to know where to begin. That’s what happens when you combine influences as far-flung as Marie Antoinette and the Masai. But we appreciated the overstimulation in a season that has, thus far, featured fairly tame hair and makeup. “It’s like knitting,” coiffing star Odile Gilbert said as she wove sections of the models’ hair over “wool materials” that had been taken directly from the collection. Prepping tresses with Kérastase Nutritive Nectar Thermique, Gilbert dried hair, slathering it with Kérastase Chroma Riche Fluide for shine before beginning a mixed-medium layering process that resulted in a basketweave beehive of chunky knits. A halo of Kérastase Double Force Controle Ultime Hairspray kept everything in place, as models made their way over to fashion’s favorite colorist, Laurie Foley, who was busy bleaching brows. “I’m here to make them go away,” she said of models’ disappearing arches. “I’m not necessarily a proponent,” she opined of the lightening process, “but it’s a show thing, and a showoff thing. It lets them show off.” The them in question being Gilbert and makeup artist Diane Kendal. And show off Kendal did, with a bright palette of orange, pink, and red eye shadows. “I thought about African sunsets,” Kendal explained, coating lids in NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Dragon Girl, a sheer red, to hold a mélange of NARS Eyeshadows in place, including Taj Mahal (a bright tangerine), Desire (a hot fuchsia), and Exhibit A (an electric cerise). Kendal laid off lashes and lips to keep the focus on the eye. “It’s fun,” she said of the finished look. And how.
Aside from a wealth of chignons and a vacillation between middle and deep side parts, another burgeoning hair trend we’ve been noticing this week is texture. Bumble and Bumble’s Laurent Philippon advocated for his “mix of the season” at Peter Som and Malandrino, saturating tresses with Bumble and Bumble’s Prep and its Surf Spray for matte separation, and at Thakoon, hairstylist Didier Malige headed in a similar direction. It wasn’t as textured as, say, the surfer girl look that he branded at Proenza Schouler for Spring 2010, but rather more of a “natural texture,” he said—with a “fairy element.” Less undone wave-rider, and more mercurial nymph, which Malige achieved using a hefty helping of Frédéric Fekkai’s Coiff Bouffant Lifting and Texturizing Spray Gel at the roots for a slight lift and its Océanique Tousled Wave Spray on the mid-lengths through the ends before diffusing with a blow-dryer. Makeup artist Diane Kendal was going for a similarly enchanted look. “It’s glowing from within,” she said of her face-painting technique, which focused on a strong eye, sculpted cheeks, and full brows. After contouring with NARS’ Laguna bronzer and a dusting of its Etrusque Single Eyeshadow—a gold pigment used to highlight around the cheekbones—Kendal directed her attention to the eyes, using a range of metallic gold and brown pigments that were layered on lids. NARS Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Hollywood Land, a cream-based pigment, was used to hold gilded shades from its Calanque Trio and Cordura Duo Eyeshadows, before brows were treated to a good filling-in courtesy of the brand’s eyeshadow in Bali. Perhaps most exciting to the lipstick lovers of the world—who’ve had plenty to gush over so far this season—was the nude pout Kendal built using Madere, a new shade of NARS’ popular Pure Matte Lipsticks, layered with Hopi—another new product from its forthcoming Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil collection. We’ll see you at the retail counter in February.