September 1 2014

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2 posts tagged "Theyskens’ Theory"

“Future Girls on Earth, Not Star Wars,” Backstage at Theyskens’ Theory


Last season, the beauty look at Olivier Theyskens’ Theory show was very much a reflection of him at the time. The designer had just sheared off his shoulder-length hair in favor of a chin-grazing crop, and hairstylist Odile Gilbert subsequently gave models the same cut via pastel-colored wigs. For Fall, Theyskens’ beauty team, which includes James Kaliardos on makeup and Jin Soon Choi on nails, was thinking more about Theyskens—and his woman—in the future.

“I’m a big futurist,” Kaliardos said backstage. “I like to think of a time when we can go to bed and get injected with vitamins and wake up feeling better—and looking like we have perfect skin,” he continued of the kind of makeup he was striving to achieve. Starting with a base of MAC Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Gel to fully hydrate the complexion, Kaliardos mixed its Prep + Prime Beauty Balm with its Face and Body Foundation in White for an ethereal glow. Contouring cheeks with is Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut—”So the girls look like they have overhead light on them at all times,” he joked—Kaliardos employed pink and peach pigments from MAC’s Concealer Palette to create a “plump-y, fleshy-y” effect. Lips were taken down with MAC Lip Erase before Kaliardos applied a few dabs of its Lipstick in Au Natural. Nails got a similarly clean, perfected treatment with one coat of Choi’s new eponymous lacquer in Tulle, a sheer cream, finished with two layers of glossy top coat.

Odile Gilbert was thinking similarly futuristic thoughts when she prepped strands with Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique Heat-Activated Reconstructor Milk and constructed severe center parts that segued into a “veil” of precisely straight flatironed locks. “We’re creating headbands with their own hair,” she said of front sections that had been tucked behind the ears and gathered into a ponytail at the nape of the neck before being covered with lengths. “It’s a future young girl on Earth,” she emphasized; “not Star Wars.

Photo: AP Photo/John Minchillo

Kristina S. Is Putting The Fade Back On Top


Despite a coveted gig opening Louis Vuitton in Paris last season, and a cameo on Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring couture runway, it’s safe to say that Croatian catwalker Kristina Salinovic has officially hit her stride for Fall. We spotted the relative newcomer backstage at Theyskens’ Theory, Anna Sui, Narciso Rodriguez, and, perhaps most notably, Oscar de la Renta, where her impressive fade stood out amid a sea of long-haired beauties. “Mario cuts it,” she said of the shaved-underneath, longer-on-the-top style, referring to her go to stylist, Mario Mesaric. But Salinovic has been playing with all manners of razors and peroxide bottles for the better part of four years. “I’m a hairdresser and hairdressers just do that,” she told us when we finally inquired about the crop last night at Anna Sui. She’s experimented with full-blonde styles, streaks, and more uniform spiky boy cuts, but her latest look is by far the most striking—and seems to be going over well with casting agents, too. “After my prom night I just cut it,” the 20-year-old recalls. “I was bored.” We can’t wait to see what she comes up with to fill the void during the short lull between Milan and Paris.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /