26 posts tagged "Thierry Mugler"
When asked to describe the chanteuse that is Joey Arias, the cabaret legend herself (or himself—deciding upon a pronoun poses a challenge) can sum it up it one word: seductive. Unlike many of the contestants on RuPaul’s Drag Race, Arias understands the art of “simplicity in makeup.” And when she uses the word simplicity, she doesn’t necessarily mean a dash of powder and lip balm (although that’s perfectly acceptable for day or a wedding). For stage, she contours (the last step of her maquillage method) but doesn’t take it as far as your regular drag queen. “I don’t put on any white and brown,” the two pigments typically employed to carve out cheekbones. Arias doesn’t do anything “clown-y,” either, although she would if it meant “getting paid.” Longtime collaborator Thierry Mugler gave the performer a piece of advice that still resonates, which Arias recalled during our interview: “If you’re going to do your own thing, just [put on a] black bra and panties. Don’t start putting all this shit on yourself. No pinks and greens and fluff and feathers. Please don’t do that!” With her perfectly articulated arches, razor-sharp liquid liner, and impeccable red lips, she’s like a forties film star, citing women like Joan Crawford and Marlene Dietrich as icons. Here, Arias shares some of her best beauty tips and how she continues the magic after the makeup comes off.
The scene: Cabaret lounge-meets-museum. Irving Plaza in Union Square is transformed by MAC Cosmetics to pay homage to Arias—with some of her most memorable ensembles on display, along with her new film directed by Mugler, Z Chromosome. A series of makeup wipes—some reminiscent of the Rorschach test—are also encased in glass in the middle of the room.
Can I first ask you about these makeup wipes? Was it your idea to turn them into art?
It started as a joke years ago. I think it started in Berlin. But it wasn’t until I did Cirque du Soleil Zumanity [Arias was the Las Vegas show's emcee for five years] that I was rushing to get out of the theater—after, like, two shows, I’d throw the wipe on the table and of course they would lay there, and I’d leave and come back and see these wipes and I’d think, Huh, what am I doing here? This is kind of something! So I started saving them and I’ve got probably like two or three thousand wipes now from Cirque du Soleil.
So you’ve been saving them since you hit the stage in Vegas?
Since 2003. Every time I do a show, we do the wipes. My partner, Juano Diaz, is a painter from Scotland. He had an art show in New York about two years ago. It was his art, and people wanted to meet him. And he asked me if I could throw up a little section of some art with him. Because, you know, I went to art school and everything. Juano, he got them and actually framed [the wipes] floating on glass…I had about ten of them among his paintings. I had a row, and it said, “MAC Wipes: Create Your Own Art.”
Is there a technique to how you take off your makeup?
It all depends on how you feel that night when you’re taking your makeup off. It might be a little aggressive or it might be gentle. Sometimes it’s like a rush. It all depends on how I want the eyes to come out, or do I want them to look like more of a mask, or do I want them to marry each other, do I want them to be more abstract like two people kissing or something from outer space? It all depends on how I rub the wipe. People are just blown away.
So what are your go-to MAC products that eventually end up on the wipes?
Well, the MAC wipes, for damn sure! I like their lipsticks and their shadows. All the shadows. I don’t really try too many colors because there’s a certain scheme. I’m not really always like, “Pink lips!” I’m a brand already, so I’ve got to stick to a look. In this video [Z Chromosome], I stretched out and did some different things—I was very Cirque du Soleil. Mugler wanted me to put red glitter on. That was for fun.
Which red are you wearing in the film?
It’s Russian Red with some black liner, and then I put the red glitter dust [on top].
Is the black for depth?
Yes, to give it a shape.
What’s the best beauty trick you ever learned?
One of the most beautiful makeup artists I’ve ever met is Mathu Andersen, who does all of RuPaul’s makeup, and he’s taught me a few tricks…Maybe only four or five makeup artists have [ever] done my makeup, but just the simplicity of makeup and shadowing—it takes time. You can’t rush. Keep it natural.
So you don’t necessarily contour like a Kardashian. What’s your technique?
Look at my cheekbones and just [see] how I want my face to move. On RuPaul’s Drag Race they put white. I just put a little base on, very light, and get a sponge and kind of wipe it off, and then powder to set everything down. Then I draw the eyes, eyebrows, lashes, lips, and then contour. Contour is last.
So Mugler suggests keeping it simple with just a black bra and panties. Is that all a girl needs?
Just a black bra and panties! And stockings. That’s it. Gotta keep it elegant, gotta keep it, as Mugler says, “Classy, classic, and cheap.”
What does your nighttime beauty routine entail?
Well, it all depends. If I’m going to do shows, I have to pace myself. And usually the shows I do now are about eight or nine, so it’s like, prepare, relax, gym, e-mails, feed our little dog Grumble, take a bath, start looking for an outfit, and then get ready.
How long does it take you to apply your makeup?
It could be anywhere from fifteen minutes to three hours.
What about taking it off?
That part takes about three seconds.
At least you’ve found a way to make your hard work stand the test of time with your wipe art. So what is the craziest, best night out you’ve ever had?
My craziest, best night out ever? I’ve got so many of them! But I would say in Paris, with Mugler, having dinner. There were about ten people—I’m not going to say the names. Mugler said, “We’re going to have dinner with Iman and her husband.” And I was kind of like, “OK!” And we were all there and all of a sudden they walked in, and I’m like, “Duh! David Bowie!” I sang with him on Saturday Night Live, so we saw each other a couple of times very briefly. He walked in and he had not seen me [since] I transformed, started dressing up, and we sat there for hours—hours—screaming and laughing, having the best time. It was amazing. And then we walked through Paris and David put his arm around me and said, “You really blossomed so beautifully. I’m so proud of you. You just moved on.” He said, “I wish you looked like this when we did Saturday Night Live!” He probably wouldn’t have worked with me if I did! We were laughing.
What were you wearing that night?
Oh, I was wearing a Mugler suit. Elegant. Very chic. Nothing crazy.
You recently got married—what kind of makeup did you wear on your wedding day?
Seriously, I wore just a powder.
No lashes or anything?
No, no. I just put powder on. Because it was daytime—it was like 7 in the morning. I just wore a black suit and powder…And beautiful black glasses—they’re called mantaray, so they looked very alien.
So no need even for mascara.
No, honey. You put the lashes on when you have a business meeting because that’s when you mean business.
Glitter, in all its shiny glory, keeps making an appearance on the runway. It ranges from delicate (like the “glamorous sand” sprinkled on lids at Jason Wu’s Spring 2014 show) to disco-worthy (such as the jumbo kind used at Chanel for Fall 2013). And hair hasn’t escaped the shiny stuff, either—wigs were laden with gold for Comme Des Garçons’ Fall 2011 collection. At an industry event last night celebrating Thierry Mugler’s newest fragrance, Alien Eau Extraordinaire (more on this later), models were streaked with sparkles from their foreheads to their necks. Paired with natural makeup, the finished product was nothing short of dazzling.
Flashback Fridays is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Emma Sjoberg
The Moment: Cyborg Headwear
The Motivation: Fashion and beauty aficionados have long been obsessed with the idea of a futuristic world (and what we would wear in it). And as we embark on yet another year, we were inspired by this heavy-metal Thierry Mugler ad from the late ’90s—and instantly reminded of the Tron-influenced silver and gold helmets seen at Alexander McQueen for Spring 2014. We don’t know what the future has in the store, but we hope it involves shiny headgear. Just think, no more bad hair days—ever.
First came collaborations with Nicki Minaj and Azealia Banks, now comes news that MAC has hooked an even bigger R&B superstar for its latest makeup partnership. That’d be Rihanna, who has created—count ’em—four color collections for her “RiRi [hearts] MAC” line due out this year. In a statement, the singing sensation called the deal a “no-brainer.” We’d have to agree. [WWD]
Breaking: Michelle Williams has said that she is finally ready to move on from the pixie cut that has been her signature since Heath Ledger’s death five years ago. “I think I’m ready. It’s on its way, slowly but surely,” the thirty-two-year-old actress says. “[The transition is] why I’ve stayed with short hair for so long. The mid-stage is insufferable. It’s really hard on your self-esteem.” [HuffPo]
Gentle micro-polishing, LED light facials, and a ban on carbs, salt, and caffeine are just a few of the ways Hollywood’s biggest stars are prepping their skin for Oscar Sunday. [Allure]
After days of no comment, Thierry Mugler has made moves that suggest it will, in fact, be dropping Oscar Pistorius from its A*Men fragrance spokesperson roster in light of the murder charges that have been brought against him. As of Tuesday, Mugler appeared to have removed Pistorius’ image from its Web site. [Guardian]
Thierry Mugler’s fragrances, not unlike Nicola Formichetti’s designs for the house he built, which just showed its Spring collection tonight in Paris, can be quite polarizing. Consider Angel: 1992′s breakout success story that became the gourmand upon which all other gourmands will forever be judged has achieved such cult status, many women the world over can be recognized simply by the caramel, chocolate, and patchouli aroma that precedes them. And that very quality—a scent so intense it quite literally wears you—is what deters an entire other group of perfume fiends from indulging in it. We’ve always felt similarly about Alien. Mugler’s transparent amber eau that’s heavy on the jasmine sambac, green notes, and vanilla has fans and foes in equal measure. And as much as we want to like the fragrance that his longtime olfactory consultant, Pierre Aulas, reportedly created for “the feminine Buddha,” it’s never smelled quite right on us. The flacon’s brand new Essence Absolue, however, is an entirely different story. Alien’s core amber and vanilla heart is still very much present in this latest iteration, albeit in different concentrations that are counterbalanced by two new ingredients: A heady dose of iris has been layered with the jasmine to downplay some of it’s more animalic tendencies, while a smoky, musky hint of myrrh builds out base notes that already include cashmeran woods. Don’t get the wrong idea: It’s still incredibly rich and unmistakably Mugler in its potency. But there’s something much more palatable about the sweet but still fresh eau—which is to say, it very much appeals to our palate.