103 posts tagged "Tom Pecheux"
“I had an aunt who worked at the Shiseido counter in Hong Kong, and when she moved to the United States, she worked in San Francisco. I remember—and this was the eighties—that I was totally fascinated by how artistic her eyelids looked. There were probably four different colors and [all were] shaded. It was over the top, [especially] because my mother wore no makeup and was very simple and very clean. And this aunt, she was young and beautiful—it was definitely that whole era of excess. The big hair, the three-tone eyelid, the heavy contour—and that’s kind of fantastical.”
We pay homage to Lam’s childhood beauty memory with a look from his Spring 2010 show. And though his recent collaboration with Estée Lauder and Tom Pecheux is decidedly more muted, perhaps, according to our interview with the designer, more colorful things lie ahead.
Derek Lam’s aesthetic is much like his approach to the culinary arts: “He doesn’t like to mix too many things,” said backstage fixture and creative makeup director of Estée Lauder, Tom Pecheux—the face painter with whom the designer has worked with since his very first show in 2004. “The flavors are very simple—he always starts with the quality of the ingredient,” he added. So when it came to creating a collection of cosmetics (out in January) with the storied beauty brand, it was only natural that Lam wouldn’t be launching an extensive line of products. “He’s not the kind of person that travels with three suitcases—Derek travels with a carry-on bag. My makeup bag is one bag. I believe that I can make anything you want with what I have,” quipped Pecheux. Taking that same approach, they packaged the five essentials the modern woman needs to complete her makeup “wardrobe” from day to night—a navy kajal crayon, gold cream shadow, black mascara, tawny liquid lipstick, and shimmery champagne gloss—into a blue satin minaudière. This same set of cosmetic tools was used to create the trio of buildable looks seen on the designer’s Spring 2014 runway. “We could have developed [an entire range], but that’s not Derek and that’s not me. I’d prefer to have the right product, than a lot,” he said. This dynamic duo seems to share the same brain, with one exception: “He likes to follow a recipe, and then afterwards, twist it. I never look at a recipe. I go to the market and see what there is. That’s why I never ask him what he’s working on, so I don’t have too many things floating around [in my head]. The makeup is always the cherry on the cake,” Pecheux explained. Here, I interviewed both designer and maquillage master separately—only to find that they were almost always on the exact same page:
What was your first reaction to Tom’s interpretation of “minimal” for your Spring show?
DL: My first reaction was “Terrific!” because I know that when I work with Tom, even when I say something simple, or if I say, “I just want it to be a no-makeup face,” he knows what I’m talking about. So when he came to me with the idea for the three looks, it was amazing because that’s exactly how I considered the evolution of the collection and how it was going to be shown on the runway. He picked up on one of the [prints], which in this case, was the check, and he reinterpreted it for the eye. Seeing one element, and kind of evolving it is also really what I do.
Do you also ascribe to his theory on blue? He’s said so many times that navy is so much less severe than black.
Oh yeah, absolutely. That’s again one of those things that we both share. I love navy for evening clothes. I just think it’s so flattering and welcoming. It’s also very understated, and in that way, [navy is] a little bit subversive. It’s got an unexpected quality.
If you had to choose, what is your favorite product in the collection?
DL: I love the eyeliner in Near Night…It’s the closest to my heart in terms of if you only had to have one product a beautifully outlined eye is always the thing to do.
TP: I do love the creamy eyeshadow in gold. It’s almost like a chic, luxurious nude color. It’s not too brown and works on every skin tone. The navy blue pencil is going to be your best friend, or your worst enemy, because it’s so stable it can be tough to take off!
What was your inspiration behind the clutch?
TP: I like a coffret. I used to be a smoker, but I quit. I thought the cigarette holder was really chic. Derek was very excited about it—but cigarettes are not necessarily good things to promote—so he thought about doing a clutch [instead].
DL: I always think [about] adding an element of glamour. She could have [this] little clutch in her tote or in her bag during the day…then [take it out] for the evening. I think that shows the romantic quality and how we view the collection [being incorporated] into a woman’s life. Doing it in a striped quilting is a play on something that’s [traditionally tied to] sportswear, but also translatable to evening.
Is there a beauty trend the Derek Lam woman would never try?
DL: I think that it’s anything that’s obvious. For the runway, we do add hair extensions, but we don’t do false eyelashes—it all stems from the idea of natural beauty.
TP: We’ve never used anything fake…fakeness is not part of our vocabulary.
Can you give me a sneak peek of what you have in mind for the beauty look for Fall?
TP: We never talk about his fashion. As much as we are friends and really adore working together, we rarely talk about business. Whatever he’s doing in February, I have no clue.
DL: Oh, it’s so soon, and now we’re in the midst of it! But I think that colors are so important. Last Fall, I did a very muted collection, and even Spring was relatively muted—with only the hit of bright yellow. I hope that when Tom sees the board we’ll get inspired and we can do something really exciting or unusual for the face.
I can’t wait to see what you both cook up come February.
Estée Lauder Derek Lam Collection, available January 2014 at esteelauder.com.
Alongside the plethora of colors used at many shows for Spring 2014 (Chanel, Céline, and Prada, to name just three), there were several designers that opted for a clean slate. (And no, I’m not talking about the bevy of “raw” hair and makeup looks that were also popular this season.) Instead, I’m referring to graphic bands of white drawn across models’ lids by Aaron de Mey at Kenzo, the alabaster pencil Tom Pecheux used instead of shadow (in order to “avoid flakes on the lashes”) to create a modern mod look at Ralph Lauren, and the combo of cream and powder he dusted on eyes at Altuzarra. Using the right tool to apply is also key to pulling off this color: For a subtle wash of white (as seen at Altuzarra), use a large, soft brush to blend, explained Pecheux. “If you use something very hard, [the color] is going to be very opaque and you will look like a panda,” he added. And while those rings might look adorable on cuddly bears, they definitely don’t have the same effect on people.
To see all of Spring’s top backstage trends, read our Beauty Moments feature.
Flashback Friday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Arizona Muse
The Moment: Tropical Punch
The Motivation: When I came across this photo of Arizona Muse by Patrick Demarchelier for British Vogue‘s February 2012 issue, I immediately longed for summer, or at the very least, a vacation in a warm, palm tree-laden destination. But aside from daydreams about jet-setting to an island that’s far sunnier than Manhattan at the present time, I noticed that Muse sported multiple Spring 2014 trends: pastel-blue shadow (seen at Miu Miu), along with bold lips (on display for the first time at Rag & Bone). And instead of being swirled on her apples, the blush was dusted low on her cheeks (a technique face painter Tom Pecheux employed at Marni). While I’m not one to wear color in more than one place, Muse certainly makes a case for breaking the makeup rules.
“It took longer to take my makeup off than it did to put it on,” Karlie Kloss said backstage at Balmain. Minimal was an understatement, as makeup artist Tom Pecheux applied concealer only where needed, curled the lashes, and dusted powder across the tops of foreheads to take down shine. He focused mainly on skin care—massaging a combination of Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Moisturizer and Revitalizing Supreme Crème into complexions, topping them off with Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher for a dewy finish. “We transformed the makeup room into a spa,” he said. Pecheux picked up his soft touch from several pros around the globe, including Tracie Martyn, Terri Lawton, and Loudna at Joël Ciocco in Paris. “There are three pressure points [we are hitting]: under the eyes, inner corners, and beginning of the brow bone,” the face painter explained. He added that without the pampering the makeup-less models would “give him shit.” However, I didn’t hear any complaints—as most girls seemed to be in a blissful state as they sat back and enjoyed a little TLC.
The hair was equally as easy and organic. Sam McKnight misted strands with water to coax out natural texture and applied Magic Move Light (a non-greasy pomade shipped in from Japan via a former assistant) to create a piece-y effect.” The clothes are so high-octane that the Balmain woman is confident enough not to need any artifice,” he said. For girls with frizzier textures, he held sections taut with his hands and blew them straight, using a blow-dryer. Models lucky enough to have a thick head of hair had the under layers braided and tucked away to eliminate the bulk. As for the total package, Pecheux summed it up quite succinctly: “The rawness of a supermodel is different than the rawness of a regular woman.” Well, that’s certainly the understatement of the season.