8 posts tagged "Toni & Guy"
Over fashion week you hear a fair amount of obscure references, but if there were an award for most random reference of the week, it would most certainly go to Vivienne Westwood Red Label. The inspiration behind the look this season was a mash-up of Marilyn Monroe’s classic beauty (the red lips and rosy cheeks) and Indiana Jones’ sense of adventure (the windblown-esque set). Makeup pro Val Garland employed her “one-stop shop,” in which the same products were used on both lips and cheeks. She mixed together MAC Lipmix in Red and Orange and stippled the blend onto cheeks with a duo-fiber brush, concentrating the pigment outside the apples. The same color cocktail was painted around the outer edges of the mouth, then smudged in toward the center and out past the natural lip line; this was meant to be a messed-up Marilyn, after all.
Toni&Guy’s Mark Hampton brought Indy and Marilyn to life with two styles: a classic fifties curl created with a medium-sized barrel iron, and a second style revolving around a more disheveled updo. In keeping with this dual personality, manicurist Marian Newman used two different polish shades from MAC: an off-black hue called Starry Skies (out Fall 2014) and Screaming Bright, a sheer gold. To continue the theme, Newman left the nail shape very natural and the edges slightly chipped. These girls are meant to have been on some sort of adventure—climbed a mountain, maybe—so their manicure should be short of perfect.
Mood boards abounded at the Marchesa hair and makeup test a few nights ago. There were at least four—covered nearly from floor-to-ceiling with inspiration photos and fabric swatches. While I can’t exactly tell you what was on them or what the Oscar-worthy dresses looked like (yet), I can share an interesting piece of news regarding a blooming partnership between a British beauty brand and the design house: Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe and Marchesa are teaming up for the next year to create head-to-toe looks not only for the runway, but for the many events where starlets sashay down the red carpet wearing the label’s gowns. It’s a natural fit, as—fun fact—Georgina Chapman’s first-ever modeling job was for Toni&Guy. Today’s show is the kickoff of the collaboration—global ambassador Mark Hampton will be on the job backstage alongside makeup artist Gucci Westman and nail pro Jin Soon. Seeing as Chapman allowed Hampton to give her son his very first haircut the evening of the test, I’d say an element of trust already exists in this newly formed relationship.
Get the full report here on Beauty Counter after the models hit the runway.
Apparently, Lulu Kennedy isn’t busy enough. Creative director of Lulu & Co, Fashion East founder, and Love magazine editor at large, Kennedy has now turned her attention to hair, collaborating with British haircare company Toni & Guy for its Hair Meet Wardrobe product line.
Launching at select Boots stores exclusively in the U.K. this month (though if you can’t exactly hop across the pond to get your hands on Lulu’s line, the 23-piece core collection is now available Stateside at Target), the move into styling products makes sense for Kennedy, who, like Toni & Guy, sees fashion as a complete package from the head down: “Hair is as important as an outfit—each has to work with the other,” she says, herself the owner of full head of glorious Pre-Raphaelite curls.
For this limited-edition range, Kennedy has given the Lulu treatment to the packaging of four “hero” products: Casual Sea Salt Texturising Spray, Classic Shine Gloss Serum, Creative Stick It Up Gum, and Glamour Volume Pumping Whip. Spots, stripes, and leopard print throughout provide an instant shot of East London cool to your bathroom shelves, and Kennedy tells us that she enjoyed the creative process: “I loved studying the products and giving them personalities and doing visual research. Then I worked with my graphics team—looking at retro [typefaces] and editing colors. It was similar to how we work at Lulu & Co and felt very much a fashion project as well as a beauty one. Without realizing it at the time, I pretty much managed to get all my favorite things into the one collection—everything from stripes, polka dots, fifties fonts, leopard, and cosmic stars. I like how the prints clash but [still] work; it’s sort of how I put an outfit together. Plus Toni & Guy gave me total freedom and encouraged me to do my thing—how cool is that?”
Considering the endless spells of dry heat, Australian summers typically beget beauty routines that mainly consist of sunblock and lashings of waterproof mascara; it’s no surprise, then, that fashion week Australia always runs the risk of favoring a “no makeup” makeup look over more complex trends. What we saw this week was anything but, however, thanks to a thriving creative spirit and the imported face-painting stylings of British makeup maverick Val Garland. “What I love about Australians is that they have no fear and are willing to give it a go. They’re very enthusiastic, and you feel like everyone is so happy to be here,” said Garland, who made a surprise cameo at the shows this season. Here, we round up the ten best backstage moments from the week that was.
Lisa Ho’s woman never lacks sensuality, and Val Garland gave it to her in spades, courtesy of a dark, lacquered lip—”Like an oil slick,” she said of the precise texture—and gloriously glossy skin. Bodies were given that quintessential Bondi glow with the cult-favorite gradual tanning product Summer by Beauty Department, while ghd hair director and session stylist Alan White added “a power element” to strands via a segmented hair parting and a dual texture that was accented with tinted extensions in midnight blue. By cutting the extensions two inches beneath models’ own hair, White aimed to “create chicness, not a color statement,” he explained.
Watson x Watson
If you were in the market for a true-blue Aussie beach experience, you didn’t need to look any further than Watson x Watson, Somer and Liberty Watson’s young upstart line. “It’s when you go to the beach and your hair soaks up the elements like salt and it grows in texture,” Redken hair director Philip Barwick explained of the saturated strands that were pulled back into a half-up bun. “The shape comes from when you get out of the water and brush it off your face and the ends of the hair are blown out and windy.” The makeup here was similarly summery, inspired by the pink zinc that was a popular staple for eighties-era teen queens. To prevent the look from becoming too juvenile, Maybelline artists added a touch of glamour via bronzed contours and a clean base.
We Are Handsome
“[It] references the relationship that Guy Bourdin and Charles Jourdan had,” stylist Jolyon Mason explained of the direction for the swimwear label’s presentation, which manifested itself into a preference for the photographer’s beloved jewel-toned smoky eyes, high-blush contours, and shiny red lips. Fluffy seventies disco hair and tanned limbs, courtesy of St. Tropez, rounded out the homage, which got a small dose of the here and now via crazy and colorful nail decals from Rock Beauty London.
Michael Lo Sordo
Michael Lo Sordo loves geometry. The designer (who was recently nominated as a finalist for the Australian Woolmark Prize) kept his hair-and-makeup look sleek, simple, and contoured for Spring but asked his face-painting team to add a few, er, points of interest: blue triangles were painted onto models’ temples to serve as “futuristic beauty spots,” rather than architectural cat-eyes, as was the case when a similar technique was employed backstage at Erdem for Fall 2012.
At first glance, the beauty look at Shakuhachi was a little Givenchy Spring 2012, but makeup artist Natasha Severino’s references had nothing to do with the underwater theme Riccardo Tisci honed three seasons ago. “My brief was ‘techno chic,’ ” she explained backstage. “There were a lot of metallics and prints in the collection, and the silhouettes were almost raver. We wanted something to offset the metallic fabrics and shoes, so we decided to go with a white pigment powder overlaid with a glitter.” To add a touch of “glitz,” Severino stuck a single Swarovski Crystal underneath the lower lash line to provide an “extra ping” as models walked down the runway.
When designing a hair concept for any given show, Paul Hanlon’s points of reference tend to be varied. But more often than not, they coalesce at the intersection of “an eighties-nineties grungy girl who has stepped from one decade to the next.” And so it was backstage at Giles for Spring, where the coiffing star set to channel his now signature “skinny hair,” which was equal parts disheveled and undone.
Finger-combing Toni & Guy Label M Matte Paste through a low side part for a rough-dried effect, Hanlon mixed its Blow Out Spray with a bit of Sea Salt Spray for additional texture. On thinner hair, he worked its Smoothing Cream through the ends, tying lengths into a small bun, which he then removed to reveal a subtle wave. “This is a girl who will wear a beautiful ball gown but then totally forget to do her hair, so it looks cool,” he surmised of the designer’s woman.
Lucia Pieroni kept things duly casual, pointing out that her stamped-on, matte fuchsia mouths and luminescent skin were meant to resemble “makeup you can do at home.” Massaging skin with MAC Complete Comfort Cream, the face painter added highlights along cheekbones and eyelids with MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna and Hush, so those areas reflected “like lightning bolts” on the runway. Keeping London’s Spring lipstick revival alive, Pieroni slicked on a layer of MAC Lipstick in Embrace Me, a hot pink, which she dabbed over a layer of foundation and then powdered to remove all traces of shine. Nails were painted a similar color while brows were bleached or brushed up depending on the model (blondes got the peroxide treatment while brunettes remained true to their roots). That part is less likely to occur in the comfort of our own apartment; everything else, however, seems entirely doable.