7 posts tagged "Ulyana Sergeenko"
“It’s a story of my native land, Kazakhstan, and the main character is a femme fatale who is traveling through all the former Soviet republics on the Orient Express, picking up things along the way. She’s very chic, she’s looking for adventure, and of course she’s looking for love,” said designer Ulyana Sergeenko backstage before her show. “As usual, I can only tell a personal tale.”
Pat McGrath and Orlando Pita spun that backstory into dramatic looks that touched on the past, like thirties-inspired smoky shadow and finger waves—and expounded on a multicultural aesthetic via dramatic, winged eyes and folkloric braids coiled at the nape of the neck. Pita said of the shellacked look: “We’re using lots of strong gel—we ran out of the Kiehl’s already. We’re also using L’Oréal Professionnel Homme Strong Hold Gel to make sure the waves really shine and stay put.”
The beauty direction for Ulyana Sergeenko‘s third Couture outing was heavily rooted in the notion of a fairy tale, a Russian one specifically, as it has been in seasons past. But for Fall, Sergeenko brought in a new team of backstage experts to bring the idea to life—literally. “She wanted the girls to look like Sleeping Beauty, like they’d just woken up out of a coffin,” Charlotte Tilbury explained of the “dreamy” skin that was kept purposefully pale and “dusty,” with a whisper of a rose-kissed flush courtesy of a blend of MAC Lipsticks in Ruby Woo and Sin. To make the eyes look as big as possible, the makeup artist turned her attention to a concentrated contouring effort, blending MAC Cream Colour Base in Groundwork, a creamy beige, through the socket and etching a thin black line along the upper lashes, which had been beefed up with additional individual strands for a “doll-like” quality. As an added effect, just before the show began, Tilbury painted a few dots of clear gloss below the inner corners of lids to give the illusion of teardrops, which caught the light as models walked the runway.
But that was only part of the makeup story. The other big news was a sneak preview of Tilbury’s own line, which launches in Europe this fall and was enjoying a test run during Couture week. She kept relatively mum about the specifics, showing off lab samples of an extra-emollient priming cream, a finely milled powder, and an “amazing” mascara, although the flame-haired face painter did give us one juicy detail: “It’s called Nude Kate,” she said of the lipstick she used on mouths, a pink-y beige color she developed for her friend and longtime client Kate Moss.
Orlando Pita was keeping things similarly interesting, busying himself with styling—and snipping. “I’m doing an Ulyana wig,” the hairstylist effused of the light brown hairpiece that he was actively cropping into a piece-y pixie cut for Jac to wear with the show’s closing look. “Otherwise, it’s a fishtail braid,” he explained of the show’s main hair design, which featured a center part and not one, but two different fishtail braids loosely plaited, one on top of the other, and then joined at the neck in a messy, free-form chignon. “I didn’t come here just to do a messy bun,” Pita joked of the elaborate, texturized style that was essentially meant to resemble couture bedhead—”how [Sleeping Beauty]‘s hair would be had her head been on a pillow.” It also happened to offer the perfect base for the alternating cloche-like hats and dangling forehead jewels that completed the elaborate fantasy.
Throwback Thursdays is a new feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Yfke Sturm
The Moment: Shorn Locks
The Motivation: While making the cut is nothing new (see Audrey Hepburn, Mia Farrow, Twiggy, etc.), it has quickly gained popularity in the past few months. From Karlie Kloss’ Fall bob and Edie Campbell’s black shag that inspired a runway’s worth of imitations at Marc Jacobs, to Ulyana Sergeenko’s Dior Couture homage pixie, we haven’t been hurting for chop-shop inspiration. But this 1999 Paris Vogue snap of model Yfke Sturm still jumped out at us. Something about the nineties-era Dutch stunner’s micro-fringe and razor-trimmed ends paired with her icy blond color and pastel lilac eye shadow is exciting in a whole new, old way. Save it in the binder of tearsheets you plan on taking with you to your stylist in the coming months.
Ulyana Sergeenko answered the question of how she would be dealing with the grow-out from the platinum-blonde dye job she debuted in January with a simple Instagram this afternoon—and then another courtesy of her fellow fashion comrade Elena Perminova. The answer: She wouldn’t. The Russian street-style-star-turned-designer is back to brunette after cutting off her flaxen strands entirely and embracing one of Guido Palau’s midcentury Dior Couture pixie cuts instead. And you know what? It looks great on her. The gamine look isn’t all that easy to pull off, but Sergeenko is managing it just fine, as far as we’re concerned. Add another one to the season’s short-hair handbook. Thoughts on her drastic trim?